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Post by gingel on Nov 7, 2013 7:52:23 GMT -5
HAHAHAHA, but you don't need that flap right The R/R is charging it  Alleyoop I think that port is for balancing the cells once in awhile. I see people building their own LifePo4 packs ( ). some add a port so it will be possible to hook it up to a balancer. |
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Post by gingel on Nov 5, 2013 3:03:07 GMT -5
And how does the scoot R/R charge it? Like I said those types of batteries require a special charger. Alleyoop From what i understand there is no problem with the scooter R/R to charge it. The special charger is for doing a balance to the cells once in a while. |
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Post by gingel on Nov 4, 2013 8:52:39 GMT -5
Those options are viable, but expensive. It also adds complexity, with the possibility of any of the components failing. A tried and true SLA is $30, and no extra circuits that may fail are required. This is what i mentioned before, where i live (Israel) the prices of scooter maintenance free Lead Acid battery are high. Around 100$ US for a 7Ah battery, and they last maybe 2 years. |
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Post by gingel on Nov 4, 2013 1:27:48 GMT -5
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Post by gingel on Nov 3, 2013 15:43:28 GMT -5
Hello, I have a 125cc scooter (SYM Brand), and i read that people started to use LifePo4 (Lithium iron phosphate) battery instead of the Lead Acid. People use this also on motorcycles. It is basically a type of lithium battery. This type of battery supposed to last longer, and the weight is much lower. Where i live the prices of the scooter Lead Acid batteries are high and quality is not so good, so i thought maybe to try and install the LifePo4 battery. I saw that there are LifePo4 batteries that looks like the lead acid battery. I also read that people use LifePo4 battery packs that are for radio control toys (planes,cars). From what i understand, if i have a 7Ah Lead Acid battery, then a 2.3Ah LifePo4 supposed to be enough for my 125cc scooter. Anyone here tried to use this, or heard about it? |
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Post by gingel on Aug 26, 2013 22:36:59 GMT -5
My scooter also have a front drum brake.
I'll try to find a new drum, or maybe see if it will level the unevenness by itself.
Thank you.
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Post by gingel on Aug 24, 2013 9:37:57 GMT -5
I'll see if it will be ok in the next few hundreds miles. The bearings of the output shaft looks ok, because i tried to move it to all side and it pretty solid. The rear brakes last a long time i have 10000 miles on min and still going. After you tigjten the break nut allthe way there is another way you have to adjust them. You can adjust the break arm that your line attaches to . If you don know what im talkin about im sure i can send u some pics. Do you mean tightening the drum brake, after you can't turn the nut anymore? Is that recommended? Can you post a picture? |
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Post by gingel on Aug 24, 2013 2:54:39 GMT -5
[replyingto=prodigit]prodigit[/replyingto]I'll try to loosen the rear brake nut to a point where there is only a slightly resistance when spinning the wheel by hand, and see if that help after a few hundreds miles. Mabye it will level the unevenness. The thing is, these brake shoes already done about 2500 miles. Btw, i think that the rim in my scooter is steel, and only the drum is aluminum. The drum is bolted to the rim with screws, so theoretically you can replace only the drum and not the entire rim. Is there some sort of rubber weatherproofing ring between the wheel and the swingarm that might be catching when you snug the wheel in place? I don't think i have a swingarm. only the exhaust is in the way of the rear wheel. Did u put the spacer back in before the nut ? If not the nut is tightening against the bearings and this will cause resistance. It has a washer between the wheel and the nut. Is that what you meant? The resistance is only when i tightening the rear brake nut, so it must be the brake shoes touching the drum at one point. |
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Post by gingel on Aug 23, 2013 13:10:44 GMT -5
The drum is clean, and i can't see any rust.
Also, there is not any visible damage to the drum.
I opened it again, and slightly cleaned the brake shoes with some fine sand paper, also cleaned the drum.
I installed the wheel on (without tightening the nut of the wheel),
and then i tightened the nut of the drum brake, and the wheel was spinning smoothly.
When i tightened the wheel nut, then i felt that light resistance.
Really weird.
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Post by gingel on Aug 23, 2013 6:09:34 GMT -5
Hello,
I have a strange problem with my rear drum brake.
I adjusted the nut on the drum brake, to make the brake lever more tighter, but when i turn the wheel by hand i noticed there is a point
where you can feel resistance.
I didn't over tighten it, there is a free play at the brake lever.
When i untighten the nut, the resistance is gone, but then the brake lever is not tight enough.
Also, when riding and braking with the rear brake, you can hear some squealing noise.
I replaced these brake shoes 4000KM (2500 miles) ago, but it started to do it a while ago.
I tried cleaning the drum, and i had quiet for some time, but the squealing noise is back.
Anyone know why there is resistance when turning the wheel by hand?
I understand something is rubbing, but when i opened it, everything
seems to be ok.
Maybe i should slightly grind the brake shoes with fine sand paper?
Thank you.
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Post by gingel on Aug 11, 2013 4:07:44 GMT -5
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Post by gingel on Aug 10, 2013 6:47:01 GMT -5
Maybe i should try and use some fuel additive. Unfortunately, in my area i don't think i will find the "Berryman's Total" or "Zmax engine treatment" . There is the "44k" i wrote about and also something from "liqui moly" . You do need to flush the oil though, otherwise the debris will collect in the engine if you only refill, never change the oil. I wonder if they sell a BBK for the SYM, that way you don't need to do much of anything, but install the BBK cylinder kit, and valve adjustment. I'd simply ride the scoot, until the bearings start giving up, and only then rebuild it; some people are for preventive maintenance, but I usually only repair broken things. It's a gamble, but more than likely you can save more money doing things this way, than replacing them preventively, as it may be that you can still go many more miles before the engine needs a rebuild. I do a complete oil change every 4000 KM (around 2500 miles). The manufacturer is saying to change the oil every 1000KM (600 miles), but they are saying to use mineral oil. The SYM importer where i live, recommend the use of semi synthetic oil, and to change the oil every 4000 KM. I also thought about riding it until it dies, but if it will start burning too much oil, then it's better to do a rebuild (at least for the top end). |
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Post by gingel on Aug 8, 2013 23:48:54 GMT -5
Thank you all for the replies . First if you haven't done so try a heavy treatment of the gas with Berrymans Total Care. It could simple be that the oil ring has gotten a bit sticky and isn't expanding fully when the engine warms up so the Berryman's could free things up and reduce the oil consumption. Next better would be treating with Zmax using both the fuel and engine treatments. I have had good results freeing up dirty automotive and power equipment that we had given up for lost using that product. Where i live, there is a popular fuel additive called 44K, but i don't know if it's also for carburetor. you can read about it here: (scroll down to find it) www.bgprod.com/products/fuelair.htmlWhat do you think about that? Can a fuel additive reach the oil rings? I thought you need to put something in your oil, so it will reach the oil rings. Amazing !! What oil do you use and how often do you change it ? Is engine stock or any mods ? How many belts and weights has it used up ? I thought I had a lot of miles with 17k . I can eat off of my engine no oil leaks at all . Congratulations on having a good scooter and being smart enough to take such good care of it . I always used "Motul 10W40 scooter expert" oil (it's a semi synthetic). I change the entire amount of oil every 4000 KM. Although now, because i add about 200ml every 1000 KM, until i reach the 4000 KM mark, it's like i already did one change of oil. The engine is stock, never did any mods to it or the variator. I replace the roller weights every 8000 KM, and a genuine SYM belt can hold between 12-16K KM. Sometimes i used non-genuine belts which held about 8-10K KM. |
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Post by gingel on Aug 8, 2013 14:57:23 GMT -5
Hi, I wanted to share with you that i just reached to 100K KM (around 62,000 miles) on my 125cc scooter. It's a SYM scooter, with a 125cc engine (air cooled). I never had to rebuild the engine, although recently i noticed it's starting to burn a little more oil. It was burning around 200ml of oil for 1000 km (620 mile) for the last 10K KM, but now i noticed it's burning a little more (still need to follow it to know exactly how much more). I don't see any leaks. The scooter runs ok, feels great. Is it possible that i will only need to replace the piston rings and gaskets, to lower the oil consumption? Do i need to do something to the cylinder if it doesn't have any damage? Thank you. Attachments:
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Post by gingel on Jun 9, 2013 14:55:52 GMT -5
If you already have the tires, then just check if it says "tubeless" on the side.
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