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Post by jerseyboy on Jan 13, 2015 18:59:59 GMT -5
So if you headlight came on only with motor running you have an AC CDI.
Yeah make sure all your grounds are solid..I would check them also with a DVM for full continuity.
Did you take an OHM reading yet on stator wires with your DVM?
With a stock bore you don't need a bigger main jet than 115,,even with UNI and free flow exhaust.I have a 38 pilot in mine and its plenty too run at idle with 60mm BBK and stock 24mm carb.The main is 120...I ran a 115 in it for years on a stock block,,it ran sweet!
Maybe you are one tooth off on the timing,,I was worried about that when I did mine..
Hope you get it going good soon.
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Post by ksaun123 on Jan 13, 2015 20:59:29 GMT -5
How would I check the blue cdi to see if it's good or not?
Also, would it be good if I make the exhaust studs to be 8mm non-metric instead of 6mm metric?
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Post by jerseyboy on Jan 13, 2015 22:15:32 GMT -5
Here is a chart with some values to look for on a good AC fired CDI. I never had any problems with my 6mm exhaust stud/nuts...I never over tightened them,,just snugged then up every time I change oil. Now I have the 8mm that came with my BBK and they are a little beefier.  |
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Post by ksaun123 on Jan 13, 2015 22:17:36 GMT -5
Did they measure it in ohms? Kind of forgot what resistance was measured in... Does it matter that its a racing cdi?
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Post by jerseyboy on Jan 13, 2015 22:37:40 GMT -5
Yes,,
Those are Ohms and it shouldn't matter,,if there is a shorted/open diode in there you will see it in a flakey reading.
If you are getting ACV from stator or (430-630 ohms on stator wires),,on/off switch continuity,, good pick up coil reading 140-163 ohms,,continuity from primary side of coil to CDI plug,and good ground at the plug,,that rules out everything on the scooter is working like it should so it would have to be the CDI or something else like the coil,,but you said the coil was tested good I believe.
The primary side(two tabs that supply the coil from CDI/Ground) of your coil should show low resistance 1.9-2 ohms,,the secondary side(side your spark plug wire comes out)should have a high reading like 2K-4K ohms add 2K if wire and boot are in series.
This electrical troubleshooting is very important to learn IMO,,its never a good idea to just throw parts at a machine and hope to fix it getting lucky.Using this method you can pinpoint the problem area and find the culprit causing the problem.
Hope that helps...
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Post by lain on Jan 13, 2015 22:43:06 GMT -5
Here is a chart with some values to look for on a good AC fired CDI. I never had any problems with my 6mm exhaust stud/nuts...I never over tightened them,,just snugged then up every time I change oil. Now I have the 8mm that came with my BBK and they are a little beefier. I've heard testing the CDI resistance can still prove to be a fruitless effort to prove functionality of a CDI due to the fact that the capacitors inside the CDI cannot be charged up to be tested properly with a meter. Is this true? The chart mentions a CDI tester, I'm guessing this is a special tool for testing a CDI? Also, nice to see another linux user! |
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Post by ksaun123 on Jan 13, 2015 23:07:19 GMT -5
I was looking back at my older discussion and alley posted a picture of where the wires supposed to go... Why is mine backwards? Was it the problem the whole time? The left pic is my scoot solenoid. The cable with the black tape is going to the battery. i58.tinypic.com/21keedw.png |
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Post by lain on Jan 13, 2015 23:16:45 GMT -5
I was looking back at my older discussion and alley posted a picture of where the wires supposed to go... Why is mine backwards? Was it the problem the whole time? The left pic is my scoot solenoid. The cable with the black tape is going to the battery. i58.tinypic.com/21keedw.pngI don't think there is a backwards in this case. The solenoid is like a switch sort of, the two top terminals do not have a direction. When you press the starter button, the small wire in the middle activates the switch to connect the two top terminals together. The electricity does not need a direction, the raw battery power is connected to one of the terminals and the other terminal is connected to the starter motor. |
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Post by jerseyboy on Jan 14, 2015 9:00:54 GMT -5
Well yes and no,,
The CDI is a closed circuit meaning you really cant get a proper reading from any of the components inside the unit without taking it apart and removing or unsoldering them from the board.But the test will give you an idea if something is flakey.Thats why the test values are so large,,because its just a vague test.
The best way to rule out a CDI being good or bad is to test all the connections on the six way plug that feeds it,and sends voltage to the coil.If that plug tests out good on all of its values then the CDI is more than likely bad,,or the wire from CDI to feed coil primary...and or possibly the spark plug wire that comes out the secondary could be bad too.
I never saw a CDI tester but its just as easy to snap a good known CDI into the plug.
See anybody can just snap a new CDI into the plug/circuit but your not really learning anything about the electronics of the scooter.I myself like to know how and why things work the way they do.Its alot easier to find a problem IMO.
The solenoid terminals are in a series when the switch closes,,thats why you can jump them with a screwdriver to start the motor.You are just completing the 12v circuit to the starter motor.
Tom
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Post by JoeyBee on Jan 14, 2015 11:27:23 GMT -5
I agree, testing all the connections that travel into the CDI will isolate the failure or conclude that the CDI is the failure point.
Or using a spare CDI could test for its failure.
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Post by jerseyboy on Jan 14, 2015 12:10:22 GMT -5
I agree, testing all the connections that travel into the CDI will isolate the failure or conclude that the CDI is the failure point. Or using a spare CDI could test for its failure. Yeah,,they are so cheap I have like 5 of them laying around and two under my seat..lol |
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Post by ksaun123 on Jan 14, 2015 15:34:52 GMT -5
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Post by jerseyboy on Jan 14, 2015 18:56:22 GMT -5
jerseyboy It says it features DC power supply in the description,,if your headlight comes on with the motor you have AC feeding the CDI,,not sure if that one will work for ya...as I have never heard of a dual phase CDI 
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Post by ksaun123 on Jan 15, 2015 22:45:24 GMT -5
So, I worked on my scoot today... Adjusted the brakes like I was told; everything went good, but the brake assembly kept sticking every time I squeeze the brake lever. Guess I should have put brake grease on the part where it rotates/moves the drum.? Didn't realize I still had exhaust studs on my old 125cc cylinder head. So I installed them on my new head that broke off... Wasted $5 Did the cylinder head liquid test. Left rubbing alcohol in there for a few hours and came to find out there was no leaks. Looks like I need a new exhaust, because the one I got installed is too loud even with the exhaust studs on. My exhaust is a little burned, but that was to be expected since my exhaust stud broke off. There is a burnt yellow in the inside of my intake valve on the head. Is that normal? i59.tinypic.com/2nbhz6b.jpgMade a nice secure bracket for my muffler... i59.tinypic.com/29mpxs3.jpgWhen my scoot sits on idle, this is what the high beam light looks like. i59.tinypic.com/292r7nk.jpgGrounding issue I bet. Also, I measured my brake shoes with it still on the scoot and it measured 125mm from outside to outside. Is that how you measure them? Might be 105mm with it off... Didn't have time to do any electrical work today. Also I have a video if interested. Also I noticed that it doesnt go anywhere when I hit the gas, probably because I got a too jet too big.? I did adjust the pin in the carb... huh well I guess I just answered my own question.  |
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Post by jerseyboy on Jan 16, 2015 7:23:49 GMT -5
Nice but rubbing alcohol will evaporate quickly and if it does leak down through the valves it will dry very fast so you wont see it.
I would use an oil based solvent like wd-40,rem oil,break free clp,or a mixture of oil and gas to do the combustion chamber leak test myself.
Glad its coming along,,and yes always save your old parts,,never know when you will need studs or a spacer.Stinks,,I just ordered 2 dowels for my motor and then I found the ones I thought where lost in the bottom of the jug..lol
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