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Post by JerryScript on May 7, 2015 10:56:34 GMT -5
Did you test the rotor like I suggested?
Brakes will only pulse while squeezing if there is air or water contamination in the brake fluid, or if the rotor is improperly mounted or warped.
Note- I don't say this to offend you, but you will get better help around here if you post with complete sentences that fully explain the issue. Trying to figure out what's wrong while trying to interpret what you have posted is like trying to decipher hieroglyphics. We want to help you, so please help us understand what you are typing.
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Post by JerryScript on May 7, 2015 3:26:40 GMT -5
ATGATT!
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Post by JerryScript on May 6, 2015 23:57:20 GMT -5
To check the rotor, tape a marker to the fork so it just touches the rotor, turn the wheel and see if the line gets thicker or thinner or disappears in places. A long smooth line means it's not bent and there's no mounting issues at the hub.
Did you have the new tires balanced, or just mounted?
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Post by JerryScript on May 6, 2015 16:23:49 GMT -5
If thread tape doesn't hold it, you will need to use a thread insert like a heli coil. Be very careful when drilling to not get metal shavings inside, or you'll have to flush with gasoline (a good idea anyway).
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Post by JerryScript on May 6, 2015 10:19:34 GMT -5
You remove the curved pipe on the valve cover, and fabricate a cover for the hole it attached to on the lower left side of the head.
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Post by JerryScript on May 6, 2015 0:46:40 GMT -5
I agree with dmartin95. While removing the emissions crap will not improve performance enough to be noticeable, it does remove a lot of troubleshooting steps when you do have problems. Most people remove them when doing other performance upgrades. The stock emissions crap is designed and tuned for a stock engine. So adding a BBK, or switching to a uni air filter and large diameter exhaust header and up-jetting, or any other engine modifications will not be in tune with the stock emissions crap. If it's not in tune, then it's not truly able to perform its function, which makes it pointless.
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Post by JerryScript on May 4, 2015 4:33:38 GMT -5
I've had Speedo apps for years, I used them on my electric bike. I need a mount, not going 70 one handed on the roller coaster!
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Post by JerryScript on May 3, 2015 21:53:37 GMT -5
Just a quick update to confirm my stock top speed. It was a nice day for a ride, so I decided to cross the valley using the freeways. 35 miles each way, cruised consistently between 60-70, only dropping below 60 on one uphill stretch against the wind. Kept up with everyone except the fast lane, even passing a good number of vehicles. If anyone has driven on the through downtown Vegas, you know we call it the roller coaster due to the poor condition of the roads, you actually feel like your on an amusement park ride, pretty exciting in a cage, white knuckles on two wheels, especially if a gust of wind hits you when you are bouncing. Made it through both ways at 65-70, and only had one truly scary bump+wind. So, while its not radar confirmed, I know from riding these roads for 20+ years how fast everyone drives, and I'm confident my posted speeds are within a few mph of being dead on. I hope to install a BBK sometime this summer, hoping to have a bit more throttle response above 60, fingers crossed!
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Post by JerryScript on May 1, 2015 4:24:09 GMT -5
No need for a larger carb necessarily. What size main jet are you using, and did you up-jet when the BBK was installed?
A larger main jet and a needle clip adjustment should fix your bogging (assuming there are no air leaks).
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Post by JerryScript on Apr 29, 2015 9:37:08 GMT -5
Yep, riding means wrenching, something I learned 40 years ago and is still true today! You shouldn't need to go above on the main jet. Do plug chops, once you get a nice coffee brown plug ceramic, you are good to go. Please let us know about your projects, we all like to toss ideas around here, the more the merrier! And remember, above all else, enjoy the ride!
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Post by JerryScript on Apr 29, 2015 0:29:40 GMT -5
Welcome to the boards! You'll be fine with the stock exhaust. You can always drill a few holes in the end if you want to open it up a bit. I've kept the stock exhaust on my 50mm BBK, and have been happy with it for a year and a half. I did switch to a uni air filter, and use a main jet, needle clip lowered one notch to raise the needle a bit. Rather than an expensive performance exhaust, go to a muffler shop and see how much they would charge for a header with a larger inner diameter (ID). It's a short piece, and two welds (three if you have EGR), you might get it done cheap. Together with a drilled out exhaust, it would be better than a performance exhaust.
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Post by JerryScript on Apr 25, 2015 2:44:28 GMT -5
Good work! Glad to hear you and your wife had a good ride, that's what it's all about!
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Post by JerryScript on Apr 24, 2015 17:22:34 GMT -5
You adjust the slack with the two nuts that hold the throttle cable to the carb. Tighten till there is 1/4" if play in the throttle handle, then tighten the retaining nut.
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Post by JerryScript on Apr 24, 2015 13:46:40 GMT -5
I imagine they test these engines with a very strong power supply, probably not the weak battery they ship with. Together with the valves fully seating and naturally tightening up during first run, this could lead to over tightened valves still starting and passing QC.
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80cc bbk help
by: JerryScript - Apr 24, 2015 13:41:28 GMT -5
via mobile
lain likes this
Post by JerryScript on Apr 24, 2015 13:41:28 GMT -5
You ran well at speed on your test ride because the low pilot jet and high main jet combined for a decent mix. Switching to a larger pilot and smaller main should fix your starting issues, and still provide good mix at speed. You may need to adjust the needle height to fine tune it, that is the final step (usually only needed if you experience bogging during acceleration).
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