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Post by dickyh on Oct 18, 2015 6:06:00 GMT -5
Your new 150cc engine is fuel injected??? I put fuel injection on the scoot when I got it a year ago as I didn't want to deal with a carburetor. Love the fuel injection! my only complaint is that there are so many wires that take up a lot of space and was a nightmare to get routed and secure so it doesn't look like a rats nest. |
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Post by steve on Oct 18, 2015 9:10:14 GMT -5
Yeah, I would definitely just change the crankshaft on that old engine. I just did it.
Put the crank in the freezer, and then heat the case with a torch, and the crank will go right in. Don't force it! Go with the cold to shrink the crank, and the heat to expand the case.
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Post by pistonguy on Oct 18, 2015 13:14:21 GMT -5
Yeah, I would definitely just change the crankshaft on that old engine. I just did it. Put the crank in the freezer, and then heat the case with a torch, and the crank will go right in. Don't force it! Go with the cold to shrink the crank, and the heat to expand the case. You can use this method. Correctly it will Drop right in. Be Careful!! that the crank does not "dumb" upon seating, if it bumb's up +.00 your in trouble as the temps equalize Faster than a Hobo on a Ham Sandwich and sets in place , have it fixtured and weights ready to go. Also it Will Sweat and Rust the Bearings and Races if you Don't Spray it down Immediately with a moisture dispersant like wd-40. I have and use this method, current Team Green tech's No longer use mainly from the Sweating/Rust issue.    |
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Post by dickyh on Oct 18, 2015 15:27:41 GMT -5
Yeah, I would definitely just change the crankshaft on that old engine. I just did it. Put the crank in the freezer, and then heat the case with a torch, and the crank will go right in. Don't force it! Go with the cold to shrink the crank, and the heat to expand the case. You can use this method. Correctly it will Drop right in. Be Careful!! that the crank does not "dumb" upon seating, if it bumb's up +.00 your in trouble as the temps equalize Faster than a Hobo on a Ham Sandwich and sets in place , have it fixtured and weights ready to go. Also it Will Sweat and Rust the Bearings and Races if you Don't Spray it down Immediately with a moisture dispersant like wd-40. I have and use this method, current Team Green tech's No longer use mainly from the Sweating/Rust issue. i watched a vid of a guy doing this with the heating and freezing. honestly it is a bit intimidating for me. so what is or is there an alternative to this method? Will probably start pulling the old engine apart, bit by bit this week and trying to track down the issue that was making all of the noise. I'll take and post plenty of pics so more experienced eyes can give their input and advice. Sure am learning a lot from this experience, not so sure it was a welcome one, but none the less an education. I'm ready to quit my job and become a scooter mechanic -- yeah and then I woke up LOL. will keep all posted with pics and progress AND I can't thank all of you enough for helping get through this. the new engine works like a charm and so much easier to take out and put in than I had imagined... was so sweating it, but a cinch. just had to triple check everything after it was in, cause I was scared as all get out to start er up... and voila! not a hitch... she is running great |
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Post by JoeyBee on Oct 18, 2015 17:16:01 GMT -5
That's great to hear. Don't forget to do oil changes after every 200-300km till the engine is broken in. You will see fine metal particles the first few oil changes, but that's normal. This will keep her in top running shape.
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Post by dickyh on Oct 19, 2015 5:55:48 GMT -5
pistonguy got a question regarding engine break-in... what do you recommend? I know to change the oil ALOT but what about seating the rings and so on? read so many topics on this, but you seem to have a handle on these engines and would prefer to hear what you have to say... Thanks!
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Post by pistonguy on Oct 19, 2015 15:12:49 GMT -5
pistonguy got a question regarding engine break-in... what do you recommend? I know to change the oil ALOT but what about seating the rings and so on? read so many topics on this, but you seem to have a handle on these engines and would prefer to hear what you have to say... Thanks! |
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Post by pistonguy on Oct 19, 2015 15:13:53 GMT -5
pistonguy got a question regarding engine break-in... what do you recommend? I know to change the oil ALOT but what about seating the rings and so on? read so many topics on this, but you seem to have a handle on these engines and would prefer to hear what you have to say... Thanks! Thanks for asking, Alott of this bs and that bs based on ol feller 40+ year ago. Ill tell and show ya the why and how. Old barbaric stone hones were used with a finish grit of 280 to maybe 400 and this leaves a Finished Peak similar to a Tip on a Pyramid. upon break in with those old Nodular Iron Rings you can see we have to Knock the Tops of those Peaks off During Break in, kinda tougher on rings and Final Cylinder Sizing and Longevity. These Modern Cylinders are Mostly Finished wit a Diamond Plateau Hone, This Hone Finishes at 600 Grit and The Peak is Knocked off to a Finished Plateau, Darn Near Ready to Race and Much Better Idiot Proofing Break In. Here are Two 61mm Cylinders one Iron Bore and the other Plated Bore (The Plate Bore MUST be Diamond Finished or touched up) kinda hard getting a good pic for ya.  ..   Here some Piston Skirt Finishes to look at, Very fine turned, These are ready to run. Side note 61mm NCY Piston on Right, NCY Cut the Skirt off with a SAW so it would clear Max Stroker applications This NCY 61MM is JUNK. Piston on Left is Taida 61mm Forging with a Slipper Style Skirt. This Piston will provide Much More Stability and Resulting in Much better Ring Seal  Your going to have to Work Hard to Hurt this stuff running in its bath of oil. There really no jageed edges, flashing garbage to wear off. Convectional Oil for Break in, Its Cooler now. Warm up the New Top End. Engine Load is the Main thing,(heat Cycling) Vary Engine Load like if your doing sprints on a bicycle. Up Hill loads are great back off Repeat, Just keep varying Engine Load and Not Be afraid. Varying Load is How a Engine is broke in on a Dyno. Here is a good example of a decent 150cc psi test.(mine) this was a No Mercy Break. 
ask anything ya need to know of the machining, tooling, materials. |
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Post by dickyh on Oct 19, 2015 16:39:11 GMT -5
pistonguy got a question regarding engine break-in... what do you recommend? I know to change the oil ALOT but what about seating the rings and so on? read so many topics on this, but you seem to have a handle on these engines and would prefer to hear what you have to say... Thanks! Thanks for asking, Alott of this bs and that bs based on ol feller 40+ year ago. Ill tell and show ya the why and how. Old barbaric stone hones were used with a finish grit of 280 to maybe 400 and this leaves a Finished Peak similar to a Tip on a Pyramid. upon break in with those old Nodular Iron Rings you can see we have to Knock the Tops of those Peaks off During Break in, kinda tougher on rings and Final Cylinder Sizing and Longevity. These Modern Cylinders are Mostly Finished wit a Diamond Plateau Hone, This Hone Finishes at 600 Grit and The Peak is Knocked off to a Finished Plateau, Darn Near Ready to Race and Much Better Idiot Proofing Break In. Here are Two 61mm Cylinders one Iron Bore and the other Plated Bore (The Plate Bore MUST be Diamond Finished or touched up) kinda hard getting a good pic for ya. .. Here some Piston Skirt Finishes to look at, Very fine turned, These are ready to run. Side note 61mm NCY Piston on Right, NCY Cut the Skirt off with a SAW so it would clear Max Stroker applications This NCY 61MM is JUNK. Piston on Left is Taida 61mm Forging with a Slipper Style Skirt. This Piston will provide Much More Stability and Resulting in Much better Ring Seal Your going to have to Work Hard to Hurt this stuff running in its bath of oil. There really no jageed edges, flashing garbage to wear off. Convectional Oil for Break in, Its Cooler now. Warm up the New Top End. Engine Load is the Main thing,(heat Cycling) Vary Engine Load like if your doing sprints on a bicycle. Up Hill loads are great back off Repeat, Just keep varying Engine Load and Not Be afraid. Varying Load is How a Engine is broke in on a Dyno. Here is a good example of a decent 150cc psi test.(mine) this was a No Mercy Break.
ask anything ya need to know of the machining, tooling, materials. Thanks! I want to push it a bit, but not too hard at first. It's hard to sprint as you say on these congested roads but, I try and push it, then let off and so on... |
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Post by ghcoe on Oct 19, 2015 20:00:09 GMT -5
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Post by pistonguy on Oct 19, 2015 20:12:43 GMT -5
That article has allot of what I said relating to Cylinder Finishes. not bad could give the kid few pointers tho. |
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Post by JerryScript on Oct 20, 2015 2:54:59 GMT -5
Several times that writer asks Why would manufacturers recommend something that could damage the engine? He says Good question. Here's the simple reason, most vehicle manufacturers and dealers make more profit from repairs and parts than they do from the vehicle sales, sad but true and can be found out by reading their quarterly earnings statements.
(Side note-thats why they aren't pushing electrics, they don't break down as much as ICEs do)
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