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Post by florida on May 31, 2015 14:36:00 GMT -5
I am working up the nerve to dissasemble my scooter in order to reverse drill/easy out a broken off exhuast bolt.
What is the exhuast header connected to? Underneath the scoot.
I cant reach the bolt with drill right now.
I can take the ( insert part name here ) off the engine right?
Help me identify this part.
Thanks,
***also, what is the best way to extract bolt? Do i have to disconnect engine from frame? I can hang bike from garage rafters if needed.
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Post by keikara on May 31, 2015 15:45:20 GMT -5
The bolt is attached to the jug, where the piston is. To remove from the motor would have to disassemble the top end. Prolly be easier to just pull the entire motor and "stand it up" to get to the bolt. Or if you were able to secure the front wheel off the ground to where you could slide under the scooter, I would only do if guaranteed not gonna fall, would suck to be under and have the scoot fall on top of you.
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Post by lain on May 31, 2015 15:48:58 GMT -5
The engine head. Yes you can take it off, but you will need new gaskets for it. It will cost more to fix the hole than to just buy a new head. They cost about $30 and come with working exhaust nuts and rods, intake rods, valves, spark plug hole. Either way you still will need new gaskets. You would basically be doing the beginning portion of a top end rebuild either way so might as well get a new part that won't have issues and cost less in the end, right? www.jr-richscooterdoc.com/Help_Top_End_Install_GY6.pdfhelicoil kits go for 30 and up. You would need new gaskets, so about another 10, new rods, anothe few bucks, if a mistake happens gotta spend even more.... |
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Post by rcq92130 on May 31, 2015 17:07:52 GMT -5
I am working up the nerve to dissasemble my scooter in order to reverse drill/easy out a broken off exhuast bolt. What is the exhuast header connected to? Underneath the scoot. I cant reach the bolt with drill right now. I can take the ( insert part name here ) off the engine right? Help me identify this part. Thanks, ***also, what is the best way to extract bolt? Do i have to disconnect engine from frame? I can hang bike from garage rafters if needed. Just a suggestion / thought: The 2 bolts securing the header to the head are steel. The head is aluminum. CERTAINLY you can drill the broken off bolt and easy-off it out. But a brand new cylinder head is so cheap. Don't know if you have a 50cc or 150cc or whatever - but IMHO it would be far easier just to order a new head, slap it on, and be done with it. No break in period required as ling as you don't remove the piston from the jug (which is between the head and the crankcase). Simple yourtube videos abound. |
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Post by phssthpok on May 31, 2015 17:15:51 GMT -5
^^^What they said^^^ I had the same situation some months back, though not a busted exhaust stud...stripped threads in the head itself. After a short stint of research, I determined the best (read: easiest and most cost efficient) course of action was to just buy a new head. You can easily do a head swap without removing the engine, or even the body panels (at least on my scoot). IIRC I bought my head off of Ebay and it came with new exhaust studs and gaskets included, all for $30-35-ish.  |
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Post by tvnacman on May 31, 2015 17:42:12 GMT -5
I would order a new head, and if you can repair the old one keep it as a spare.
John
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Post by geh3333 on Jun 1, 2015 18:21:48 GMT -5
I destroyed one of my stock heads trying to drill out a broken stud. I tried to rethread one of the holes but it didnt work out.
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Post by lain on Jun 1, 2015 19:49:54 GMT -5
Metal, unlike paper, is a very unforgiving medium. One slip up and there goes the entire project.
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Post by florida on Jun 2, 2015 8:50:14 GMT -5
I destroyed one of my stock heads trying to drill out a broken stud. I tried to rethread one of the holes but it didnt work out. Please explain whT you did. |
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Post by lain on Jun 2, 2015 12:09:22 GMT -5
Florida, have you ever worked with cast aluminum before?
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Post by cyborg on Jun 2, 2015 13:10:08 GMT -5
on broken studs below the level of the object it's threaded into you need to use a screw extractor,,,commonly called "easy outs",,,you drill a smaller hole in the end of the broken stud and tap in this tool that has like reverse threads so as you turn to loosen and remove the broken part the extractor bit is tightening and out she comes,,,if you can hang the bike up that would be great,,,have a helper stabilize it and you should be able to get it out,,,,either that or you need to remove the head,,
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Post by florida on Jun 2, 2015 13:44:00 GMT -5
Florida, have you ever worked with cast aluminum before? No, I have not. I do undrrstand the different applications of types of metal. Aluminum is "soft and lightweight" and maybe....sheds heat qucker than cast iron. Why, what concerns did you have? |
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Post by lain on Jun 2, 2015 13:59:13 GMT -5
You should definitely just get a new head. Practice on the old one removing parts and removing the old rod and installing new threads and a new rod.
As I've said earlier in the thread, one mistake and the entire project is trashed. It's very very very easy to make a wrong move in soft metal and wreck it. It's also fairly easy to mess up with installing new threads. If you mess up you end up with a hole too large that is useless which renders the entire head useless.
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Post by bigmac on Jun 2, 2015 20:11:00 GMT -5
I bought a new head when an oil seal on my original head started to leak. It was cheap and much easier than replacing the oil seals. The heads, or at least my head, came without intake and exhaust studs installed. I got new studs and tightened them in by hand and have had no problems. Also, being just hand tight means they can be easily removed if damaged or broken.
The only problem with the head I bought was the valves were shorter than the valves on my original head. I needed to get new rocker arms for the shorter valves. Mine is a 50cc though. I'm not entirely sure if the 150cc gy6 motors also have this issue with the valves, but I don't think they do.
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Post by rockynv on Jun 3, 2015 12:12:05 GMT -5
Since aluminum is softer when you try to dill out a broken stud the bit will have a tendency to walk towards the softer aluminum so that you will be drilling beside the broken stud. Remove the header pipe and try to grip what remains with a vise grip plyer or cut a slot in the stud with a dremel type tool so you can use a flat blade screwdriver on it. An easy out on studs as small as you have on a GY6 head tend to snap off leaving you with a tool steel insert broken off inside the stud which will prevent you from drilling it out again to remove it. Sometimes making a steel drilling guide that you can bolt to the remaining good stud can help you keep the drill aligned with the broken stud however that is usually more trouble than a GY6 head is worth.
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