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Post by bille on May 3, 2014 16:29:15 GMT -5
I'm having a hard time with my fuel/air mixture (I think). When I started it was because the scooter would start and idle perfectly, even revved just fine, but when I rode it if I gave it gas it would start to chock and stall out.
Now, *when* I can get it running, it stalls out after warming up.
I made a short video of what it's doing right now:
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Gear oil
by: bille - Apr 30, 2014 18:19:19 GMT -5
Post by bille on Apr 30, 2014 18:19:19 GMT -5
That's how it's done on my engine.
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Post by bille on Apr 30, 2014 17:54:06 GMT -5
It's been raining here for days and won't being stopping until friday so I will need to wait till then to see if the valve changes fixed the stalling. I will report back once I know.
Thanks to everyone for all the help!
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Post by bille on Apr 29, 2014 19:20:01 GMT -5
Wait one second, that hose you circled in blue, I traced it back and it goes to a different black cylinder that was hidden under the fuel tank. The line I can suck air on, also goes to that hidden black cylinder (I think it's a petcock?) after the T split.
So I have two black cylinders and one of them has nothing connected on one side and is where my air comes from.....
Does all of that make sense or do you need pictures/video of the lines?
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Post by bille on Apr 29, 2014 13:27:28 GMT -5
Has your bike backfired at all on de-accel? Vacuum leaks cause the bike to run extremely lean and will overheat the bike witch in turn makes metal expand and will quickly damage the piston ring and cylinder and make you bike run like its been owned for a year and oil gets dirty faster due to blowby. Check your spark to make sure its not on the verge of seizing. Ive had a bike that was too lean and I was going through plugs in a week and a half. They wouldn't die on my just the bike would run rough and eat more gas than usual. After a new plug I got a little faster accel and easier starts and quiet idles. No backfires. I made some videos to show better what I see: video 1 shows what I've done, the bike starting and idling fine. video 2 shows the engine revving during idling and spinning the tire, this happens a minute or two after I end video 1, I guess once the engine gets hot. video 3 attempts to show the factory spark plug I removed from it. |
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Post by bille on Apr 29, 2014 10:45:49 GMT -5
Yea, i'm pretty sure you have an air leak somewhere. take the tubes off the intake manifold one by one and suck on the to see if air is getting through. If it it is inspect and replace the hose. If not air is getting through, make sure your carb is fastened on the bike tightly and the manifold if secure and not cracked. The extra air should be making your spark plug lean, check it and its gunna be white. There are two hoses going into the intake manifold. If you are standing from the back of the bike facing the handlebars one is on the right one on the left. The one on the left (goes to a T which goes to the carb) I wasn't able to suck air. The one on the right (goes to a T which goes back towards the gas tank) I was able to suck air. I traced the right hose back and it goes to a black plastic cylinder thing with a bunch of hoses going into it. The reason I can suck air is because on the one side of it there are two hose connections without hoses. One of them is labeled "air drain" and if I cover them with my fingers I can no longer suck air. Is that how it's supposed to be or is something wrong there? |
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Post by bille on Apr 29, 2014 10:17:39 GMT -5
Yea, i'm pretty sure you have an air leak somewhere. take the tubes off the intake manifold one by one and suck on the to see if air is getting through. If it it is inspect and replace the hose. If not air is getting through, make sure your carb is fastened on the bike tightly and the manifold if secure and not cracked. The extra air should be making your spark plug lean, check it and its gunna be white. There are two hoses going into the intake manifold. If you are standing from the back of the bike facing the handlebars one is on the right one on the left. The one on the left (goes to a T which goes to the carb) I wasn't able to suck air. The one on the right (goes to a T which goes back towards the gas tank) I was able to suck air. |
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Post by bille on Apr 29, 2014 9:19:01 GMT -5
To eliminate the gas tank issue simply run it without the cap. If the gas level is low enough and there are no major cracks in the road you should be good spillage wise. If it runs good then drill a small hole in the gas cap for ventilation. On the other hand if your idle randomly increased you have a vacuum leak and air is gettin in somehow. I just ran it without the gas cap and it was pretty much the same thing, after it warmed up the back tire kept spinning and it sounds like it might be surging slightly. |
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Post by bille on Apr 29, 2014 8:56:23 GMT -5
If you hear the suction noise your tank could be sucking gas and not replacing it with air, and creating a vacuum inside the tank that is preventing gas from leaving the tank. Your valves could be the culprit too. Does it stall while riding? or only at stops? If its only at stops its your valves. Do you have to gas it a little to get it started? thats a siggn of your valves needing adjusting too. I would adjust both of the, to a a .004 where you can still get the .005 in with mild force. If the carb is adjusted adequately the bike should start within 1.5 secs cold and 1 secs hot, with electric starter or with 1 kick hot or cold. Or at least thats how I have all the bikes I've worked on trained. And that silver bar in front of the valve cover should be attached to the valve cover and bolted onto the head. Just unscrew it, it takes the same 8mm as the cover screws. When it stalls, while riding I feel the power bogging down, the bike starts to drop speed and as I stop it stalls. Right now I have the valves set to were you can get a .005 in with mild force. This morning, starting up cold, it would start right up then stall. It did this 3 or 4 times and then started up. After it warmed up, the back tire continued to spin. |
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Post by bille on Apr 28, 2014 22:42:06 GMT -5
It started right up. Idled fine for a couple of minutes, I didn't rev it because it's late and neighbors are sleeping. I will play with it more tomorrow. Thanks for all your help.
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Post by bille on Apr 28, 2014 21:53:48 GMT -5
ok, it took hours but I finally found the engine under all the trim pieces. I tried to take off the valve cover but there is a bar wielded in the way so the cover can't be taken completely off. But I was able to get it off enough to get to the screw. I couldn't get a 004 or 005 feeler into either valve, they were too tight. I loosened them both so I could get a 005 in and out, but it would drag. I also put a new autolite 4194 gauged at .032. Putting it all back together now to test it out. I will leave the trim off because I think I will need carb adjustments next but for now, lets make sure the bike still runs  |
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Post by bille on Apr 28, 2014 20:05:13 GMT -5
Sounds like a dead on fuel delivery problem. Sounds like your carb bowl is running dry, so either the tank is vapor locked(unscrew cap and here a suction noise) or your vacuum is weak. If its your tank idk, sorry never had this problem. If its a vacuum issue make sure the intake manifold is tightened and not cracked, check hoses for leaks. Take them off the manifold and suck on them and see if they leak air. If not no leak and its more than likely the tank problem. When I remove the gas cap I hear a suction noise...is that good or bad? |
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Post by bille on Apr 28, 2014 16:31:00 GMT -5
Which type of fuel should I put in a 2014 tao tao bws 150 with a gy6 150cc engine?
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Post by bille on Apr 28, 2014 11:41:06 GMT -5
I got the seat bucket out and found the gas line going from the fuel filter to the carb didn't have it's clamp on correctly. The line seemed to be connected fine without the clamp but I put the clamp back on.
I'm going to check the valves next, does anyone know what gauge the gap should be for the valves on a gy6 150cc? I did a quick google search and found answers of .003, .004 and .005.
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Post by bille on Apr 28, 2014 10:31:21 GMT -5
Here is something I just noticed, while it's idling on it's stand, the back wheel starts to spin for 5 seconds, then it slows down to a complete stop for 3 seconds, and then it keep repeating that over and over.
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