|
|
Post by dickyh on Sept 25, 2015 17:00:35 GMT -5
Here's a weird question... As I stated I received to heads yesterday with everything installed, both had the spark plug in and both heads that the coil wire goes over seemed to be purposely bent. Is there a reason for this? Not sure what you mean, can you take a pic? here's a pic of what I mean. Note that I am going to use my own plug the nch7 ( i think that's what its called) but was wondering if there is a purpose for doing this as I have never seen it done before  |
|
|
|
Post by dickyh on Sept 25, 2015 17:07:53 GMT -5
So my cylinder and piston came today - Whoo Hoo! and I have a few questions...
Firstly the ring order for the top two. both are black but one appears to have a slight bevel to it and has marking on it (R) the other is all black and has a marking (RN) which it the utmost top? I'm guessing the one marked r with the slight bevel.
the second question is, is there anything I need to do to prep the piston or the cylinder, like clean it out or something? I know on install to coat both with a light film of oil, from what I've seen and read anyway. Anything else I should know? I also know to check the ring gap inside the cylinder before attaching to the piston.
|
|
|
|
Post by JoeyBee on Sept 25, 2015 20:08:15 GMT -5
This video was done by a very knowledgeable member of the forum.
|
|
|
|
Post by cyborg on Sept 25, 2015 20:40:52 GMT -5
They should be straight,,,they got bumped in shipping
|
|
|
|
Post by cyborg on Sept 25, 2015 20:42:30 GMT -5
The cylinder should be cleaned with hot soapy water ( dawn) then dried immediately and coated with oil immediately
|
|
|
|
Post by pistonguy on Sept 26, 2015 6:56:02 GMT -5
The cylinder should be cleaned with hot soapy water ( dawn) then dried immediately and coated with oil immediately Yes Hot Soapy Water is the Only Way. as Borg states Then spray water/moister dispersant like wd-40 or similar. the bore or it will rust in seconds. Go Really Light on all the Assembly oil. Circlip, once in the groove, Opened end is set to 12 or 6 0'clock. Never 3 or 9 O'clock. Index your Rings as in that video. If ya want to check the two top ring gaps should be Minimum .003-.004 per inch of bore. Your Min ring gap will be .0075 I will guess you rung gaps to be .011 and thats just fine. |
|
|
|
Post by pistonguy on Sept 26, 2015 7:01:12 GMT -5
So my cylinder and piston came today - Whoo Hoo! and I have a few questions... Firstly the ring order for the top two. both are black but one appears to have a slight bevel to it and has marking on it (R) the other is all black and has a marking (RN) which it the utmost top? I'm guessing the one marked r with the slight bevel. the second question is, is there anything I need to do to prep the piston or the cylinder, like clean it out or something? I know on install to coat both with a light film of oil, from what I've seen and read anyway. Anything else I should know? I also know to check the ring gap inside the cylinder before attaching to the piston. Markings on the top two ring will be installed up. Can you take a pic of those rings? Since you have two different rings there this is critical you get this right. Is the Bevel to the inside or outside of the ring? Is there any undercuts on the inside of either ring? doesn't even surprise me anymore of a Chinese mfg supplying product with no instructions. And actually the vendor who puts there name on the product should step up. |
|
|
|
Post by dickyh on Sept 26, 2015 7:23:26 GMT -5
So my cylinder and piston came today - Whoo Hoo! and I have a few questions... Firstly the ring order for the top two. both are black but one appears to have a slight bevel to it and has marking on it (R) the other is all black and has a marking (RN) which it the utmost top? I'm guessing the one marked r with the slight bevel. the second question is, is there anything I need to do to prep the piston or the cylinder, like clean it out or something? I know on install to coat both with a light film of oil, from what I've seen and read anyway. Anything else I should know? I also know to check the ring gap inside the cylinder before attaching to the piston. Markings on the top two ring will be installed up. Can you take a pic of those rings? Since you have two different rings there this is critical you get this right. Is the Bevel to the inside or outside of the ring? Is there any undercuts on the inside of either ring? doesn't even surprise me anymore of a Chinese mfg supplying product with no instructions. And actually the vendor who puts there name on the product should step up. I found out that the R with the bevel on the outside of the ring is the top most ring and when I checked the gaps it made sense as the top is .008 and the bottom is .012 which is correct according to the calculations I did based on instruction I read |
|
|
|
Post by cyborg on Sept 26, 2015 8:41:27 GMT -5
We're gonna get this thing runnin right,,,,and as a side note,,,i saw a little heat marking on the cam,,,change your oil more often,,,it's gettin hot,,,after break in i suggest synthetic,,,i've personally have seen 40-70* lower temps on back to back runs ,,,same bike same day same run,,within 20 minutes of each other at a hotter part of the day,,,it's what i run now,,,
|
|
|
|
Post by dickyh on Sept 26, 2015 9:21:29 GMT -5
Funny you should say that cause I change the oil like every 300 miles RELIGIOUSLY and I installed an oil cooler about 3 months ago.
OK so I'm having some difficulty getting the cylinder over the piston. goes up to the point where all the rings are in the cylinder and wont go any further and I don't want to apply too much pressure. any suggestions???
UPDATE: GOT IT ON
|
|
|
|
Post by pistonguy on Sept 26, 2015 9:58:34 GMT -5
Phew ok
I was going to have you look at the Expander in the oil ring, the castle looking ring in-between the two scrapers.
Its easy to get the ends overlapped, will have to force it down and will smoke all the sqeeters outa Honduras if ya do.
|
|
|
|
Post by dickyh on Sept 26, 2015 17:47:57 GMT -5
Well, broke a stud... I used a torque wrench at 13lbs foot as recommended by someone and one of the studs snapped, so now I have to wait till tuesday to try again. Positive side I guess is I'm learning about the engine anyway, LOL I ordered 4 and going to replace them all in case I stressed the other 3 studs. so close...  thought I was doing the right thing by using a torque wrench, but now I'm afraid to try it again for fear off snapping the new studs when I get them. |
|
|
|
Post by pistonguy on Sept 26, 2015 20:31:39 GMT -5
Well, broke a stud... I used a torque wrench at 13lbs foot as recommended by someone and one of the studs snapped, so now I have to wait till tuesday to try again. Positive side I guess is I'm learning about the engine anyway, LOL I ordered 4 and going to replace them all in case I stressed the other 3 studs. so close... thought I was doing the right thing by using a torque wrench, but now I'm afraid to try it again for fear off snapping the new studs when I get them. Oh boy hope you didn't upset the material around the studs. Cylinder Studs correct? Easy to do on this application by over torquing leads to base gasket leaks. Careful. |
|
|
|
Post by lain on Sept 26, 2015 20:48:13 GMT -5
I thought those were 8 lb/ft
|
|
|
|
Post by ghcoe on Sept 26, 2015 23:21:40 GMT -5
I have read 16-22 foot pounds for the 150cc. Make sure you have the right setting and that the tool is working properly. Make sure you tighten the bolts in a cross pattern incrementally.
|
|
