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Post by JoeyBee on Feb 3, 2015 11:07:18 GMT -5
exactly what i have and will show tonight it's absolutely zero affect. i understand what is thought and for good reason because it LOOKS like it does something, but in the end it simply does nothing. the cam is fully able to spin quite freely in both directions and there is no linkage the affects the rocker arms either. i need to get a couple zip ties to keep it in place for a vid, as holding it by hand and rotating is a pain. Any update on the video to demostrate that the cam stopper has no effect on valve lash retention when the engine is rotated counter-clockwise? I'm still curious to learn if it is fact or myth. |
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Post by jromeo350420 on Feb 3, 2015 17:08:40 GMT -5
So..... after a few days and trying different settings and the suggested settings over and over, it's still not there. Here's what the end results have been so far; if it starts fine, revs fine, and idles fine, I have NO power when I actually try to ride it... as in can't get out the driveway. After adjusting the gap smaller it will start fine with a little sputter during idle and will not rev past 3k without bogging out. If i cover the air inlet on the box the revs go SLIGHTLY up while I have the throttle open but heres where I get confused.... if I take my hand on and off the inlet in 1 second intervals, after 2 or 3 times the rpm shoot WAY up fast as lightning!?!... I just went back to the .004, .005 and it started up, idled for about 5 minutes, then stalled and wont start back up for the last 10 minutes. I thought this would be an in-and-out kinda job. Why would it be giving me soo much trouble? I really thought I was 98% there untill the no power thing, and even then I figured a simple adjustment of the A/F screw would dial me in. No such luck!
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Post by jerseyboy on Feb 3, 2015 17:56:27 GMT -5
These motors are pretty noisy even when set to .003 thats where I did mine this time,,i set them to .004 last time and went 2400km...the exhaust valve was at .003 and intake was still the same. I did .003 this time cause I have a better quality Taiwan head,,we shall see....
Time to clean out the carb,ports and jets for the low power issue....you may have a clogged main jet or port..at least thats where i would start,,it could be a hundred other things...lol
Here is what my valves sound like at .004 before i changed them,,pretty loud if you ask me...guess Im used to hearing it with all the covers and plastics on...lol
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Post by jromeo350420 on Feb 3, 2015 18:36:35 GMT -5
I'm in Jersey too! Mercer.. My carb is brand new so I don't think that's it, but I am a computer guy so what do I know!? I'll get back out there in the morning and see what I can come up with. To be continued......
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Post by jerseyboy on Feb 3, 2015 19:03:30 GMT -5
Ok,,thats cool hello neighbor!!!
Im in Phillipsburg NJ,,very possible that you have water in the fuel causing this too..was the scooter ever sitting outside in the weather?
Take the fuel line off the input nipple of the carb and put it in a coffee can,,then crank over the motor and see if you get a good fuel flow there..your petcock/fuel pump or something from the tank to carb could be the issue.
Its too darn cold out here to be riding anyway,,but it would be nice to be ready...lol
Take care NJ!!
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Post by jerseyboy on Feb 3, 2015 19:10:31 GMT -5
exactly what i have and will show tonight it's absolutely zero affect. i understand what is thought and for good reason because it LOOKS like it does something, but in the end it simply does nothing. the cam is fully able to spin quite freely in both directions and there is no linkage the affects the rocker arms either. i need to get a couple zip ties to keep it in place for a vid, as holding it by hand and rotating is a pain. Any update on the video to demostrate that the cam stopper has no effect on valve lash retention when the engine is rotated counter-clockwise? I'm still curious to learn if it is fact or myth. The stopper on my stock cam had zero to do with valve retention or the valves at all,,it was a separate mechanism on its own that acts like a fishing reel,,it will only spin in one direction,,when spun backwards the square notch falls into the square slot and jams up the cam,,not such a great idea IMO,,my new A10 cam has no cam stopper...now an ACR will have an effect on the exhaust valve,,it will hold it open a crack to release compression until the motor fires,,but we dont have an ACR on our motors. The stopper only works after a full rotation depending on where the notch is when the motor goes backwards...I would remove it all together,,worthless piece of engineering...first of all I would love to see my motor run backwards..lol. |
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Post by alleyoop on Feb 3, 2015 20:28:57 GMT -5
If it's a 50cc set both valves to .003 inchs if it's a 150cc set both valves to .004 inchs and you will have a happy motor and happy valves. As for the cam stopper the cam has to have the stopper like this:  |
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Post by JerryScript on Feb 3, 2015 20:47:56 GMT -5
So..... after a few days and trying different settings and the suggested settings over and over, it's still not there. Here's what the end results have been so far; if it starts fine, revs fine, and idles fine, I have NO power when I actually try to ride it... as in can't get out the driveway. After adjusting the gap smaller it will start fine with a little sputter during idle and will not rev past 3k without bogging out. If i cover the air inlet on the box the revs go SLIGHTLY up while I have the throttle open but heres where I get confused.... if I take my hand on and off the inlet in 1 second intervals, after 2 or 3 times the rpm shoot WAY up fast as lightning!?!... I just went back to the .004, .005 and it started up, idled for about 5 minutes, then stalled and wont start back up for the last 10 minutes. I thought this would be an in-and-out kinda job. Why would it be giving me soo much trouble? I really thought I was 98% there untill the no power thing, and even then I figured a simple adjustment of the A/F screw would dial me in. No such luck! OK, you have your valves set now, good. Next you need to truly tune your carb. Follow this tuning guide by alleyoop, and be sure you do the driving tests as well, not just the idle tests: itistheride.boards.net/thread/12/4ts-carb-tuning?page=1If you still have trouble, then it's either an intermittent spark issue, a loss of compression, or a vacuum/air leak. We'll go through them one by one AFTER you follow the tuning guide. It's important to troubleshoot step by step and not jump around with every suggestion offered, even if the suggestion seems to help (there could be more than one issue, and proper troubleshooting steps can determine that). |
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Post by jromeo350420 on Feb 4, 2015 11:32:26 GMT -5
I get to step #4 in the tuning guide but can not get to #5..
I noticed last night that the connection to my coil was sparking but i tightened that up a small amount and its no longer lose and doesnt spark. I bought a new coil but the stock one I have gas 1 circular tip and one prong. The new one has 2 prongs so I can't even test that at the moment. I have tried a new CDI as well as the old one. I have even tried taking my main jet out of the carb I recently replaced and swapped it with the new, unmarked one figuring it USED to run fine even without the carb.
Thanks a LOT for working with me here! I'll fallow your directions 1-by-1 and have hope we will get these small kinks ironed out and I can get it back in the wind.
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Post by jromeo350420 on Feb 4, 2015 11:51:16 GMT -5
By the way, as soon as it cools down in 2 hours ill make them both .004 instead and see what that does. Thanks for the suggestion!
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Post by JerryScript on Feb 4, 2015 11:59:49 GMT -5
By the way, as soon as it cools down in 2 hours ill make them both .004 instead and see what that does. Thanks for the suggestion! Two hours is not enough time for a complete cool down of all the expanded metal parts, which you need when dealing with such small clearances. Generally speaking, you want to let it cool down overnite before setting your valves, it's a first thing in the morning sort of maintenance, which is why most home mechanics do it on the weekend. As for the air intake, is your airbox attached to the carb? If it is, I'll wait for alleyoop to chime in on the tuning, he's a genius at that stuff. If the airbox is not attached, or has leaks anywhere, fix that first. |
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Post by alleyoop on Feb 4, 2015 12:40:33 GMT -5
Reason you cannot get to #5 is because it is bogging on you when you open the throttle up. TO MUCH AIR make sure the air filter is on and NO OPEN connectors on the tubing going to the carb or cracks and or the airbox full of cracks it is sucking in to much air from someplace. That is why when you cover it up a little it runs better.
Take some pictures of the carb area and the airbox and tubing and stuff if you cannot determine where it is getting extra air from. Maybe one of us can spot the culprit
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Post by jromeo350420 on Feb 4, 2015 13:03:43 GMT -5
I will do that now. I just took off the air box completely and checked all hoses and plastic for cracks. I sprayed carb cleaner all around and no change in idle speed. Only when I cap it on and off with my sleeve. If I just hold my sleve over the intake it still WILL NOT rev all the way up. ONLY if I do the on and off thing will it rev without bogging. Does that make sense? Ill go get those pics...
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Post by alleyoop on Feb 4, 2015 13:13:42 GMT -5
It appears it is not creating enough suction to suck in enough fuel. Are you sure you are adjusting the valves correctly when the piston is at TOP DEAD CENTER and the ROCKERS are OFF the high lobes on the cam.
That on and off blocking the air is a problem with the motor vacuum. Did you mess with the cam and or stator or anything that might have changed the timing on the motor? Maybe it is out of time the WOODRUFF key is damaged and the flywheel rotated on the crank.
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Post by jromeo350420 on Feb 4, 2015 13:23:44 GMT -5
 Stupid question.. If when I only partially block the inlet, it revs up, but not totally restricted or unrestricted, would it be OK to just fix something over half of the inlet and see how it runs on the road? All the cables and connections are good and tight... 1drv.ms/1uYiXjR (the pic didn't show up for some reason on my page so there is the link) |
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..BAD TO THE BONE..
