|
|
Post by JerryScript on Feb 16, 2015 19:31:09 GMT -5
The second number is a percentage of the first number, so the 70s are going to be a bit taller. If you have extra room under your fenders (or adjustable fenders, some scooters are adjustable), they will work. The important clearance to check is when you put all your weight on the front forks, you need to be sure you still have extra space for the larger tires with weight on them.
|
|
|
|
Post by JerryScript on Feb 14, 2015 21:12:10 GMT -5
A chain breaker is basically a small press. You can get simple ones for less than $10, or go all out and spend well over $100. Be sure it will fit the links!
|
|
|
|
Post by JerryScript on Feb 14, 2015 21:07:31 GMT -5
Simple method for finding a leak: Dry it off, then toss a very small amount of flour on it. Take it for a spin, come back and see where the leak is, then clean up the flour.
|
|
|
|
Post by JerryScript on Feb 14, 2015 10:19:47 GMT -5
A video is worth a thousand posts:
|
|
|
|
Post by JerryScript on Feb 14, 2015 3:14:10 GMT -5
That video showed that the largest carb tried was too much, a 30, the smaller carb is what gave the snappy response we all want.
|
|
|
|
Post by JerryScript on Feb 14, 2015 3:12:05 GMT -5
After installing my 50mm BBK with a  main, I also had a bit of bog taking off. For me, it was the needle clip needing to be raised. The other adjustment that may help is your accelerator pump, you may need to bend the "C" spring a little bit more to get a bit more pumped sooner. |
|
|
|
Post by JerryScript on Feb 13, 2015 16:53:25 GMT -5
I'll put a mock up together with sketchup when I have some time. I agree, pictures in this case are worth a thousand posts!
|
|
|
|
Post by JerryScript on Feb 12, 2015 23:56:56 GMT -5
I was thinking planar springs with a simple horizontal wedge driven assembly with connecting rods mounted forward of the front axle. This would tilt the assembly the opposite direction the wheel is turned, forcing the lean with the gyro's power. The planar springs would allow for wobble compensation. Not as high tech as these models, but I'm trying to keep it lower tech, less to fail. Is gyroscopic precession going to be a problem with that setup? I'm hoping the planar springs will smooth the transition out. What's needed is linkage that can use torque induced precession to mimic counter steering. |
|
|
|
Post by JerryScript on Feb 12, 2015 23:03:29 GMT -5
I'll be keeping it low tech, but in the end it's the same thing, I just have to read values instead of having the computer translate for me. An O2 sensor puts out a certain amount of voltage based on the amount of residual oxygen left in the exhaust stream. All that's needed is a volt meter to read the voltage, that's what I'll mount to take readings while riding visually. I think those O2 sensors do zero to one volt. Not sure. Depends on the particular sensor, but generally speaking that's true. It's not too difficult to find spec sheets for O2 sensor with the lambda values associated with voltage readings. |
|
|
|
Post by JerryScript on Feb 12, 2015 20:46:32 GMT -5
I was thinking planar springs with a simple horizontal wedge driven assembly with connecting rods mounted forward of the front axle. This would tilt the assembly the opposite direction the wheel is turned, forcing the lean with the gyro's power. The planar springs would allow for wobble compensation. Not as high tech as these models, but I'm trying to keep it lower tech, less to fail.
|
|
|
|
Post by JerryScript on Feb 12, 2015 19:23:47 GMT -5
I'll be keeping it low tech, but in the end it's the same thing, I just have to read values instead of having the computer translate for me. An O2 sensor puts out a certain amount of voltage based on the amount of residual oxygen left in the exhaust stream. All that's needed is a volt meter to read the voltage, that's what I'll mount to take readings while riding visually.
|
|
|
|
Post by JerryScript on Feb 12, 2015 13:34:31 GMT -5
Hey Jerry, all this talk of installing an oxygen sensor is very interesting. I am curious though what the benefit is to installing an O2 sensor on the scooter is. I know that on cars and trucks oxygen sensors, exhaust gas recirculation valves, charcoal canisters, catalytic converters and other such devices are installed for the purposes of emissions control. Here in Arizona, motorcycles and scooters are exempt from emissions requirements. Are you trying to make your scooter pass emissions requirements or is there a performance benefit? Thanks! Partially for performance, though I know I won't get much more, partially for the joy of experimentation. I'm a tinkerer, I build model stirling engines, so I like to figure things out to the smallest of details. What I really hope to investigate with an O2 sensor is the taper of the needle. One thing never discussed in scooter forums is how the taper may affect your mid range a/f mix. We have good methodology for testing idle and WOT mixes, but the mid-range where we ride our scooters most of the time (or should be), is harder to determine perfect settings for, and is primarily affected by the taper of the needle. Would be nice to know if the taper is set too lean as all other settings are, while it can be adjusted for with other settings, a proper taper would be best. |
|
|
|
Post by JerryScript on Feb 12, 2015 13:28:37 GMT -5
I don't take it past 50 due to the engine revving so high. I have already blown one spring seat on the stock head, and that was at 48mph. The fastest I ever took it was 56 downhill.
|
|
|
|
Post by JerryScript on Feb 12, 2015 11:18:32 GMT -5
I'm going to put in one more vote for a complete tear down and stuffing the parts anywhere possible. I just did a body teardown on my new scooter yesterday, one month in and time to double check all those bolts and fasteners. From there, it would have taken me another hour to tear her down to parts that could be stuff all over the place, with only the engine and frame needing any consideration. I still think you could strap the frame between the bikes on your bike carrier very easily and still be safe. Body plastics are stackable, and usually can be shoved in on top of everything else since they are so light, and if it's the scooter in your avatar, doesn't look like plastics are an issue anyway. Tires can be zip tied to the bicycle tires on your roof as well. This leaves the main engine/cvt assembly, and I'm sure you could find space for that somewhere.
I get attached to my rides too, which is why I'm trying to help your figure out a solution. Whatever you do, good luck with your new job, you'll love Taos! And enjoy the trip there with your friends!
|
|
|
|
Post by JerryScript on Feb 12, 2015 11:11:25 GMT -5
One of the things that motivates me here is my sister' height. She doesn't ride scooters because of her height. She has searched but not found a scooter with a thin enough floor board to allow her to have both feet on the ground when standing in front of the seat, so she cannot even do a speed hop to start without feeling like she is wrestling the ride. If she had a gyroscopic system in place good enough to depend on to keep the bike upright at stops, she would be enjoying the ride too!
Crazy secondary possibility, using the stored energy in the gyroscope to generate electricity to top off the battery after shut down.
|
|
main, I also had a bit of bog taking off. For me, it was the needle clip needing to be raised. 
