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Post by alleyoop on Jul 23, 2014 22:41:58 GMT -5
If that is what is happening then it has to be bad gas, did it get rained on water may have gotten into the tank or maybe you just got some bad gas.
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Post by blarboose on Jul 24, 2014 0:03:42 GMT -5
If that is what is happening then it has to be bad gas, did it get rained on water may have gotten into the tank or maybe you just got some bad gas. It did get rained on, but that was on Saturday, and it worked completely fine on Monday, Tuesday, and today, up until I cleaned the carb and replaced the diaphragm. (Didnt ride it on Sunday. Plus, I filled the tank on Monday, two full days AFTER it got rained on. Do you think it could be the actual diaphragm itself? I mean, thats the ONLY things that's changed since it was working last. Do you think its worth it to try and swap the old one back in? |
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Post by alleyoop on Jul 24, 2014 0:07:10 GMT -5
Yes I was going to suggest that, did the new diaphgram come with a needle. Because they do come with different length and thickness of needles so I would put the old one back in and give that a shot. It will only take you all of 5-10 mintues to swap it out.
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Post by blarboose on Jul 24, 2014 0:08:13 GMT -5
Going to try that now. Brb.
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Post by alleyoop on Jul 24, 2014 0:15:22 GMT -5
Good luck hope that does the trick.
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Post by blarboose on Jul 24, 2014 19:04:49 GMT -5
Good luck hope that does the trick. Ok, update: Last night I went down and swapped out the new diaphragm for the old one. That seemed to do the trick. It ran, the throttle worked right, and I tuned the carb to a pretty good point. It was idling at just about 2000, and I got it up to about 7000RPMs at WOT, on the center stand. I was exhausted and needed to sleep, so I didnt take it for a ride at that point to test it. Today, I get up, go to start it... and it wont start. I try starter fluid, and it starts right up, even gets up to 8000RPMs at WOT on the center stand... but it wont idle. At all. Ive adjusted the idle screw, no effect at all. Ive adjusted the mixture screw, no effect at all. What's more, it doesnt even TRY to idle. Like, if I have it up at 3000RPMs or so, and let go of the throttle, it doesnt decrease down slowly down to 2000 (where it SHOULD idle) and like, struggle to stay there or kind of sputter and idle for a second and THEN die. Instead, it drops down to around 2000 and just keeps going. Once it gets down to 2000 the RPMs plummet and the bike just dies. I dont even see how this is possible, considering it was idling fine last night. Like, it was working fine, it idled just fine when I went to bed. Nothing changed over night, therefore, it MUST be in the exact same condition I left it, and therefore it MUST idle at around 2000... I mean thats like the first law of motion. "An object at rest will stay at rest unless acted upon by an outside force." in other words, unless something ACTS ON my bike to make something change, it HAS to be exactly as I left it. Im the only one at home, so unless magical bike pixies flew into my garage and used their pixie magic on my bike, it cant POSSIBLY have changed from when I left it last night. So how it can possibly be failing to idle now, when it idled fine last night, and nothing has CHANGED since then... well I dont even know. |
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Post by alleyoop on Jul 24, 2014 19:40:01 GMT -5
Had one like that a few weeks ago actually on this forum, it was his CDI that was bad and messing with the timing.
If you happen to have a old CDI laying around try a different CDI.
Alleyoop
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Post by blarboose on Jul 24, 2014 20:27:45 GMT -5
I dont have any parts lying around. Id have to order one. Even if I pay for rush shipping, nothing would get here until saturday at the very very earliest. : (
How could the CDI be bad though? I mean, it wasnt bad last night, and like I said, no one is here but me. A part cant just MAGICALLY go bad over night all on its, something has to CAUSE it to go bad. Unless someone broke into my house and messed with my bike without waking me, and left without taking or moving anything, nothing whatsoever happened to the bike overnight that could have CAUSED the CDI to go bad.
Is there anything else I could try? I NEED my bike to working NOW. I already missed work today because it wouldnt run. I CANT miss again tomorrow.
(I apologize for my ranting. Im not trying to be argumentative or anything like that, Im just REAAAAAAALY pissed off at this stupid bike for, esentially, not working for NO REASON. Like, it was working, NOTHING changed, and then it was magically not working. that pisses me off, primarily because its impossible. I mean, if I take a cup and put it on the table and leave it over night, it HAS to still be there in the morning. It cant just MAGICALLY change all on its own. In that same sense, if my bike is working, and I leave it overnight, it HAS to be working EXACTLY the same in the morning. The parts can just MAGICALLY change all on their own.
If you had a computer with windows 7 installed, and you went to bed, and you knew 100% for a FACT that no one touched the computer while you were asleep, you'd be pretty pissed off if you woke up and it just MAGICALLY had windows XP installed all of a sudden, wouldnt you? I mean, its literally physically impossible, but there it is, happening anyway, and youre completely screwed because of it.)
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Post by alleyoop on Jul 24, 2014 21:11:06 GMT -5
CDIs can go bad anytime right after you start it or act up during operation. In your case you have always had a high 3000 rpm high idle which is very high I must say, which indicates advanced timing. Idling up and Dropping rpms is a symptoms of a very rich condition as well as tight valves which will NOT hold low rpms. Any ELECTRICAL item can go bad as soon as it gets voltage to do its thing. Take a bulb as an example they can be working one day then when you go and start it up the next NADA, that sudden surge when you again turned them on blew them same with a CDI or R/R or DIODE. So yes it would seem a little ELF sneaked in at night and messed with your stuff.
So First thing is check your valve gaps set them to .004 inchs to eliminate that being the problem. Then see if it starts better.
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Post by blarboose on Jul 24, 2014 21:32:23 GMT -5
I guess I have to order a CDI then. How do I tell if my bike needs an AC or a DC CDI?
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Post by alleyoop on Jul 24, 2014 21:44:26 GMT -5
Turn the KEY ON and get your multi meter or 12v Light Tester and CHECK the BOTTOM WIRE on the 2 plug on the CDI. That is the wire that feeds voltage to the CDI. If with the KEY ON it registers 12v or if using a 12V light tester it lights up it is a DC CDI if nothing then it is a AC CDI. PM JOHN TVNACMAN, or call him at 347-564-1320 and he may get it shipped overnight for you or something. His banner is on the top page scrolling across. Alleyoop  |
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Post by blarboose on Jul 24, 2014 23:03:18 GMT -5
Turn the KEY ON and get your multi meter or 12v Light Tester and CHECK the BOTTOM WIRE on the 2 plug on the CDI. That is the wire that feeds voltage to the CDI. If with the KEY ON it registers 12v or if using a 12V light tester it lights up it is a DC CDI if nothing then it is a AC CDI. PM JOHN TVNACMAN, or call him at 347-564-1320 and he may get it shipped overnight for you or something. His banner is on the top page scrolling across. Alleyoop Ok, this is probably a stupid question, but... what do I touch the other prong on the multimeter to? O___o Obviously I touch one of the leads from the multimeter to that feed wire, but what do I touch the OTHER lead to? I mean, you cant just test one wire like that, you need TWO contact points... one positive, one negative. EDIT: This is the type of multimeter I have here. It couldnt find a picture of my exact one, but this is the same thing only mine is gray instead of yellow, but its the same design. bmwmotorcycletech.info/radioshack22-810.jpg |
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Post by alleyoop on Jul 24, 2014 23:16:45 GMT -5
The neg you touch ground the red to the wire you testing.
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Post by geh3333 on Jul 24, 2014 23:21:12 GMT -5
I wonder if the enriched ports are dirty .
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Post by alleyoop on Jul 24, 2014 23:28:35 GMT -5
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..BAD TO THE BONE..
