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Post by pmatulew on Jul 21, 2013 6:35:33 GMT -5
Tool options when there is enough sticking out to grab on to -->
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Post by pmatulew on Jul 21, 2013 6:19:03 GMT -5
If there's not enough sticking out to grab on to then use a grinder or a file of some sort to flatten out the remainder so that you can drill it.
Easy outs: --> I agree with this guy. Sometimes they work, sometimes they don't. Break it off in the hole and you're totally screwed because the easy out is harder than your drill bits.
Helicoil: --> What to do when you've completely buggered up the hole and you need to get it back to normal. You don't really need the fancy adapter tools, but you do need the correct drill, tap, and inserts. The kits seem expensive but the alternative of replacing the part is probably worse.
Drill bits: Nuts and bolts in general are almost as hard as regular drill bits. Asian fasteners tend to be hard and brittle. Do yourself a favor and buy a small set of cobalt drill bits. Not "Cobalt" brand like you get at Lowe's, but cobalt steel, (instead of regular HSS high speed tool steel). The cobalt bits are very hard and very sharp. They'll cut through a bolt easily where a regular steel drill bit will struggle and round off. Go slow and use some sort of oil or WD-40 to keep the drill bit cool. Same warning. If you break the bit in the hole, you're totally screwed.
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Post by pmatulew on Jul 21, 2013 5:41:18 GMT -5
What are you folks using to measure your RPM? Do you have a factory tachometer on your instrument panels or have you added something aftermarket?
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Post by pmatulew on Jul 20, 2013 13:46:02 GMT -5
The topology of your riding area also makes a difference in your power requirements. in a relatively flat area it's easy to run at near max speed. Whee!  In a hilly area that 50-55 cruising speed can quickly become 25-30 chugging up the hill with a line of anxious cars piling up behind you. Not fun. Not safe either  But, you work with what you have. Sometimes a little creative navigation is all that's necessary to get you where you want to go without risking the big roads. Leave a little earlier, take the back road. Enjoy the ride. Coming to you live from the "Endless Mountains" region of North East Pennsylvania with a rear view mirror full of tanker truck!  |
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Post by pmatulew on Jul 20, 2013 7:16:14 GMT -5
Price point: In that $300 difference lies the $64,000 question. It's basically the same scoot. Came from the same factory. What is the difference? Other than the paint job, what upgrades has BMS specified that make it worth more? The name stenciled on the seat? The stainless hardware? The alarm system? Maybe that adds up. Not a lot of detail in the listing for the Interceptor. Would be worth a phone call to ask. Or a visit to a showroom if there was one.
Upgrading to a 250: It all depends on the needs (and stature) (and experience) of the rider. A 150 is perfect for tooling around in town. It has a little more oomph for keeping up with traffic than a 50 but is still light enough to toss around and stuff in small parking spots. Once you leave the city limits though it's a different story. A stock 150 will be struggling to keep from getting run over. If you're going to spend any amount of time on county or state roads then a 250 would be better suited to those speeds. The trade off being that it's heavier like a motorcycle and feels less "scoot-y"
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Hm? CL ad
by: pmatulew - Jul 20, 2013 6:26:08 GMT -5
Post by pmatulew on Jul 20, 2013 6:26:08 GMT -5
Even without paperwork the parts alone are worth double what he's asking.
Run away.
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Post by pmatulew on Jul 19, 2013 17:33:39 GMT -5
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Post by pmatulew on Jul 19, 2013 17:29:36 GMT -5
I completely understand about looking at reviews. They're all over the place. Unfortunately the big target market for scoots is younger and inexperienced so it's hard to get solid information. Solid information: Chinese chrome totally sucks and doesn't hold up well at all. Stay far far away. Also Chinese ABS isn't. Don't be fooled. Personal opinion, I'm liking the Interceptor. Modern styling. Longer lines. Better protection from the elements. Going to have a bigger storage box under the seat. That same Benneng motor has been cloned a zillion times and uses mostly common parts. Handlebars are totally bu-tugly though. The Motorino, (It's a ZNEN too, why not just call it that?), with less body work will probably be lighter and quicker off the line and maybe a little easier to work on and modify because you can get to things, but you sacrifice some comfort and some storage space. The Aeolus isn't appealing at all. Quasi retro style but watered down. Certainly other choices around if you're after the classic look. --> www.scootersus.com/MOTORINORIVIERA150.html --> www.scootersus.com/bmsv9.htmlNo matter what you choose, you're the one that's going to be stuck with it. So, don't just take our word for it. Continue to use the time you have to do your homework before you plunk your money down. |
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Post by pmatulew on Jul 19, 2013 5:03:30 GMT -5
Start at 1:45 where he is preparing to put the lid back on. Heck, maybe I need to watch it too. Another ride and mine is still leaking.  |
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Post by pmatulew on Jul 18, 2013 17:14:34 GMT -5
[replyingto=petrol42]petrol42[/replyingto]Znen leaks: Been there doing that. Brand new build. Rode it twice and it's dripping oil and blew the clutch.  Took it all apart again. Re-checked everything. Applied some RTV. Re-torqued carefully. Think I have the leak stopped now. |
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Post by pmatulew on Jul 18, 2013 12:06:55 GMT -5
The black plastic cooling shroud is there to help direct the air from the fan over and around the fins on the cylinder and head. You could run the motor without the shroud but not for very long before it would start to overheat. For testing you could set up an electric fan to blow air at the motor. Unfortunately the shroud is covering over all the joints between parts that you want to get a look at. Whether or not you have room to remove it, (or the valve cover or anything else), will depend on your particular model of scooter and the bodywork around it. On my 150 the front of the motor sits quite low so I can't do much without removing the whole engine assembly from the frame. Not as bad as it sounds, but still time consuming.
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Post by pmatulew on Jul 18, 2013 5:38:00 GMT -5
Scooter motors a pretty simple (as far as motors go) so there are only a few common leaky spots. The valve cover, the head gasket, or the base gasket.  Unfortunately all three are hidden underneath the plastic cooling shroud. Once you get a leak, the air from the engine fan blows the drips around and you have oil everywhere. You'll just have to start digging to find out which is the culprit. You may also want to check that the breather tube attached to the top of the valve cover is still connected to something at both ends. Otherwise it will be venting oil mist in to your engine compartment, |
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Post by pmatulew on Jul 18, 2013 5:14:45 GMT -5
When I move two-wheelers around in my trailer, I screw down two basic 2x4's lengthwise and spaced far enough apart for the wheels to roll through. Then it's just a matter of rolling the bike all the way forward to the front panel and then snugging it down with the ratchet straps. The front panel of the trailer prevents the bike from rolling forward if I have to stop fast. The ratchet straps hold it all upright and the 2x4's keep the wheels from slipping out to either side. I'm not too worried about the bike trying to roll backward since I'm driving more gently with a load anyway. Has worked well enough for me, 50cc scoot up to 800 lbs of 1100cc touring bike, plus a few ATV's thrown in for variety.
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Post by pmatulew on Jul 17, 2013 16:50:25 GMT -5
Is it just me, or is there no way to adjust the rear spring pre-load on a generic GY6 150 without removing the airbox?
Seems overly complicated if for instance you travel out light with the intention of travelling back heavy. How would you do the adjustment in the field?
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Post by pmatulew on Jul 17, 2013 5:46:21 GMT -5
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