Extremely High Idle  By  madman752001 (Read 3,163 times)

I have to adjust the idle on my 2T when the weather changes . I have had it idle high after zooming for a minute then it idled down

Sure sounds like you have a bad AIR leak if the rpms dropped cutting off as much air as the Air Screw is capable of cutting off. So it is getting air from someplace else if the IDLE SPEED screw is all the way out which drops the Slider as far as it will go. Did you by any chance check your REED VALVE, check the intake manifold for cracks or the Air Filter tubing for cracks or the Air Box for open inlets or cracks etc..

Can you take pictures of the CARB area and Air Filter tubing etc.. Maybe we can spot something that you are missing.
Something is definitely not right if you have the Idle Speed screw all the way out and the Air Ratio Screw all the way in. On any carb if you back out the IDLE SPEED screw all the way out it should kill your motor.

When you say if your choke was working you think it would be fine, What do you think it is NOT doing? The Enricher all it does is either feed it extra fuel or it does not feed it extra fuel.

Very easy to test the ENRICHER:
Take it off and look at it and look at this picture and notice where the gold cylinder is at:
This is the RETRACTED POSITION(BY DEFAULT) in this position it should feed it extra fuel for COLD starts, I even put a blue pen mark around it:

Now Cover the HOLE with your thumb and start the motor and keep your thumb on the hole during the test.



Now as the ENRICHER gets hot as the motor is running the PLUNGER starts to EXTEND out to cut off the EXTRA FUEL, this should start to happen within a couple of minutes. After about 3-5 minutes it should be extended out about 1/4 of an inch.


Alleyoop

Yes reed valves wear out the outside plates that make them snap shut get weak and will not close it completely also the membrane may get rips. Instead of using Carb Cleaner just use Water Spray with some soapy water so it hits and dries right away MUCH SAFER. It will bubble up if you find a leak and or the motor will change RPMS. Spray the connections on the carb etc.. the air tubing etc.. It has to be a closed system so any extra air will cause troubles.
Alleyoop

I think I found the problem. I sprayed starting fluid around the intake, spark plug, both crank seals, and base gasket for the cylinder and changed. But when I sprayed around the head gasket, the motor RPM's dropped significantly. Do these gaskets require a retorque after running, it's a new head and jug or maybe just bad gasket?

The head gasket leak is fixed. That did NOT fix the idle problem. It made it better but it's still running pretty fast. I went back to the carb to look for problems. I did a lot more thorough inspection and found that the carb slide was not sitting down on the idle screw. I removed the slide from the cable and placed it in the carb, turned the A/F screw 1 1/2 turns out from 0 and turned the idle screw out a few turns and it fired right up and idled just fine. I put the slide back on the cable and into the carb and the fast idle returns. I even disconnected the cable from the black box where the cable splits in two for the oil injector and still does the same thing. No matter what I do I can't get the thing to idle normal with the cable attached. Remove the slide from the cable and its perfect. Any ideas?

I've loosened the cable and it still does it?? I'm at a loss???