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Post by danno on Aug 17, 2014 6:26:15 GMT -5
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Post by danno on Aug 16, 2014 6:42:33 GMT -5
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Post by danno on Aug 13, 2014 10:54:07 GMT -5
Thanks!  |
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Post by danno on Aug 13, 2014 10:21:32 GMT -5
Which way? Impact wrench?
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Post by danno on Aug 13, 2014 5:55:43 GMT -5
Hello again.....I'm looking to deglaze my clutch and in the future change the belt. My question is the manual says I need a special tool to hold the housing bell as well as the variator, to loosen the nuts. My question is would using just an impact wrench do the trick...the special holding tool wouldn't be needed? Thanks Dan  |
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Post by danno on Aug 8, 2014 4:16:57 GMT -5
Being new at this I risk embarrassing myself with a dumb question....that being said...here's a dumb question.;-)
Is there a brand of grease or type of grease I need to use?
A future issue will be eventually replacing the belt. Is there a way of getting the belt off without the special tool as shown?
Would an impact wrench do it?
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Post by danno on Aug 7, 2014 19:15:10 GMT -5
deleted...double post
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Post by danno on Aug 7, 2014 19:14:28 GMT -5
Btw..I got this response from the Burgman forum....There was apparently a design flaw during 2007-2009 period on the 400....This overheating was an issue because there was no venting. Suzuki later redesigned it which fixed the issue.
Let me know what you think?
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Post by danno on Aug 7, 2014 18:48:00 GMT -5
if it's working ok... just clean her up and run it till it does start to give problems. Replacing the clutch on these bikes is pretty easy... pull the belt, use an impact on the that nut (or a breaker bar with a freind on the rear brakes) and it will slide off... Lube the splines putting it back together.... clutch changes are pretty easy. Getting the cover on and off is the hardest part of the change out. It does look like it has delt with quite a bit of heat tho. Maybe the previous owner glazed it, then fixed the problem? The thing that concerns me about the belt is a special tool is needed to hold the housing from spinning,  |
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Post by danno on Aug 7, 2014 18:44:44 GMT -5
It's an 08....So if Im understanding you right....all I have to do is pull off the nut holding the bell housing on and that then will give me access to the clutch which should simply slide off? Then replace it with a new one?...No need to replace the bell housing too? |
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Post by danno on Aug 7, 2014 18:38:23 GMT -5
if it's working ok... just clean her up and run it till it does start to give problems. Replacing the clutch on these bikes is pretty easy... pull the belt, use an impact on the that nut (or a breaker bar with a freind on the rear brakes) and it will slide off... Lube the splines putting it back together.... clutch changes are pretty easy. Getting the cover on and off is the hardest part of the change out. It does look like it has delt with quite a bit of heat tho. Maybe the previous owner glazed it, then fixed the problem? I appreciate the advice....Im sure it is easy once you've done it before. I like watching Mic's video's . After watching I have a lot more confidence in tackling a situation, If there isn't one, then I'm not confident im up to it. |
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Post by danno on Aug 7, 2014 18:34:32 GMT -5
Hard to comprehend a clutch worn out on a Burgman 400 in only 11,500 miles. One would expect 50,000+ miles before you got to that point. Are you the original owner? If not possibly the previous owner like to sit at stoplights gunning the engine against the brakes heating up the clutch. If you can get a look at how worn the clutch shoes are and find that they have plenty of material left you can run that until they are worn down however you may just want to remove the nut and pull the clutch bell so you can clean things out. If the bell is still in the correct thickness range for continued use and the shoes are good then cleaning may get you going for 20,000 or so miles. I'm the second owner. The previous owner was an old guy like me and I doubt seriously he'd be the type to sit at stoplights gunning the engine against the brakes heating up the clutch. My work hours dictates I won't be able to tackle this until next week.Again, thanks for your time. I'll take more pictures once I get to it next week. |
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Post by danno on Aug 7, 2014 4:40:40 GMT -5
That can be caused by a high idle condition (does the wheel spin up while on the center stand with the engine idling?), slow speed riding below 10 mph (like when creeping though neighborhoods or cemeteries to go sightseeing) which keeps the clutch constantly slipping, revving the engine to hold position while at a traffic stop instead of using the brake or from worn out clutch shoes (does the engine speed up wildly when you give it hard throttle or just rev a bit and dig in solidly giving steady acceleration?). You need to tell us which applies along with how many miles are on the bike. You also need to pull the clutch bell off and inspect the clutch shoes and see if they are worn out. Thanks Rocky for your time to respond. No, the rear wheel does not spin while in idle on the center stand. Everything seems normal....My normal driving pattern is not slow speeds...I typically am over 55mph most of the time at or above 65mph. The bike has about 11500 miles on it. How much would I expect to pay a shop if the clutch needs to be replaced? Im thinking of bringing it in broken down to t he point as you see in the picture to save a few bucks on labor. (I have a trailer) With no symptoms, is it safe to ride? Again , I appreciate your time. |
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Post by danno on Aug 7, 2014 3:55:25 GMT -5
The ride feels pretty normal...should I be experiencing or hearing something I shouldn't be?
What's the fix? Probably beyond my ability. Any idea of the cost for a shop to fix it?
Is it safe to keep riding until I get it dealt with?
Thanks in advance for your time in helping me out.
Dan
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Post by danno on Aug 6, 2014 21:04:18 GMT -5
Here is a picture...This doesn't look good. Hopefully someone can tell me it's not as bad as it looks.  |
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