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Post by JerryScript on Feb 21, 2015 21:24:42 GMT -5
This is your only warning guys, stop the personal attacks, offer help, or suffer the consequences!
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Post by JerryScript on Feb 21, 2015 21:20:59 GMT -5
Hello everybody I am very new to the Scoot world and I hope to learn all that I can for a better ride experience, I have a question about what I should start my JonWay 50cc Solana toolbox set off with. If anyone can provide a list of useful starter tools I would really appreciate it
Thank you
NC17
Hello, and welcome to the forums! Basic tools needed are (these will allow you to do  % of your maintenance): Screwdrivers flat head and cross tip Socket set from 8-17mm Open end wrenches from 7-14mm Allen wrench set Feeler gauges .03mm to .08mm Torque wrench Impact wrench (Harbor Freight has a 12v that is perfect to run off your battery) Zip ties, rags, long oil funnel, syringe with tube that fits brake bleeder valve, pumper oil can for tranny Advanced tools (pullers, leak down testers, case boring tool, vac gauges, etc for advanced maintenance): That's what this thread is about, so read above and add as you find something useful! |
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Post by JerryScript on Feb 21, 2015 18:54:42 GMT -5
I think some people took my use of the phrase "dirty diesel" to refer to all diesel, that was not my meaning. I was distinguishing between dirty diesel which I hate, and the newer clean diesel which I think is great. The problem is that many older "dirty" diesels are grandfathered into existing laws, the other issue I have is with those who modify their diesels to "roll coal". One of these modded diesels probably shoots out more pollutants in a few miles than my scooter will in it's lifetime.
For those who own clean diesel engines, I apologize if my statement roused your emotions!
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Post by JerryScript on Feb 21, 2015 16:35:04 GMT -5
It's all about how you twist the throttle at take off. If you only open it 1/4-1/2, then the main jet will not come into play unless your RPMs are winding real high due to your CVT tuning. If you go WOT at take off, and your engine RPMs go high, then it also comes into play early. This is the way many people treat these low power scooters in an attempt to maintain traffic speeds, no one wants cars honking at them!
If you have a powerful engine (BBKd) that doesn't require more than 1/4-1/2 throttle at take off with your CVT tuned for normal RPMs (not raising above 4-5k till you get above 20mph), then your needle/jet tuning will be different from most scooters.
Tuning a scooter requires balancing everything out. The CVT will affect your RPMs more than anything else, and that will determine how you tune your carb.
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Post by JerryScript on Feb 21, 2015 14:50:26 GMT -5
lain. Raising the needle leans the carb before the main jet kicks in. Try raising it one notch to see if the bogging at take off reduces. After raising it you may have to richen the fuel mixture screw a dat to balance the idel. But just a little. wouldn't raising it open up the jet a bit and allow fuel in earlier making it rich? Raising the needle does make it rich when the main jet comes into play, the a/f screw affects things all the time. To be sure we are using the same terms, raising the needle means lowering the clip on it, or adding washers as spacers to make it higher. This allows fuel to begin to come out of the main jet sooner. |
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Post by JerryScript on Feb 21, 2015 11:12:31 GMT -5
There is an oil pathway cut into the engine block and jug that goes through the guide pins. If you run your engine with the valve cover off, you'll see the oil coming up through the rocker arm assembly following the dowel rod path. Notice the picture posted above, the lower arrow he is pointing to the oil path that I'm speaking of. Here's a very good explanation of the oil system with detailed pictures: scooterdoc.proboards.com/post/50522/threadSo if you have gasket goop squeezing into these paths when you torque down your head, you will have issues! |
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Post by JerryScript on Feb 21, 2015 3:09:07 GMT -5
So long as they allow dirty diesels (not the newer "clean" ones, I don't know enough to speak about those), there is no way they can justify to me the need for emissions controls on a 150cc or less bike. Dirty diesel, especially those modified to pour soot on unsuspecting people, put out more pollution in one mile than my scooters will put out all month. I personally have a 1967 stepside for two reasons, I was born in '67, and you don't have to smog anything up to 1967 in Nevada!  |
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Post by JerryScript on Feb 20, 2015 17:16:08 GMT -5
The EPA is planning on doing monthly inspections of incoming engines due to spot check inspections finding over 700 engines that do not comply with emissions standards. While scooters are not specifically mentioned in the article, motorcycles are which may include scooters. I just hope this doesn't impact any of our trusted dealers getting their product in a timely manner, small businesses can be dramatically affected by actions such as these! www.latimes.com/local/la-me-customs-engines-20150220-story.html |
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Post by JerryScript on Feb 20, 2015 5:56:08 GMT -5
I would pull the head and check everything out. It's hard to determine what it is from that short video, but I'm still thinking it's a valve issue. I actually rode my 50cc with a broken valve seat for several months before I finally dropped the valve into the cylinder, leaving chatter marks across the top of my piston. In my case, the top of the valve stem had sheared off:  |
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Post by JerryScript on Feb 19, 2015 21:44:20 GMT -5
It may burn a bit of oil during break in, but it should not be a significant amount, and it should be checked often. Your customers are most likely not mechanics themselves, and checking the oil is the easiest and best thing for a non-mechanic to do during break-in. Give them written instructions telling them to check before every ride (CYA, even if they won't), and to check for oil level, color, and smell, with descriptions letting them know when it is indicating they should call you.
Break in periods should not hit WOT much if at all. The most important thing is to not go a single speed, which risks the rings setting in a bad position. You want up and down RPMs as much as possible during break-ing, and driving through neighborhoods is a great way to do it. The stop and start without opening it all the way up is perfect for getting the rings set well. CYA: tell them not to go WOT till they have 250 miles on it and a fresh oil change with no issues indicated.
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Post by JerryScript on Feb 19, 2015 11:06:01 GMT -5
Yes, you can damage the engine by riding with a bad exhaust leak. I would pull the head and see if the exhaust valve needs lapping or replacement. If you can get by with just lapping, do both valves while your at it.
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Post by JerryScript on Feb 19, 2015 10:35:27 GMT -5
I found it in an article about people having a bad day, but no details provided. I did a google image search, and same results, just lists of people having a bad day: Google Image Search |
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Post by JerryScript on Feb 19, 2015 3:08:09 GMT -5
Once again, just a theory, but I would bet a decent sum on it being a casting hole. They are used to allow air and metal to flow into every nook and cranny of the mold. Most end up as protrusions in the final casting that need to be ground off, that's why you see flat round indications on most castings where these protrusions have been removed, but some result in a hole that needs to be plugged.
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Post by JerryScript on Feb 19, 2015 2:38:46 GMT -5
I live in Vegas, and love the fact I can ride year round. Looks like some of my fellow riders up north at least attempt to do the same, but this poor rider got more than bargained for!  |
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Post by JerryScript on Feb 19, 2015 1:38:44 GMT -5
I had a similar problem last year, and like you spent several days attempting to track down a fuel issue. For me, it was the spark plug boot. I had installed one of those orange "performance" coil/boots, and it became loose on the plug. I put the stock coil/boot back on, and haven't had any issues since. I do not recommend those "performance" coil/boots, there have been a few threads in the forums about them being worthless (resistance too high, issues like mine, etc).
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% of your maintenance):
