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Post by tvnacman on Apr 25, 2015 5:36:15 GMT -5
This is the harness coming from the ignition. LOL... You say you don't have a black wire on your ignition then proceed to produce a pic of a black wire on your ignition... What's up with that? LOL Just tap into that black wire. the wire taped in this picture is the ignition sunt down wire not switched power. Do the brake lights or anything electrical work with the key in the run position? John
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Post by geh3333 on Apr 25, 2015 5:55:24 GMT -5
LOL... You say you don't have a black wire on your ignition then proceed to produce a pic of a black wire on your ignition... What's up with that? LOL Just tap into that black wire. the wire taped in this picture is the ignition sunt down wire not switched power. Do the brake lights or anything electrical work with the key in the run position? John TBA I'm not sure . I think the brake lights work with just the key turned , I'll check when I get home . Are u talking about the black and white wire ? If so , I was just holding the the harness up , I wasn't singling out that wire .
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Post by tvnacman on Apr 25, 2015 6:17:32 GMT -5
the solid black wire is your switched power, the black/white wire is for the kill ckt. I just wonder if its not working maybe the fuse in blown?
John
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Post by geh3333 on Apr 25, 2015 6:43:59 GMT -5
Everything is working , but I'm only getting 3 volts to my headlights. M getting ready to go through the wiring.
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Post by keikara on Apr 25, 2015 10:47:02 GMT -5
I am using the new solonoid going to try the old when I get home today and see if just a bad solonoid I have power to break light and turn signal
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Post by lain on Apr 25, 2015 11:01:31 GMT -5
I am using the new solonoid going to try the old when I get home today and see if just a bad solonoid I have power to break light and turn signal Did you try bridging the poles on the solenoid that was in there? Though if you have a new solenoid I would try that before bridging the poles. Got a kickstarter?
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Post by dmartin95 on Apr 25, 2015 11:07:43 GMT -5
I am using the new solonoid going to try the old when I get home today and see if just a bad solonoid I have power to break light and turn signal That's the first thing I would try as well.... You can jump the solenoid by laying a screw driver across to 2 terminals....If it cranks over, i't's definitely the solenoid. I know you must have been disappointed last night... It's not even my scoot and I feel bad about it... Nothing like getting a new toy and it doesn't work right, at least work right, right away... But the good news is this is the kind of problem can be fairly easy diagnosed...
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Post by lain on Apr 25, 2015 11:19:23 GMT -5
It sounds like to me that there is something wrong with the electrical system as far as starting goes. That's why I ask about the kickstarter, if it starts with it then you can rule out a bunch of stuff right there.
Also you were saying earlier your battery was outputting about 12v after charging? It may not be the cause of the issue but normally that's when I would replace mine. Mine reads about 14v when it has good charge in it.
As far as nothing happens when you try to start, you can check the killswitch, starter button, the wires, the solenoid, the starter motor itself. At the very least it should turn the starter motor.
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Post by keikara on Apr 25, 2015 12:03:59 GMT -5
No the battery is sitting at just over 12 volts after sitting on my floor for the past week, don't think it is the battery as not getting a click or anything from solenoid. I do have a kick starter have not tried to start with the kick starter, due to there being no gas in it right now, wanted to get it to turn over, then was going to fill with gas and start and adjust carb. So going to try the different solenoid, if that doesn't work going to try jumping the solenoid and if that works may be a loose or broken wire at starter button.
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Post by geh3333 on Apr 25, 2015 16:49:20 GMT -5
Is 40v at 3000 rpms OK for the stator output? 26 at idle I would have to dig through my saved info to find the actual numbers, but if memory serves, yes, that's fine... Did you test the stator unplugged from the R/R? You will get false readings if the R/R is plugged in. I searched through the wiring and nothing seems bad , so to keep me from getting a headache I'm going to switch the headlights to DC , run the lights straight to the battery . I'll have a separate switch for high and low beams. My dash lights will still run off of the regulator since its putting enough volts out for them . I hooked up the h4 headlight bulbs and they are bright as heck. Also I won't have to run my head lights during the daytime ! I'll keep the small led bulbs hooked up to the RR also " the small bulbs beside the headlight bulbs".
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Post by keikara on Apr 25, 2015 18:37:02 GMT -5
I would have to dig through my saved info to find the actual numbers, but if memory serves, yes, that's fine... Did you test the stator unplugged from the R/R? You will get false readings if the R/R is plugged in. I searched through the wiring and nothing seems bad , so to keep me from getting a headache I'm going to switch the headlights to DC , run the lights straight to the battery . I'll have a separate switch for high and low beams. My dash lights will still run off of the regulator since its putting enough volts out for them . I hooked up the h4 headlight bulbs and they are bright as heck. Also I won't have to run my head lights during the daytime ! I'll keep the small led bulbs hooked up to the RR also " the small bulbs beside the headlight bulbs". Make sure to check your states laws on scooters and motorcycles male sure they don't have a law that must have a headlight on at all times. Some states do require that
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Post by keikara on Apr 25, 2015 18:38:18 GMT -5
So wife wants to spend some time together so probably won't be before Sunday that I mess with the scooter again.
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Post by keikara on Apr 25, 2015 19:32:51 GMT -5
So an update, wife made me walk the dog, so I made her let me do something to the scooter. So went to change the solenoid and first thing I noticed the wires from the solenoid to the harness are backwards. The wires in the plug are switched. Put the old solenoid on hit starter button and it cranked. So tomorrow is going to put gas and adjust carb, then change oil and gear oil.
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Post by geh3333 on Apr 25, 2015 20:13:36 GMT -5
I searched through the wiring and nothing seems bad , so to keep me from getting a headache I'm going to switch the headlights to DC , run the lights straight to the battery . I'll have a separate switch for high and low beams. My dash lights will still run off of the regulator since its putting enough volts out for them . I hooked up the h4 headlight bulbs and they are bright as heck. Also I won't have to run my head lights during the daytime ! I'll keep the small led bulbs hooked up to the RR also " the small bulbs beside the headlight bulbs". Make sure to check your states laws on scooters and motorcycles male sure they don't have a law that must have a headlight on at all times. Some states do require that There are two small bulbs beside the main headlight bulbs " one in each side of the lens" I switched these out with led bulbs and they will always be on since they will still be connected to the regulator .
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Post by keikara on Apr 25, 2015 21:22:09 GMT -5
Then you have nothing to worry about. On another note IT LIVES. I couldn't wait till tomorrow, had to redo vacuum lines didn't have enough just off carb, so uncapped the intake and connected with a T cranked and she fired up. Only thing I noticed is at an idle it seems to idle than drop about 5 rpm then recover, carb seems to be adjusted correctly, if I richen it rpms drop, when I twist the throttle it revs up nicely no hesitation or popping. Granted I did not let the rpms go over 4.5k just a quick twist and let go, when released motor did not pop or stutter, settled down nice and fast to idle. Going to change oil tomorrow and put plastics back on and take for a little slow cruise thru the neighborhood.
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