|
Post by beenriding on Sept 9, 2015 20:24:53 GMT -5
|
|
|
Post by dollartwentyfive on Sept 9, 2015 21:49:33 GMT -5
some fuses cannot be checked visually, they must be checked with an ohmmeter.
i'm not a pro on passant wiring, but it sounds like there is no power from the battery to the horn, quit possibly one of the pins in one of the connectors is bad.
also, if the horn only has one wire running to it, then it must be properly grounded. if the horn has 2 wires running to it then it doesn't matter if the horn is grounded.
on modern cars, a "proper ground" is one that goes directly to the battery or the engine block.
another thing, i'm not sure about horns, but starters use what is known as a fusible link. this isn't a fuse, but the wire itself.
|
|
|
Post by beenriding on Sept 9, 2015 22:03:06 GMT -5
So the fuse is after the relay? i thought if the fuse was bad nothing would work. but then thats why i'm here asking for help. this horn has two wires.
|
|
|
Post by dollartwentyfive on Sept 10, 2015 0:12:11 GMT -5
as i said, i'm no expert, so i can't really give advice on this topic. i know quite a bit about the wiring on my bike, but that's about it.
|
|
|
Post by crawford on Sept 10, 2015 10:11:16 GMT -5
Some time horns just go bad have some one keep honking horn and take a screw driver in hit horn with handle side or some you can use to hit it reasonable hard and see it it works. If so horn is junk find cheep horns on e bay replace.
|
|
|
Post by rockynv on Sept 10, 2015 11:47:48 GMT -5
The relay either switches the power to the horn and would have power going constantly to one of the leads on the contacts or it is switching the ground so that you would have power going into the horn. You can check this with a cheap volt meter. If you get power to the relay and horn and its not sounding then you may need a new horn otherwise you have to follow the power back to each connection until you find where it has been interrupted.
|
|
|
Post by beenriding on Sept 10, 2015 14:38:26 GMT -5
The relay either switches the power to the horn and would have power going constantly to one of the leads on the contacts or it is switching the ground so that you would have power going into the horn. You can check this with a cheap volt meter. If you get power to the relay and horn and its not sounding then you may need a new horn otherwise you have to follow the power back to each connection until you find where it has been interrupted. OK, thanks for that! when she gets home I'll hook up the V/meter, after I take the dash apart again I bought a new horn yesterday, if that's not the problem it'll end up on my scooter This is turning out to be more of a headache than imagined, the way it's been with everything on that darn car. Especially electrical ghosts.
|
|
|
Post by cyborg on Sept 10, 2015 14:46:16 GMT -5
When you hit the horn button you are basically turning on another electrical switch,, the actual horn power is out,,, the relay drive power is fine,,, when you hear the click it's the electromagnet closing the contacts,,, it's like a powered jumper,, the switch is fine it's the horn feed power that's a dud
|
|
|
Post by beenriding on Sept 10, 2015 16:12:26 GMT -5
cyborg When you say horn feed power Where do I start?
|
|
|
Post by beenriding on Sept 10, 2015 16:14:29 GMT -5
rockynv Tell me it's not possible for the horn switch in the wheel to be bad if it actuates the relay... That would be the only thing I wouldn't try to fix myself??
|
|
|
Post by horace on Sept 10, 2015 16:39:46 GMT -5
It is possible--- I maybe very wrong here but, All switches can go bad. If you have an Airbag, that would be my only concern with getting into the wheel itself. Maybe, check a VW forum to see if others have had similar issues- Heck, maybe it's a known issue with a quick fix. No driver should be without a Horn... Surprise your wife with a La Cucaracha or Train horn, Then find a new place to sleep for a few days --- Just kidding around
|
|
|
Post by wheelbender6 on Sept 10, 2015 17:42:50 GMT -5
You're not the Lone Ranger. The diesel engine in my 2006 Jetta was efficient and bullet proof. It was fun to drive with the 5 speed manual. But...the electrical system was the opposite. Always a bulb blown somewhere. Always a problem with a fan blower motor or something similar. Brake pad replacement required special tools. Traded it in with a little over 90k miles. No plans to get another VW (newer than 1972).
|
|
|
Post by cyborg on Sept 10, 2015 21:09:34 GMT -5
You need to get a manual and in the wire diagram schematics the wire color code will tell you which is the horn feed,,as stated earlier it should have 12v all the time when the key is on or not,,,I don't know the car but lots of the new ones have two "fuse blocks" ,,,one under the dash or behind the drivers side kick panel ,,and one under the hood,,,this is where a good printed manual is invaluable,,,I like haynes myself
|
|
|
Post by rockynv on Sept 10, 2015 22:39:11 GMT -5
If the relay is switching then the horn button is working as it should be. The problem will be in the circuit between the relay and the horn.
You have one of several possible conditions:
1 - Power not present in the horn circuit so the even though the relay is working there is no power for it to switch for powering the horns. Possibly from a dirty connector, broken wire etc. 2 - Relay coil is good since it is switching when you press the horn button but the contacts inside are bad so the relay needs replacing. 3 - Horn is bad and needs replacing.
Check for power at the horns first when the horn button is being pressed and if there is power then you probably need a new horn.
If there is no power at the horn while the horn button is being pressed then check to see of power is present at the relay with no one pressing the horn button and if there is not then the wire feeding the power that runs the horn needs to be followed back to where power is present to determine the cause (broken wire, dirty connector, bad fuse, etc).
If power is present at the line in for the contacts at the relay and the power is not making it to the line out for the horns then the relay is bad.
If when you press the horn button you get power coming out of the relay from the line out then the line between the horn and the relay is either broken or the connection needs cleaning since you already determined in the first check that power is not making it to the horns.
Again if the relay is clicking then the horn button and steering column is good and all your checks will be to determine the flow of power to the contacts on the horn relay and from those contacts to the horns along with ensuring the grounds on the horns are good.
|
|
|
Post by beenriding on Sept 11, 2015 10:33:49 GMT -5
Well she went to her sisters house after work, and I went for a sunset ride, so I didn't play with no VW last night rockynv That list is pretty much what I've done.. Horn button activates the relay... Check Relay clicks, swapped with a neighboring one of the same spec... check Tried to get a 12v signal with my meter at the horn... nothin. Replaced the horn with new... nothin. The wires are all enclosed in a loom that looks to be in great condition garage kept it's whole life. This car has two horns, one left, one right. Low and High tones I suppose. Will try the other side tonight, if I feel like it. Thanks for your time guys!
|
|