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Post by mopojo on Jan 10, 2016 13:19:23 GMT -5
Glad it was recovered: I had no such luck on 3 that were stolen years ago. Work it and ride it, bro.
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Post by mopojo on Jan 10, 2016 12:53:18 GMT -5
Yeah, I trimmed the battery well to accommodate the 3-prong male/female. Battery compartment cover fits snugly and keeps most water out: Even before the quick-connect water seems to get in a little but never had any issues.
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Post by mopojo on Jan 8, 2016 13:12:08 GMT -5
My one most beloved site: MDLAs a tech enthusiast this site is undoubtedly the number 1 for practically all things tech related. Great people and top-notch info from basic to the most complex content.
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Post by mopojo on Jan 8, 2016 10:55:40 GMT -5
Created a quick-connect for battery. See: Thread
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Post by mopojo on Jan 8, 2016 10:50:38 GMT -5
Hi guys and gals. Started gettin' cold as he** at night around here and got tired of unbolting/rebolting the battery to bring it indoors at night (battery is 3 years old and I thought that I could get another year out of it by doing so). After several ideas I figured this would be the most reliable and lasting way to create a quick-connect (although not the prettiest ). Had to trim out some of the battery well to fit it but it works perfect. Although this is my first version; there is solder under the tape. Tried browsing Harbor Freight, Lowes and Home Depot for options but bullet type connectors was all that was available: I find these types of connections to loosen and just did not want to have to tweak them every couple of weeks. Any thoughts or comments?
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Post by mopojo on Jan 6, 2016 13:04:26 GMT -5
repaired muffler internals to stop backfiring. Thanks for this, bro. Never seen the inside of one of these. Good workmanship, BTW.
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Post by mopojo on Dec 23, 2015 20:11:22 GMT -5
hang on a minute
how many of those 35,000 was with that BBK on it?? At least 30,000. Lots of people think I am full of Sh** but I swear it is true. I am constantly tweaking and tuning; along with oil changes. It is also the original battery and wiring: Although I have had to splice and solder many of them (wires) because of cracking and corrosion. The only thing I have lost is the right-hand-brake lever switch (which lights up the rear brake-light). Had to change the head light several times and the rear brake-light twice... two turn signal bulbs, three variators and 5 sets of rollers, 4 rear tires and three front tires. Five drive belts. Very rarely revved it over 8,000RMP and warmed it up for at least 1 minute before riding it under load. Te plastics have had to be stitched with shoe-strings in a few places (will post a couple pics as soon as I can catch up with my tech-related stuff. This is the top-end I purchased (not a sales pitch). Purchased over two years ago and still kickin'. I lapped the valves and everything else I could think of.... Ran only Rotella 15-40 since day 1. Edit: All in all I figure I have over 40,000 miles on this bike. Only transportation I own and ride rain, shine, snow, sleet... whatever everyday. Maybe 44mm is a 63cc.... I really don't know as there is mixed opinions.?.?.? Any help with this displacement with accurate CCs on 44mm?
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Post by mopojo on Dec 22, 2015 16:23:22 GMT -5
Changed out the regulator/rectifier and next day had to change the CDI. I guess after 3 years on stock ones was pushing it and decided to fail together.
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Post by mopojo on Mar 23, 2015 16:38:54 GMT -5
Ah. Maybe I should reread the thread. I get a bit turned 'round at times. Age and smoke, I reckon. Thanks, geh.
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Post by mopojo on Mar 23, 2015 16:00:06 GMT -5
The cylinder/jug is completely removed and the piston is protruding from the crank case, just not enough to get to the clips to remove it. Will try penetrating oil and tapping it lightly with a rubber mallet to see if that frees it up. Thanks for the feedback. So you are at the point of removing the piston itself. We are talking about the clips what hold the wrist-pin in place? Then the crank itself will not turn to get the piston at TDC (top dead center - furthest from the crank)? Can a pic be posted? Thanks mopojo
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Post by mopojo on Mar 23, 2015 6:37:43 GMT -5
Agreed: That particular area has little to no room for tolerance "play". A little "play" on one component could cause failure: "Play" on several components or the entire shaft-to-stator-and-flywheel is asking for a frustrating project.
Edit: Hopefully those pics are lying on ya....
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Post by mopojo on Mar 22, 2015 12:35:51 GMT -5
The jug comes out of the engine, so if the piston is stuck in the jug, it should push the jug out. If you can't pull on the jug and get it out, then it sounds like the crank itself is frozen somehow, which requires splitting the case. For now, put a bunch of penetrating oil into the cylinder on top of the piston and let it soak, then try to force it out with a rubber mallet. I thought the same thing too, but the piston will never stick out beyond the jugs sounds like the crank is jammed. John Can also put a 2x2 board to top of piston and whack it with a mallet: Softly?
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Post by mopojo on Mar 21, 2015 18:00:47 GMT -5
Does the crank key slot look alright? Look between the yellow lines: Is the steel peeled back and/or mushroomed as it appears?
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Post by mopojo on Mar 20, 2015 7:19:36 GMT -5
OK. Might take me a few days but I got you. Thanks a lot: 'Prolly less expensive and better quality than I could/would create. One wouldn't know that I also repair PCs, tablets, phones, gaming-system and other electronics along with providing extensive technical solutions. Not boasting: Just saying one has never seen my wiring technique on a scooter. Hahahaha! Or anything else mechanical, for that matter. Plug-and-go.
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Post by mopojo on Mar 20, 2015 7:11:40 GMT -5
Good God, Jersey. Is that all you do is shovel snow? Man I rode my bike in some snow last winter an it beat the crap outta me! Lost a good chain/lock, too. I was sore for days from the spread-eagle pose trying to stay upright....lol Not for this rider with small wheels @ old age.
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