Freshman Rider
Currently Offline
Posts: 59
Likes: 3
Joined: Mar 2, 2016 22:49:27 GMT -5
|
Post by johnathonkreider on Apr 1, 2016 9:26:36 GMT -5
Hey everyone! Kreider here again. I need some help figuring out a problem with my throttle on my roketa 150.
I recently put a new carburetor, CDI unit, and intake manifold into it, because the scooter was dying at high speeds (which was bad in traffic). Now, I think my problem has reversed.
When I first start in the morning, I Idle fine and i get up and go fine. I get to the road, and I can go 40-50 mph without much problem at all. I continue on, with a few starts and stops, but then at the same exact point in the road everytime, I will come to a stop sign stop then give it gas, and the scooter will die when I take it out of idle. I have to pull over each time.
When I have pulled over, I have found that if I idle as high as I can I can rapidly twist the throttle and go to WOT. If I do that 2 or 3 times, my motor revs up and opens up and I can travel along the road so long as I don't dip back down. Basically after riding for about 5-10 minutes or so, I can only give like zero throttle or go from half throttle up, and if I use in between, the motor sounds like it's being shut off (and then it dies).
Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you!
-Johnathon Kreider
|
|
|
Post by tortoise on Apr 1, 2016 10:17:55 GMT -5
Previous related discussion . . posting multiple troubleshooting threads segments the discussion and complicates finding a solution.
|
|
Freshman Rider
Currently Offline
Posts: 59
Likes: 3
Joined: Mar 2, 2016 22:49:27 GMT -5
|
Post by johnathonkreider on Apr 1, 2016 12:48:53 GMT -5
Previous related discussion . . posting multiple troubleshooting threads segments the discussion and complicates finding a solution. This is actually a different problem. The article you are quoting deals with the Roketa stalling at high speeds, but this one deals with the engine cutting out when the throttle is in a certain range. Related, but different headers for topics. Thank you for your concern!
|
|
|
Post by scootdoggydog on Apr 1, 2016 16:36:28 GMT -5
have you checked the valve gaps?
|
|
|
Post by oldchopperguy on Apr 1, 2016 19:27:24 GMT -5
First, welcome to the site!
Have a bone for your hard work...
I rode a Chinese 150 for 7 years and experienced some similar problems (along with all the other typical "things Chinese" that we find on these scoots...) Square wheels, rotted tire-valve-stems, rotten, off-size fuel-lines, disintegrating mufflers, all nuts and bolts cross-threaded, etc.... LOL!
Each Chinese GY6 seems to be unique, and what fixes one may (or may NOT) fix another one. I had MAJOR grief with my carburetor, and like you, replaced it. Still I had major problems. With mine, I found the WORST problem was actually the AIR FILTER setup. I could NOT get the motor right with the factory filter... Period.
You may be experiencing more than one issue, but FIRST, I recommend you try tuning your carb with NO air-filter or ANYTHING attached to the mouth of the carb. (Mine would not run right with even a short tube for an aftermarket filter on the carb).
With nothing attached to the carb-mouth, I was able to get the engine running perfectly. I then installed a UNI "sock" filter and the tuning stayed OK. But the motor acted much like yours with ANYTHING on the carb, EXCEPT the sock filter.
I finally DID get the carb "right" with snappy throttle-response and clean acceleration from idle to WOT. But it took some time and experimentation.
Here's an old pic of the scoot where you can see the UNI sock filter, Bando coil and my exhaust. I used a 2-stroke "chamber" pipe (which runs GREAT on a 4-stroke)... a trick I learned back in the 1960's while racing 2-stroke go-karts. but the important part is a full-one-inch header. The stock headers are SMALLER than the exhaust-port, choking the exhaust-scavenging right at the head where it causes the most trouble. You can also see the extended cooling-fan intake, which lowered my oil-temp by 20 degrees on 100 degree days.
You don't want to run the motor sans-filter more than necessary, but for me, it allowed me to finally get the carb "right" and then add the sock filter. It ran fine for 6 years and was still running fine when I traded it on my current old Kymco 250 (which I do LOVE!).
The mods I had to make on my carb were a richer main-jet and a lot of playing with the needle to raise the slide at just the right point of throttle-opening. The idle-jet in the new carb was OK. The carb was a Mikuni, but NOT a performance one, rather, a factory replacement identical to the factory Chinese carb.
My experience with the air-filter is NOT common. But it DOES happen with some individual scooters. Since the frustration I encountered, I always recommend tuning these with NO air-filter. If proper running is obtained, you probably have one like mine that does NOT like ANYTHING on the carb, but should work with a UNI-sock filter.
If you get it running right with nothing on the carb-mouth, then re-attach the factory filter setup and it runs like garbage again... You'll KNOW you have a cousin to my Xingyue... LOL!
You may also be experiencing a air-leak somewhere (like the manifold) or bad vacuum lines. My manifold had a crack in it! If you still have a vacuum operated fuel petcock, it also may act up, shutting off fuel at certain throttle openings. I also replaced my vacuum petcock with a Briggs & Stratton manual petcock, just to eliminate any vacuum problems there.
I realize this advice is pretty generic, but you are facing some of the same multiple problems I had, so I hope this may help. But definitely, I'd try tuning with NOTHING on the carb-mouth to see if the factory air-filter may be your problem.
____________________________________________________________
Other simple mods which truly helped overall riding and tuning on my individual 150 included a "blue" no-rev-limit CDI, a Bando coil, iridium plug, a FULL, 1-INCH EXHAUST HEADER and experimentation with roller-weights in the variator. I found 11 gram rollers gave great acceleration but 45 mph top speed at 9K rpm. 12 gram rollers gave a 65 mph top speed, with NO acceleration or hill-climbing ability.
So... I mixed 3 11's and 3-12's staggered and got good acceleration/hill-climbing AND a 62 mph top speed.
We tend to ask a LOT from these 150's, but first of all they need to run right. I hope this may at least get you on the right track with your new carb.
Ride safe!
Leo in Texas
|
|
Freshman Rider
Currently Offline
Posts: 59
Likes: 3
Joined: Mar 2, 2016 22:49:27 GMT -5
|
Post by johnathonkreider on Apr 1, 2016 22:22:35 GMT -5
I had set them before, but they might not be exactly where they need to be. The Autozone near me didnt ahve a .004" feeler gauge, and so I used a soda can that is supposed to be .003" thick. Could this be a valve problem?
|
|
Freshman Rider
Currently Offline
Riding something with two wheels and an engine for 40 some years.
Posts: 81
Likes: 4
Joined: Apr 2, 2016 7:11:13 GMT -5
|
Post by powerzombie on Apr 3, 2016 2:08:27 GMT -5
If it were a valve problem, it would start fine, warm up and slowly. lose power and quit. ( like 30 seconds) That would be if lash was too tight. Too loose won't really do much but lose some power across the rpm range.
I would look at your auto choke. Also a NEW plug will sometimes give miraculous results.
|
|
|
Post by JerryScript on Apr 3, 2016 13:20:53 GMT -5
Actually, hard starting is also often due to improper valve lash.
|
|
Freshman Rider
Currently Offline
Riding something with two wheels and an engine for 40 some years.
Posts: 81
Likes: 4
Joined: Apr 2, 2016 7:11:13 GMT -5
|
Post by powerzombie on Apr 3, 2016 18:38:03 GMT -5
Actually, hard starting is also often due to improper valve lash. Care to explain why?
|
|
|
Post by JerryScript on Apr 3, 2016 20:55:11 GMT -5
|
|
Freshman Rider
Currently Offline
Riding something with two wheels and an engine for 40 some years.
Posts: 81
Likes: 4
Joined: Apr 2, 2016 7:11:13 GMT -5
|
Post by powerzombie on Apr 4, 2016 6:34:01 GMT -5
lol. thats what I thought.
|
|
|
Post by tortoise on Apr 4, 2016 11:23:17 GMT -5
|
|
|
Post by JerryScript on Apr 4, 2016 15:01:16 GMT -5
Please watch video above lol. thats what I thought.
|
|
Freshman Rider
Currently Offline
Riding something with two wheels and an engine for 40 some years.
Posts: 81
Likes: 4
Joined: Apr 2, 2016 7:11:13 GMT -5
|
Post by powerzombie on Apr 4, 2016 19:22:45 GMT -5
Yep, if the lash was THAT tight, it would be hard to start. There is a fine line between "too tight", and "too tight", like .0002 in. Yes, if they are so tight that the valve is already "unseating'' when dead cold, it will be hard to start, then it's likely as the engine warms the valve will unset enough to cause the bike to slowly lose power and quit. Back to your regularly scheduled thread.
|
|
Freshman Rider
Currently Offline
Posts: 59
Likes: 3
Joined: Mar 2, 2016 22:49:27 GMT -5
|
Post by johnathonkreider on Apr 16, 2016 11:53:09 GMT -5
Hey everyone! sorry I haven't responded lately, I had college finals these last two weeks so I was focusing on that first instead of my scooter. Here are the updates.
-The condition of my scooter has goten worse. Now, basically whenever I try to start the scooter and get up and go, it barely wants to run. I start it up, and it idles fine, but when I give it gas it makes this hollow sound, the rpms go down, and it will die. IT sounds like it will die when i give it gas, unless I let off, and let it idle again: then it idles just fine. -If I get it to it's highest idle possible, then twist the throttle to WOT, it sometimes catches *just* right and then It will run, but onyl at WOT. It wont run any other way. -It feels like it is bogging down and missing a lot of beats while riding on the road. It will kind of sputter or stall at times, and other times, it runs totally fine, smooth as butter.
I still have no idea what to do with it. It's driving me crazy! I tried to get into the top of the carb as well, to adjust the needle that blocks a jet, and the top screws were made of these... soft, stupid screws who's top thread BENT as i tried to open it. Not stripped. bent.
So, any other ideas? please?
-kreider
|
|