New Rider
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Posts: 3
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Joined: Aug 1, 2014 17:23:45 GMT -5
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Post by gy6scoot on Aug 6, 2014 20:04:03 GMT -5
Can one replace clutch springs to get grunt off the line.seems like is would be a cheap way to get more torque. How do i begin? What to buy?
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Post by scooter on Aug 7, 2014 1:04:10 GMT -5
Can one replace clutch springs to get grunt off the line.seems like is would be a cheap way to get more torque. How do i begin? What to buy? I'm sure you'll get more specific advice from other users but I like to chat. The clutch has a contra spring, the big one, and it holds the clutch pulley closed, so a tighter one will keep you in lower gear, longer. You can also get tighter small springs for the clutch pads that keep the clutch from engaging until you get your RPMs up higher. That might be the grunt you're looking for? Smaller variator weights also keep you in lower gear for longer. I shoot for 6500 RPM at wide open throttle acceleration, for what I assume to be maximum torque for my 150cc gy6.
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Post by rockynv on Aug 7, 2014 3:52:02 GMT -5
Just installing the Hoca 115 mm variator with 12 gram weights made a phenomenal difference on my Lance Vintage. The bike would pull to 45 mph from a stop while crossing a major intersection. All with the standard clutch and no big bore kit. Bike was DC fired and had just a moderately performance coil and CDI which I only installed to replace a failing stock coil and CDI. No clutch disassembley or tinkering and pretty simple to install. Extra benefit was a few more mph top end speed.
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Post by oldchopperguy on Aug 7, 2014 9:08:24 GMT -5
Just installing the Hoca 115 mm variator with 12 gram weights made a phenomenal difference on my Lance Vintage. The bike would pull to 45 mph from a stop while crossing a major intersection. All with the standard clutch and no big bore kit. Bike was DC fired and had just a moderately performance coil and CDI which I only installed to replace a failing stock coil and CDI. No clutch disassembley or tinkering and pretty simple to install. Extra benefit was a few more mph top end speed. I must agree with rockynv...
I had similar experience with my Xingyue 150. I got plenty of acceleration and top-speed to suit me, from my Xingyue, simply by fine-tuning the variator. However, if you DO raise the engagement rpm on the clutch... YUP! You'll get a "slingshot" jackrabbit start... and I strongly suspect THAT is what you're looking for... LOL!!! I would first fine-tune the variator for optimum overall performance. Then, raise the clutch-engagement rpm. Don't go overboard, but a little higher engagement rpm should give you that satisfying "shove in the seat of the pants" you're wanting. OK, clutch-guys please chime in now with clutch-tuning tricks!Ride safe, Leo in Texas
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Post by urbanmadness on Aug 7, 2014 9:57:35 GMT -5
Actually if he wants to do the clutch, he should do that first, then tune the variator. That way everything works together. I do agree tho, the 115mm racing variator is the way to go. I would n't even mess with the clutch. Best bang for the buck.
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Post by rockynv on Aug 7, 2014 11:55:03 GMT -5
I tend to be frugal on upgrades (Ok so I'm CHEAP). With the moderate route going with the Hoca you may see better fuel economy along with the performance increase without the snapping that tend to reduce belt life and put more stress on the gearbox input shaft.
Be mindful that on a GY6 unlike other designs that have a outer bearing in a carrier basket or in the CVT cover itself you have an unsupported clutch shaft that takes all the stress on the two relatively closely spaced bearings inside the gear box. When the bearings that support the clutch shaft inside the gearbox start to fail you get damaging harmonic vibrations that can rattle things to pieces so you end up cracking frames, loosing fenders, destroying muffles and blowing clutches.
If you want a reliable ride go modest on the clutch hit and see if just the variator upgrade will take care of things. If MAX performance regardless of the costs or frequency of downtime is what your after then go hit up the clutch. I am past the MAX and tinkering more often than I absolutely have to and I did mention being frugal so I am inclined to go the simple route that will last the longest.
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Post by pmatulew on Aug 7, 2014 13:29:36 GMT -5
If you just want to experiment for cheap to see what effect it would have....
I went to the hardware store and bought a white plastic PVC coupler that fit nicely over the clutch pulley shaft. After slicing off a 3/8" thick section, I fit that under the base of the torque spring.
My motor was running a bit below the power curve and this very nicely brought my balance point up about 500rpm. Put the motor more in the sweet spot.
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Post by JerryScript on Aug 8, 2014 0:55:53 GMT -5
If you just want to experiment for cheap to see what effect it would have.... I went to the hardware store and bought a white plastic PVC coupler that fit nicely over the clutch pulley shaft. After slicing off a 3/8" thick section, I fit that under the base of the torque spring. My motor was running a bit below the power curve and this very nicely brought my balance point up about 500rpm. Put the motor more in the sweet spot. Would love to see pics of that if ever possible!
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Post by pmatulew on Aug 10, 2014 20:05:33 GMT -5
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Post by JerryScript on Aug 13, 2014 13:02:36 GMT -5
Very cool! Thanks for posting that! I'm of course concerned with how long it will last and what damage it's failure could cause, but very intrigued!
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Post by alleyoop on Aug 13, 2014 14:24:05 GMT -5
That may limit how much the pulley opens to get the belt to drop down as far as possible so it may limit your top end. Also the clutch assembley gets really hot and I would think the PCV would start breaking down and get all over the place and cause problems. I would not recommend that at all. Alleyoop
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Post by pmatulew on Aug 13, 2014 17:22:36 GMT -5
It was an experiment after all. Not meant to last forever. And actually I gained top end. Running well below the power curve as it was, the engine would struggle to run up whatever gears are in there now. By tipping the balance point a little bit it is much more responsive.
With those results in hand I'm more inclined to invest in a heavier spring or the next step lighter sliders to achieve the same results from the other end of the teeter-totter.
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