|
|
Post by JerryScript on Jul 16, 2015 21:44:31 GMT -5
I do it every 1000 miles. I believe the manual states every 3500 miles, but I'm not certain.
|
|
|
|
Post by JerryScript on Jul 16, 2015 12:00:04 GMT -5
It is a vent tube. I have one on my 50cc as well.
|
|
|
|
Post by JerryScript on Jul 15, 2015 14:50:24 GMT -5
I discovered it's my switch as well. If i only pull it in 1/3 it works!
|
|
|
|
Post by JerryScript on Jul 13, 2015 22:29:01 GMT -5
I just think it's the easiest to rule out. It's simple to remove the plug and insert the tester, allowing you to quickly determine if compression is an issue. Tuning the CVT is one of the best things you can do to get your scooter to ride the way you like, but it is time consuming, and has to be done on a properly working engine. Since this scooter appears to be tuned well enough to perform at speed, and starts fine, slight loss of compression is a possibility easily tested.
Note- Most auto parts stores have compression testers you can use borrow/rent. Many will do it for you in the parking lot, if there is easy access to the plug on your scooter's body style.
|
|
|
|
Post by JerryScript on Jul 13, 2015 21:14:52 GMT -5
Do a compression test, for hills and takeoff the CVT can only take advantage of the power available. Tuning the CVT will help, but it may mask other problems.
|
|
|
|
Post by JerryScript on Jul 12, 2015 14:52:22 GMT -5
My impact wrench died today, before I had reinstalled the variator nut. I took out the spark plug, put some nylon rope into the hole, then used a socket wrench to tighten her down. Pretty easy, and she's running great!
|
|
|
|
Post by JerryScript on Jul 12, 2015 11:49:28 GMT -5
There is only one head with both intake and exhaust ports. You will need a new head gasket. Remove the valve cover, set the engine to TDC by rotating till the flywheel aligns with the T mark and the cam gear holes are at lined up with the head, then use a dab of paint or a grease pen to mark the timing chain position on the cam gear for perfect reassembly alignment. Next remove the four head bolts holding the rocker arm assembly, remove the rocker and cam gear, then pull the head. Reassemble in reverse with a new head gasket.
|
|
|
|
Post by JerryScript on Jul 12, 2015 11:41:04 GMT -5
A simple way to check how high/low the belt is moving: use a marker and draw a thick line across both the variator and clutch drive faces, then go for a ride, then check to see how much of the marker line has been rubbed off by the belt.
Note: a common cause of belt failure is too light weights, which cause the variator and clutch to exhibit a springing reaction to each other, manifested by up and down RPMs under certain conditions, especially heavy loads.
|
|
|
|
Post by JerryScript on Jul 9, 2015 19:53:57 GMT -5
What did you set the valves to? If you pull the plug, then put your finger over the hole and try to crank it, does it blow your finger off the hole? How did you check for spark? If you pull the plug after trying to start it, is it dry or wet?
If it wont fire with starter fluid, it's most likely either compression (valves or rings), or spark (no/weak spark or timing off).
|
|
|
|
Post by JerryScript on Jul 9, 2015 19:43:16 GMT -5
When you shred a belt, you need to take the clutch apart and remove any little belt pieces that may have gotten stuck in it.
|
|
|
|
Post by JerryScript on Jul 9, 2015 19:39:57 GMT -5
There should not be any pressure, positive or negative. The tank should have a vent line, often leading to a charcoal canister that absorbs fumes. If that canister gets clogged or the vent line gets kinked, pressure (+ or -) can build up. As cyborg stated, a tiny hole (1/16") drilled into the gas cap is a common fix for tank pressure issues. |
|
|
|
Post by JerryScript on Jul 6, 2015 17:30:12 GMT -5
You do have the reservoir cover off, or at least loose, when you try to compress them?
If two C-clamps at either end of a piece of metal laid across the top of the pistons with the reservoir lid off can't compress them, they will have to be taken apart.
Note- it's considered bad advice because you can damage the pistons, but I've used a large screwdriver for years, only having to resort to C-clamps a few times.
|
|
|
|
Post by JerryScript on Jul 6, 2015 8:13:03 GMT -5
Get a plastic syringe with a tube that fits the bleeder fitting. Take off the reservoir cover, fill from the bottom up. No need to bleed this way!
|
|
|
|
Post by JerryScript on Jul 6, 2015 8:11:02 GMT -5
A long piece of metal, and clamps on both ends.
|
|
|
|
Post by JerryScript on Jul 5, 2015 12:37:50 GMT -5
Put a piece of wood over the piston and use a C clamp to compress it.
|
|
