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Post by JerryScript on Mar 22, 2015 11:31:16 GMT -5
The jug comes out of the engine, so if the piston is stuck in the jug, it should push the jug out. If you can't pull on the jug and get it out, then it sounds like the crank itself is frozen somehow, which requires splitting the case.
For now, put a bunch of penetrating oil into the cylinder on top of the piston and let it soak, then try to force it out with a rubber mallet.
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Post by JerryScript on Mar 22, 2015 2:58:39 GMT -5
Very nice looking scooter! I'll be curious to hear how that windshield works out, it looks like it's open underneath, so please let us know how well it protects you. Also curious to what you paid, if you don't mind telling us.
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Post by JerryScript on Mar 22, 2015 2:55:17 GMT -5
Right on, glad you figured it out! Now enjoy the ride!
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Post by JerryScript on Mar 21, 2015 13:50:43 GMT -5
R/R = regulator/rectifier, it regulates the voltage levels so you don't blow bulbs or overcharge the battery, and rectifies the current to DC.
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Post by JerryScript on Mar 21, 2015 1:01:44 GMT -5
Never seen a thicker head gasket, where did you order it from? What most of us do is add an extra base gasket, it's not as important as the head gasket, so it's fine to be doubled up.
High compression is not going to cause fuel to come out your muffler, that's virtually impossible. Now if you mean it came out the exhaust port, and you don't have your exhaust pipe attached, that would be the problem.
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Post by JerryScript on Mar 19, 2015 19:58:49 GMT -5
Doing 80mph on a maxi scooter would be OK. To go 100mph, I want to be on a motorcycle with taller wheels. I fully understand the desire to move up to something more powerful. I also have an equal desire to hotrod a nice two stroke 50cc scoot. While I don't imagine I'll ever hit 100 even on a long downhill, your reasoning is exactly why my new scooter has 16" wheels. My old 50cc with 10" wheels is great for around the neighborhood and short runs further out, but there is no comparison to the smooth ride you get with the larger wheels on my 150cc. If I was looking for something larger, it would definitely have at least 14" wheels. |
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Post by JerryScript on Mar 19, 2015 19:26:54 GMT -5
No it doesn't take any time to put a syringe on the bleeder valve, takes longer to remove the caliper. I can completely change the fluid with a syringe in 5 minutes flat, from starting to take off the plastics around the reservoir, to putting it all back together. And there is no need to bleed when filling with a syringe attached to the bleeder valve, it's a one step process.
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Post by JerryScript on Mar 19, 2015 19:23:57 GMT -5
It is normal for strands to be everywhere when a belt fails, especially at high speeds, that's par for the course.
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Post by JerryScript on Mar 19, 2015 8:27:00 GMT -5
If it wont start via electric start, and only by kickstart, it is not the CDI. It is most likely either the valves out of adjustment, or the plug boot is loose.
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Post by JerryScript on Mar 18, 2015 22:47:00 GMT -5
You may get around the amount you can sell so long as you are living somewhere that doesn't require registration of 50cc scooters. There is no limit to the number of bicycles you can sell, and scooters that don't require registration may fall into the same category.
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Post by JerryScript on Mar 18, 2015 22:44:25 GMT -5
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Post by JerryScript on Mar 18, 2015 22:43:46 GMT -5
If you replace the stock airbox, you are usually replacing it with a Uni type air filter. These allow a lot more air than the stock airbox does, which means you need to upjet your carb (no need for a larger carb), or restrict the air intake to prevent so much air from getting in.
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Post by JerryScript on Mar 18, 2015 15:46:50 GMT -5
Marine style cigarette adaptor, $8  |
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Post by JerryScript on Mar 18, 2015 12:02:43 GMT -5
The outer deadzone is determined by the balance of weights and springs, you can get more out of it with the appropriate tuning.
The inner deadzone is determined by the boss, you can mod it a bit, but I never had, so I'll let others talk to that.
The ramp angle is an important measurement, it affects the timing of RPM changes as much as balancing weights and belts will.
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Post by JerryScript on Mar 18, 2015 11:56:24 GMT -5
I have an air impact wrench that I never use. One of these days I should since I know it would make removing the variator, clutch & rear axle nuts quicker and much easier. BUT! I would not use it to tighten those nuts. I do have torque wrenches and use them. Doing repairs while out on the road could be complicated by not being able to remove an accidentally over tightened nut. And I have replaced a drive belt on one of my Reflex scooters while on a trip for camping in the Catskill Mountains of NY that required the removal of both the variator and clutch. (needed to make sure all the shredded bits were removed) I have always been able to remove nuts that were properly torqued with the wrenches/ratchets/sockets that I brought with me. No such guarantee if a nut were overtightened. I make several long distance rides on my scooters, so I try to make sure I can do repairs myself at the side of the road. That may not be as critical for those riding within easy retrieval distance of home. So whacking it off or thumping it on with an impact wrench might be OK for them. But I don't think I'll risk thread stripping, snapping bolts or being unable to loosen something while traveling..... But that's just me.  That's the whole point of the " 12v 1/2in Emergency Impact Wrench", I store it under my seat and have a cigarette lighter power adaptor so I can change a belt on the side of the road in less than 5 minutes flat! |
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