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Post by JerryScript on Feb 19, 2015 1:34:28 GMT -5
Two suggestions for mounting: 1- Find a small piece of metal to make a bracket out of, drill a hole for the mirror to screw through, then screw the mirror down through it. You can customize the piece of metal to your needs with a dremel. 2- Use velcro tape and mount it anywhere you like, if you don't like it, remove the tape and remount elsewhere, clean up with whatever goo-gone type remover you like.
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Post by JerryScript on Feb 19, 2015 1:28:22 GMT -5
Changing the rims is not a bad idea. I had an employee purchase a TaoTao, and he hit a bump and the front rim disintegrated, causing him to wreck of course, got a bit of road rash, and had to spend $350 to rebuild the front end. I've also had two other employees purchase TaoTaos, and they had no trouble with the rims at all. I imagine the employee with the bad rim probably had a casting flaw that allowed it to disintegrate like it did.
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Post by JerryScript on Feb 18, 2015 15:30:43 GMT -5
The group that pays the most attention to suspension issues is off road riders. They put a lot of strain on the forks, and those that do have fluid filled ones (most use nitrogen now days), measure the time between changes in hours of use. Most recommendations in forums for off road riders say 10-20 hours depending on how hard you ride. For scooters, it's best to change with your PDI (though most do not), then I would agree that 10k is a good idea, though I imagine if you change during initial PDI, you may be good for the life of the scooter if you are not abusive with hard stops and rough terrain.
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Post by JerryScript on Feb 17, 2015 15:33:06 GMT -5
I have two theories, but just theories. 1- it's a casting hole used to allow air to escape as liquid metal is poured in, 2- it's for an oil cooler option, there is no way we have seen all variants of the gy6 in the US, I would bet the farm there are dozens of other permutations in Asia and other places with different legal restrictions than the US.
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Post by JerryScript on Feb 17, 2015 14:07:27 GMT -5
You are not alone! Those screws are notorious for rusting from the inside out. I had to use a dremel to cut a line across one of mine in order to remove it, and that was on a brand new scooter just delivered.
A tip for filling your brakes without bleeding them:
Get a large syringe with a tube that fits the bleeder valve, you can find them at most auto parts and hardwares stores for various uses. Take the cover off the reservoir and put a towel around it to catch any fluid that squirts out. Put the syringe and tube onto the bleeder valve, then fill the syringe with brake fluid. Tap on the tube till every single bubble is gone, a vibrating tool placed against it may help if you have trouble, but you must get all the bubbles out before filling. Now loosen the bleeder valve, and VERY GENTLY squeeze the syringe, pushing the fluid from the bottom up till the reservoir is filled (requires a helper to watch, or something to hang the syringe on while you check the level). Once full, tighten the bleeder valve and replace the reservoir cover, and you are done, no need to bleed with this method!
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Post by JerryScript on Feb 16, 2015 21:55:35 GMT -5
Actually, we may just have to lock this thread. The simple fact is, you will not harm your scooter by running any of the various octane fuels offered for normal vehicles. If you want to spend a few extra cents, and that's what we are really talking about here when it comes to scooters and their tiny gas tanks, go ahead, I'm sure you won't go broke over it. Emotions are running way too high in this thread! Do you guys really want to continue to argue over what amounts to 5-10 cents when you are finished filling up? The cow is dead already!  |
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Post by JerryScript on Feb 16, 2015 21:47:42 GMT -5
I believe those tags are wrong due to the all too common mis-translation from Chinese to English. In China, and most of the rest of the world, octane is measured in RON, which is generally speaking 4-5 more than the US's AKI standards. So  RON = 86 AKI, meaning regular cheap US gasoline is what is actually recommended on those tags. |
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I'm Back !
by: JerryScript - Feb 16, 2015 21:37:04 GMT -5
Post by JerryScript on Feb 16, 2015 21:37:04 GMT -5
Wow, sounds like a rough road to recovery! But once you are, I know you'll enjoy the ride, so here's to a speedy final recovery!
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Post by JerryScript on Feb 16, 2015 21:31:57 GMT -5
alleyoop, I'm a bit confused, I didn't think the time when the needle/throttle rises had anything to do with speed, but only RPMs? If so, and your RPMs are rise significantly at takeoff, then the needle is rising before you reach speed?
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Post by JerryScript on Feb 16, 2015 20:21:27 GMT -5
Excuse me, I apologize, you didn't post the link, you only quoted the post of the link. I am sorry.  |
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Post by JerryScript on Feb 16, 2015 20:10:36 GMT -5
Did you not read the quote from the link YOU posted? Sorry alleyoop,   |
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Post by JerryScript on Feb 16, 2015 19:57:59 GMT -5
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Post by JerryScript on Feb 16, 2015 19:52:01 GMT -5
If the a/f screw helps when you lean it out (turning it clockwise), but you still get bog, then you need to either raise the needle by lowering the clip or adding washers as spacers, or you need to adjust the C spring on the accelerator pump, or you need to upjet your main jet.
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Post by JerryScript on Feb 16, 2015 19:49:19 GMT -5
Lower octane doesn't equal "dirty", lower octane is usually more pure than higher octane, higher octane usually has alcohol and other stuff (like detergents, stabilizers and the likes) added to the mix, alcohol is not good for our scoots since it can cause backfires, dirty piston cams, higher operational temperatures and premature components failure (like valves). Interesting reading here: www.nicoclub.com/archives/gasoline-octane-myths.htmlMost of the fuels here no matter what octane have all the additives and ethanol. Also the higher octane burns hotter which can help lower the build up caused by these fuels. Quoted from your link: "Unfortunately, this is where the myth of what gasoline’s octane rating really means creeps into the picture. Time and again, people will be told that high octane fuel burns cleaner or more completely, and that it will give them extra power and better fuel mileage than Regular octane gasoline because it contains more ‘energy.’ These blanket statements are simply not true. In fact, the octane rating for gasoline has nothing to do with the amount of power locked inside of it – it actually relates to just how much a fuel can be compressed before igniting. The higher the number, the less likely it is to ignite under pressure." |
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Post by JerryScript on Feb 16, 2015 19:44:54 GMT -5
Rather than take advice from "certified mechanics" (certified by who?), why not do a little research? How about taking some advice from the US Federal Trade Commission: www.consumer.ftc.gov/articles/0210-paying-premium-high-octane-gasolineExcerpts: What are octane ratings? Octane ratings measure a gasoline's ability to resist engine knock — a rattling or pinging sound that results from premature ignition of the compressed fuel-air mixture in one or more cylinders. What's the right octane level for your car (vehicle)? Check your owner's manual. Regular octane is recommended for most cars. However, some cars with high compression engines, like sports cars and certain luxury cars, need mid-grade or premium gasoline to prevent knocking. Will higher octane gasoline clean your engine better? No, as a rule, high octane gasoline doesn’t outperform regular octane in preventing engine deposits from forming, in removing them, or in cleaning your car's engine. In fact, the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency requires that all octane grades of all brands of gasoline contain engine cleaning detergent additives to protect against the build-up of harmful levels of engine deposits during the expected life of your car. Should you ever switch to a higher octane gasoline? A few car engines may knock or ping even if you use the recommended octane. If this happens, try switching to the next highest octane grade. In many cases, switching to the mid-grade or premium-grade gasoline will eliminate the knock. If the knocking or pinging continues after one or two fill-ups, you may need a tune-up or some other repair. After that work is done, go back to the lowest octane grade at which your engine runs without knocking. Bottom line: Scooters, even those with a BBK, are not high compression engines. I have never heard a scooter engine with octane related knocks or pings. All gasoline is required by the EPA to have cleaning agents regardless of the octane rating. Using high octane in your scooter will do nothing but make you spend a bit more money. If you do use it, fine, if you normally use it and get lower octane by accident, also fine. The only thing you may want to search for in your attempts to fill up is gasoline with no ethanol mixed in, it can gum up your carb if allowed to sit for a while. |
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RON = 86 AKI, meaning regular cheap US gasoline is what is actually recommended on those tags.
