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Post by alecono on Apr 5, 2013 11:57:58 GMT -5
It is around 40-50 degrees in the morning when i head to school and up to 75 when i head home and it is about 5-10mph slower coming home. When the weather starts to be consistently 70+ will i need to adjust for more fuel or less fuel?
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Post by alecono on Mar 24, 2013 22:45:44 GMT -5
I was using an air compressor with pneumatic impact wrench but it might not have had enough torque. Might wheel it on down to a shop and see if they will break it lose.
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Post by alecono on Mar 22, 2013 16:30:13 GMT -5
Should the variator resist movement? like it is not fluid moving but rather easy then hard
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Post by alecono on Mar 22, 2013 16:09:20 GMT -5
Also scooter elements, what exactly did you do to break your crank shaft so i dont do the same thing ha
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Post by alecono on Mar 22, 2013 16:03:03 GMT -5
Ive have used several different liquid wrench products including Liquid Wrench itself. the impact was an air wrench but i suppose i could try and take to somewhere who has a stronger impact. I have litteraly tried everything else. I have a new variator nut even but cant get the old one off. It is grinded down quite a bit on one side so i could take the dremel to it and see if i can get it
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Post by alecono on Mar 22, 2013 12:42:34 GMT -5
I was going to replace my variator weights and drive belt but my variator nut is not moving. I have tried an impact wrench and heated it up and all. It even looks as if it has been grinded like someone tried to grind it off. I dont know what to do
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Post by alecono on Mar 21, 2013 16:37:46 GMT -5
Thanks for all the help guys!
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Post by alecono on Mar 21, 2013 15:04:07 GMT -5
When ever i have tuned my carb, which has been quite often recently. I start with 2 1/2 to 3 turns out with the a/f screw. From there i adjust the idle screw to where it is almost moving the rear wheel. Then go back to the a/f screw and turn it a little in each direction to see which gives the most rpms. I am by no means a mechanic but this has worked for me.
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Post by alecono on Mar 21, 2013 15:00:46 GMT -5
Ok so upon further investigation my volts are dropping as low as 8.3 when cranking the electric start. It should never drop below 10 or 11 should it? I think that the scoot is charging the battery while its running because I power the lights and even some aftermarket LEDs off of the battery and it is reading 12.94 volts when the scoot is off.
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Post by alecono on Mar 19, 2013 22:49:33 GMT -5
I have a multimeter and have used it a lot with other electrical issues. I have actually a lot of knowledge when it comes to electricity and my first battery when i would try and crank the electric start would drop to under 8V and i have not yet tested the new battery this way but will do so tomorrow and keep everyone posted.
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Post by alecono on Mar 19, 2013 15:17:56 GMT -5
I have also found out that once i do get it to kickstart with the touchy kick starter (seems like it would start in one or two kicks if the kicker was working right) I rode it around the block and when i came back to the house is was running a little lean and so it was about to die at idle so i let it and immediately cranked the electric start after it died and it started right back up. after trying this again it tried once but didn't make it then went back to the low pitched electric sound. and then eventually clicking.
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Post by alecono on Mar 19, 2013 11:52:16 GMT -5
 The bottom red goes to batter and the top goes to whatever else. The small wire on the left is the one that goes to starter switch.  This upper plug is what the other wire from starter switch goes to. it enters with the yellow wire but two wires(green and yellow) come out. The female end has remnants of a green wire still in it which is why i taped it off.  This is another picture of plug and the lower plug is empty and always has been.  this is the switch |
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Post by alecono on Mar 18, 2013 18:25:56 GMT -5
ok so i have the a/f screw about 2 1/2 turns out which is what i have always read was where i should start it out as. It did start and i rode it around the block and tuned the idle. its hard to tell if it starts better on idle or with some throttle because its so damn hard to start because i cant get a good crank on the kickstart. as for the electric start. the breaklight comes on and when i push the electric start button (which i might add is not stock) it will give a very faint reving souund (electric sound) but after a couple tries it clicks. The battery is good as far as i know, I charged it up before install and it is much bigger than what was in there. Fuse is fine. the settup of electric start is not stock im fairly sure. Which i tried to explian in my other thread
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Post by alecono on Mar 18, 2013 18:07:35 GMT -5
Ok sooo, I have not touched the needle at all? anyways i am really not sure how to get the electric start working, (see my electric start thread) and also, I used the old main jet because its a  and i'm running a BBK and exhaust and uni filter so i need the extra jet. I left the idle jet in there however. |
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Post by alecono on Mar 18, 2013 16:54:04 GMT -5
thank you, My old carb was one with a drain hose with the screw at the end of the hose mounted near the CVT case. does this mean i can completely remove this hose now? and secondly I have been playing with the screw and i did manage to get it started. only problem is now, after all of this work i have worn out my kick start and now it either wont catch or it grinds and stops. my electric start has never really worked
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main jet
