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Post by geh3333 on Apr 25, 2015 0:53:04 GMT -5
The wiring for my scoot may slightly different ? Why wouldnt the 4 pin RR have the voltage sense wire ?
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Post by geh3333 on Apr 25, 2015 1:03:39 GMT -5
I'd imagine the old 4 pin regulator had to have a voltage sense wire. If so it would of had to read if from one of the 4 wires on the scoot harness. Let's say the old regulator had the sensor built in and it red voltage from one of the other wires. I wonder of one of the other wires already runs to the black on the ignition somewhere in the harness? So if I connect the black to the ignition black , it may be connected to one of the other wires in the harness causing the RR to read voltage from the black ignition and the wire it may be connected to in the harness ? Just trying to figure it out.
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Post by dmartin95 on Apr 25, 2015 1:04:56 GMT -5
Yes I can read a wiring diagram. They usually make my head want to explode so the simpler the better  The Pinout of our plug is different, but everything else is the same and this is from the manufacturer However, the specs say it's a 3 phase R/R, this is NOT a 3 phase R/R...   |
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Post by keikara on Apr 25, 2015 1:23:47 GMT -5
Yes I can read a wiring diagram. They usually make my head want to explode so the simpler the better This should allow you to trace your starting circuit.... BTW, Did you remember to ground your motor to the frame?  yes I put the ground wire back onto the valve cover bolt it was on on the old motor |
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Post by dmartin95 on Apr 25, 2015 1:34:42 GMT -5
This should allow you to trace your starting circuit.... BTW, Did you remember to ground your motor to the frame? yes I put the ground wire back onto the valve cover bolt it was on on the old motor Something else to take a look at... Sometimes when you plug two connectors together, a PIN will get pushed out of it's socket. This has happened to me with CDI's more times than I can count... They're very prone to being pushed out of the connector but you can't see it unless you really inspect the plug or tug on the wires slightly and see if they come out... If you have knocked a pin lose, pull it all the way out of the plug, using something small like a paper clip end, bend the locking tab of the pin back out and re-insert into the connector and push until you here a little "click".... I have a very strong hunch it's one of these kind of issues because if you turn the key and get "nothing", not even a click, then there's either a short somewhere or something hooked up wrong. Are you using your old solenoid or the new one? Have you checked your brake switches? |
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Post by geh3333 on Apr 25, 2015 1:58:14 GMT -5
From what I been researching , the black is a 12v monitoring wire and monitors the voltage to the battery. So I've been thinking. When I hook it up , it lowers the voltage to the headlights . I need to test the voltage to the battery . I'm thinking the voltage that is going to my headlights is suppose to be going to the battery and possible the voltage going to the battery should be going to the headlights . I'll find out when I test the battery voltage. I may have a couple wires backwards.
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Post by geh3333 on Apr 25, 2015 2:26:53 GMT -5
I'm reading 18.7 volts at 3000 Rpms at the battery , with the black wire hooked up I'm reading 16.4 volts at 3000 RPMS. TOO HIGH. I'm checking the headlights now.
I'm reading 7.5 volts at headlights , 3.3 volts with black wire hooked up .
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Post by dmartin95 on Apr 25, 2015 2:34:36 GMT -5
From what I been researching , the black is a 12v monitoring wire You doubted me?  |
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Post by dmartin95 on Apr 25, 2015 2:43:35 GMT -5
I'm reading 18.7 volts at 3000 Rpms at the battery , with the black wire hooked up I'm reading 16.4 volts at 3000 RPMS. TOO HIGH. I'm checking the headlights now. I'm reading 7.5 volts at headlights , 3.3 volts with black wire hooked up . Ok, well, now that you produced the numbers I figured out what's going on... You need to have the black wire hooked back up then figure out where you have yoru REAL problem at... The Black sense wire is doing it's job and without it, your over charging. *edit, even with the black wire hooked up, 16.4 volts is too high also.. Follow the math....: With the black wire hooked up: 16.4 at the battery, subtract 3.3 at the lights, gives you 13.1 Volts.... Which is your proper voltage... You have a voltage drop somewhere in your system to your headlights. Black wire not hooked up: 18.7 volts at the battery, subtract 7.5 at the lights your at 11.2Volts... This is a difference of 1.9volts that the black wire tries to fix. reason I say your over-volting is because the voltage at your battery will kill it... That's too high. What you need to do is hook the black wire back up and figure out where your voltage drop is... I suspect a damaged or loose wire in your lighting circuit. |
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Post by geh3333 on Apr 25, 2015 3:02:13 GMT -5
From what I been researching , the black is a 12v monitoring wire You doubted me? Lol, I didn't doubt you . don't ask y I posted that ,lol. I was thinking out loud . |
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Post by geh3333 on Apr 25, 2015 3:13:58 GMT -5
From what I been researching , the black is a 12v monitoring wire You doubted me? Is 40v at 3000 rpms OK for the stator output? 26 at idle |
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Post by geh3333 on Apr 25, 2015 3:22:51 GMT -5
I'm reading 18.7 volts at 3000 Rpms at the battery , with the black wire hooked up I'm reading 16.4 volts at 3000 RPMS. TOO HIGH. I'm checking the headlights now. I'm reading 7.5 volts at headlights , 3.3 volts with black wire hooked up . Ok, well, now that you produced the numbers I figured out what's going on... You need to have the black wire hooked back up then figure out where you have yoru REAL problem at... The Black sense wire is doing it's job and without it, your over charging. *edit, even with the black wire hooked up, 16.4 volts is too high also.. Follow the math....: With the black wire hooked up: 16.4 at the battery, subtract 3.3 at the lights, gives you 13.1 Volts.... Which is your proper voltage... You have a voltage drop somewhere in your system to your headlights. Black wire not hooked up: 18.7 volts at the battery, subtract 7.5 at the lights your at 11.2Volts... This is a difference of 1.9volts that the black wire tries to fix. reason I say your over-volting is because the voltage at your battery will kill it... That's too high. What you need to do is hook the black wire back up and figure out where your voltage drop is... I suspect a damaged or loose wire in your lighting circuit. We found the reason for having to buy a battery every year ! |
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Post by dmartin95 on Apr 25, 2015 3:28:39 GMT -5
You doubted me? Is 40v at 3000 rpms OK for the stator output? 26 at idle I would have to dig through my saved info to find the actual numbers, but if memory serves, yes, that's fine... Did you test the stator unplugged from the R/R? You will get false readings if the R/R is plugged in. |
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Post by geh3333 on Apr 25, 2015 3:50:54 GMT -5
I unplugged the RR when I tested the stator. Also the battery was reading 14.1 v by itself. So with the black wire plugged in and with the battery over 14 volts , that's probably why it was over 16 volts . after the battery looses some charge and gets back between 12 -13 v the 16v should drop right?
Let's say my battery reads 12.4 then the 16.4 should drop to 14.7
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Post by geh3333 on Apr 25, 2015 4:08:06 GMT -5
Good thing I was here or keikara never would have gotten any answers , lol.
That was a joke.
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