|
|
Post by geh3333 on Feb 6, 2015 22:31:11 GMT -5
The enricher only is feeding fuel when you first start it cold, and only for about 3-5 minutes the most and within those minutes it is extending and allowing less extra fuel until it fully extends out and completly shuts off the extra fuel. But while it is doing this the rpms are dropping down to where you have it set. My clutch pads are just peachy keeny I have a NCY clutch which the pads have about 1 inch more material on each arm for less slipping and they do a really good job of grabbing and no slippage so less glazing. Glazing come by when you are very easy on the throttle starting off like creeping around 5mph or less. Alleyoop That's right , that's why many with an auto enricher will have a problem with their scoot taking off on them if there clutch engaged at 2300 rpms. I also have an ncy clutch assembly . I have the third gen assembly , it also has the longer pads then stock . Nah, there problem is their idle is set to high to being with. In reality when the Enricher is feeding extra fuel is should only raise your rpms by around 500 My motor idles at 1500 rpms and actually when I use the Manual Enricher it my rpms only go to around 1900 not even 2000. |
|
|
|
Post by geh3333 on Feb 6, 2015 22:36:48 GMT -5
JerryScript I wish you wouldn't. You are the only one with knowledge who is willing to help. But THANK YOU for pinpointing about the weights/springs/gears. Is there a tutorial about the clutch springs? I think i understand the function of the torque spring, and believe it's correct that will not even cause inability to reach high RPMs (it only affects when the clutch engages, not what happens AFTER it's engaged). But the other springs ... not really sure what they do. Not even sure if the clutch pulley expands and contracts like the variator. Heyyy , what r u saying  , lol |
|
|
|
Post by jerseyboy on Feb 6, 2015 22:47:52 GMT -5
My enricher doesn't do crap for cold starts,,i even changed it out thinking it was bad,,gotta crank POP crank POP POP,crank POP crank POP POP POP,,what a pain in the butt,,Im going to put a manual on it real soon man..toss the factory enricher right in the river where it belongs!! Mine starts to take off around 2600 R's with the stock clutch springs..i like it there,,also Im not going to mess around with the contra spring,,i kinda like it soft that way the motor doesn't work as hard getting into high gear low down on the rear pulley. Hey Geh,,you said your belt climbs to the top on your variator,,that has nothing to do with the clutch pulley contra spring does it? If that contra spring is too stiff your clutch pulley will have a hard time opening up to let the belt drop into high gear,,even though the variator might be pushing the belt to the top of the face,,your rear pulley might not be allowing the belt to drop all the way into high gear..thus you wont be getting the full ratio out of the CVT.A softer contra spring is better IMO,,stiffer clutch springs are fine if you like to have some more R's before the clutch fully engages,,but thats only the first 20 MPH of your range,,after that its all variator and rear pulley. I try to set up my CVT so the clutch does minimal work,,the quicker it engages the better,,less wear,less heat,less chance to glaze and cause slippage,,but then again Im not drag racing,,Im a low RPM cruising dewd....with some passing power  |
|
|
|
Post by alleyoop on Feb 6, 2015 23:06:01 GMT -5
It should not POP which means your Fuel Mixture is not right. The motors are picky when starting if something is off, a well tuned carb and good motor should start in the 1st or 2nd SHORT hit of the start button with no side music going on.  |
|
|
|
Post by geh3333 on Feb 6, 2015 23:07:46 GMT -5
If your clutch pulley has a 2000 main spring it opens slower and some think it doesn't open all the way . if this were true the belt will not drop far enough in the rear pulley to let it climb fully on the variator. Heavier weights in the variator also helps the belt climb hither on the variator but if the clutch pulley is so tight that it won't let it open as far as a stock spring then the variator weights may not be able to pull the belt up as high on the variator due to less belt to work with. It will have an effect on when it climbs up the variator , that is at what rpm and where it is at a certain rpm. But it should still climb just as high just at a higher rpm.
|
|
|
|
Post by rcq92130 on Feb 6, 2015 23:14:24 GMT -5
I keep asking for a tutorial on the clutch and have yet to find anything.
Simple question: does the clutch pulley open and close in a way similar to the variator? If so, what affects this (which springs)?
Maybe my rpm issue is because the stock clutch is slammed open (presuming it widens).
|
|
|
|
Post by geh3333 on Feb 6, 2015 23:16:38 GMT -5
It should not POP which means your Fuel Mixture is not right. The motors are picky when starting if something is off, a well tuned carb and good motor should start in the 1st or 2nd SHORT hit of the start button with no side music going on. Also a week battery may cause that issue . when I have a fully powered battery my scoot starts without a hitch . however if my battery is weak my clutch slips and I will occasionally get that pop then you crank pop . but that could be the blue cdi we use with the advanced timing . if your scoot doesn't turn over nice and hard and you have the advanced timing you may get that pop with no start. |
|
|
|
Post by rcq92130 on Feb 6, 2015 23:16:41 GMT -5
JB. I'm in San Diego, so of course WAY different weather. But since putting in a manual enricher I have yet to even bother with opening it. Not once. And the scoot almost always starts the absolute instant the starter is pushed.
Maybe a small vacuum leak? Wrong pilot?
Is your carb a pumper carb?
|
|
|
|
Post by geh3333 on Feb 6, 2015 23:21:08 GMT -5
I keep asking for a tutorial on the clutch and have yet to find anything. Simple question: does the clutch pulley open and close in a way similar to the variator? If so, what affects this (which springs)? Maybe my rpm issue is because the stock clutch is slammed open (presuming it widens). The main spring causes the clutch pulley to stay closed . as the variator tightens on the belt the clutch pulley opens . the tighter the main spring the harder it is for the pulley to open , thus the higher rpms needed to open it . so as the pulley opens the belt is forced up the variator as it squeezes the belt. The three clutch springs are only there to engage the bell which then turns the drive gears and the back wheel. The heavier the spring the more rpms it takes to engage the wheel. |
|
|
|
Post by geh3333 on Feb 6, 2015 23:26:28 GMT -5
The clutch pulley opens in opposition to the variator. Meaning the variator closes to pull the belt up . the clutch pulley opens to let the belt drop . so gear ratios are changing. And the main spring keeps you in a so called lower gear longer by postponing the opening of the clutch pulley and this keeps the belt from rising on the variator as fast. Which let's rpms climb faster so u will have a stronger takeoff and a stronger climb to top speed.
|
|
|
|
Post by alleyoop on Feb 6, 2015 23:28:04 GMT -5
Yep if you have a CDI that is already fixed with advanced timing you may run into starting problems. In that case get the Advancing Cdi that comes on around 3000k and is retarded for low rpms(WIN WIN), easy on starts and no kickbacks from the clutch slipping causing unburned fuel to be in the exhaust which will then ignite and pop .  |
|
|
|
Post by rcq92130 on Feb 6, 2015 23:30:29 GMT -5
Thanks, GEH
So the large (main) clutch spring DOES cause the clutch pulley to open or close.
but once the clutch pully is opened (belt all the way down in the clutch pulley, all the way UP in the variator), the clutch is from that point on like a fixed unit. So my top end rpms are not affected by it ... right?
|
|
|
|
Post by geh3333 on Feb 6, 2015 23:31:43 GMT -5
Yep if you have a CDI that is already fixed with advanced timing you may run into starting problems. In that case get the Advancing Cdi that comes on around 3000k and is retarded for low rpms(WIN WIN), easy on starts and no kickbacks from the clutch slipping causing unburned fuel to be in the exhaust which will then ignite and pop . I am probably going to do that , considering I always have battery issues. I was looking at a lithium battery at advance auto but it was like $120 beans. |
|
|
|
Post by rcq92130 on Feb 6, 2015 23:35:06 GMT -5
I got one of John's CDIs about a months ago ----- best upgrade of all. It is SOOOO great to have good starting w/o the back kick!
|
|
|
|
Post by geh3333 on Feb 6, 2015 23:37:21 GMT -5
Thanks, GEH So the large (main) clutch spring DOES cause the clutch pulley to open or close. but once the clutch pully is opened (belt all the way down in the clutch pulley, all the way UP in the variator), the clutch is from that point on like a fixed unit. So my top end rpms are not affected by it ... right? Yes , however a 2000 main spring may need a little time to break in .I bought 2 over the yrs. My first one ran my rpms up a little high at first but after about 100 miles it was fine . my second was fine right off the bat. It will raise your takeoff rpms to anywhere between 6-7k then as you reach around 40 mph or so it should drop of a little or stay at that rpm until top end or so. It all depends on how u tune the variator " that is what weights u use. |
|
..BAD TO THE BONE..
