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Post by prodigit on Sept 17, 2013 21:26:14 GMT -5
Keep it and  You never knew about it! I just wanted to say, now that you have the pictures, we know that the bike exist, but it's not yours yet until you get the title. Lets hope they won't find out. Usually you can request the title online (that way you avoid phone contact with them). If they don't notice at title shipping, then you're in luck! Doing the titlework online allows an extra chance of them not noticing imho... Otherwise, there's something like "it's not my fault" law.   |
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Post by prodigit on Sept 17, 2013 13:18:23 GMT -5
Well, aside from the technical name differences (I don't know the exact terminology, english is not my main language), you're confirming the same thing as I was just saying. Those sealed bearings are ball bearings. And mine broke. I guess they got too hot or something from racing too long at high speeds.
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Post by prodigit on Sept 17, 2013 13:15:55 GMT -5
I'd go with the trunk, it's easy to remove anyway. I use my scoot mainly for groceries.
i have another scoot or motorcycle, where I do my trips with.
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Post by prodigit on Sept 17, 2013 1:25:08 GMT -5
My greatest lessons where:
1- Look in the mirror, then quickly tilt your head back, and immediately forward, just enough to have a glance on rear traffic, and look back in the mirror while switching lanes.
The quickly looking back is so vital to know rear traffic. Quickly because the car in front of you may stop, and you'll be head on to it; but not too quick, so you still can glance the traffic situation behind you!
2- Be careful when applying the front brake on a rainy day on the painted parts of the road
3- With anything larger than a 150cc, don't WOT all out from a standstill!
Esp. on a rainy day you could slide.
4- Keep distance
5- Don't zigzag, but try to ride predictably. Use your blinkers when you switch lanes or turn, even when it makes no sense to do so; it'll create a habit that way.
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Post by prodigit on Sept 17, 2013 1:19:34 GMT -5
The sprocket is mounted to an adapter that is connected to the rear wheel.
take out the rear axis, wheel, and the adapter should come out with sprocket and all.
It's basically the metal part where you mount the rear sprocket onto.
Where the adapter slides over the axis are ball bearings, they broke after 3k km with me.
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Post by prodigit on Sept 16, 2013 21:08:17 GMT -5
I suppose the BMS is pretty much identical mechanically than the Roketa MC-05-127 I own;
On mine it seems the ball bearings in the sprocket adapter started to fail, they where not greased.
I'd recommend to take off the sprocket adapter, and check if those ball bearings are greased or not.
I only figured out when the sprocket felt a little loose, and on my trip it finally completely broke!
The dust sealing rings also broke, and the sprocket adapter itself got damaged, because the balls forced their way through the opening.
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Post by prodigit on Sept 16, 2013 21:02:57 GMT -5
Damn cow! (*
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Post by prodigit on Sept 16, 2013 21:02:39 GMT -5
Ok, so it seems when running at high speeds for prolonged times, the ball bearings will fail, because they are not greased. Please take a look at this!
It'd be nice if someone could verify if it's also better to replace the ball bearings with roller bearings; so they can withstand more lateral forces?
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Post by prodigit on Sept 16, 2013 20:06:16 GMT -5
The Dirigo project was based on the 3 cylinder diesel Kawasaki mule engine and front drive axel long with a transmission from a scrapped Ford Ranger pickup and a swingarm from a old Kawasaki 750 motorcycle. Only does 75 mph but gets an average 78 mpg while its at it. The crash test videos of Chinese cars/trucks are an eye opener: Some claim that they are safer driven in reverse so the back of the truck gets destroyed and not the front. The total pancaking of the entire 4 door passenger compartment of the truck left little doubt that a 40 mph event was not survivable. That vid is of a chinese car of the 1980's. The automotive industry has evolved since then! |
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Post by prodigit on Sept 16, 2013 20:00:41 GMT -5
Well, they are very nimble, and I don't find them less safe. My ATM50 frame is actually pretty rigid!
I could ride it upto almost 60MPH down a bridge, before I felt the frame torque, and I got scared cornering because the grip, or frame, or tires, (or something) was oscillating on it, causing me not to make a smooth corner. But under 55 it corners just as good as at 25!
When riding on my 150cc, with 13in alloy wheels, I find the centrifugal force makes it much harder to avoid a last minute object (like a bad leveled sewer lid) on the roads.
My 17" motorcycle tires, with 19" front is even worse!
10" may be too small at 60MPH, but 11-12" might just be the sweet spot for me!
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Post by prodigit on Sept 16, 2013 19:49:55 GMT -5
Probably a small piece of the green part of a sponge might be all you need, as a filter!  |
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Post by prodigit on Sept 16, 2013 19:46:50 GMT -5
Torque can very easily be converted to top speed through higher gearing.
I see no reason why any person should get a bike greater than 500cc, as when the engine is running at 2-3k RPM, you can put such a heavy gears on them, that you could be going 50MPH in final gear, and still accelerate!
I think 500cc eats too many MPGs. 250-350cc might be the sweet spot; more on that, when I receive my 229cc motorcycle.
I've gotten some nice mpg numbers on my 125cc, 118MPG @ 35-40MPH, and 96MPG @ 55-60MPH WOT riding.
125cc is too small, but I'm interested to see how much my 229cc can deliver.
Generally 250cc's are maxed out at 75-80MPH; so too low for long interstate rides. I presume a 350-400cc would be the optimal bike, able to go 90MPH, but since interstate is upto 80MPH anyway, it should be able to bring you anywhere; while using less gas than a 500cc geared identically; especially at lower speeds.
I'm always repeating myself, but IMHO, a 75-100cc CVT scooter is what you need in the city (upto 35MPH).
A manual geared 100-125cc, is what you need in the suburbs, when not riding highway rides.
A 250 cc is good for occasional highways,
and a 350-450cc is good for frequent highway rides.
That's all on level ground. Don't know about hills.
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Post by prodigit on Sept 16, 2013 19:32:22 GMT -5
do you got a manual choke on this thing?
If so, when riding WOT, what does opening the choke do to the performance?
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Post by prodigit on Sept 16, 2013 0:28:53 GMT -5
Plus, the smart is road tested, upto 120kmh hitting a concrete wall and not budging!
The plastic plating will get crushed, but the frame of the smart is >60% high strength steel, which is the same as the Chevrolet Sonic, and Cruze.
Most chinese cars, eventhough they are bigger, are weaker than the smart.
Making the car so small, the engineers had to use high strength steel to make sure the driver and passenger where well protected within the cage.
So you'll not die from riding 40MPH full on another car riding 40MPH from the opposite direction.
However you might die from the G-forces.
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Post by prodigit on Sept 15, 2013 21:52:35 GMT -5
I'd only put LEDs on the tail and brake light.
Also on the stand by/parking lights, or the dash, but not on the headlight nor blinkers.
The blinkers aren't used enough to justify the extra cost of LED bulbs.
The headlight needs a special lens, when you want to install LED lights, as they tend to blind all people, and to focus the light into a beam is hard.
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