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Post by bille on Jun 20, 2014 17:03:11 GMT -5
Actually, the back wheel spins even before 1000 rpm. As soon as it starts. I'm guessing when you change springs you have to also change the weights? If that's the case, I'm going to put the old springs back on, since I don't want to wait another week for weights.
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Post by bille on Jun 20, 2014 18:57:23 GMT -5
Here is a video of the clutch with the new springs:
And here is a video after it ran for a few minutes:
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Post by alleyoop on Jun 20, 2014 19:14:05 GMT -5
WOW!! That is unbelievable. Let me ask a question When you put on the BELL does it go on WITHOUT rubbing on the CLUTCH PADS? I mean it seems that the CLUTCH PADS are always engaged from the get go.
Alleyoop
GRAB the bell and turn it with your hands, it should turn the wheel BUT NOT the PULLEY or belt around JUST LIKE HE DID IN THE VIDEO at 15 seconds into it.
Watch his CVT after he starts it and it is idling look at the BELL ON THE CLUTCH NOT ROTATING and rear wheel NOT SPINNING at IDLE UNTIL he twists the throttle for more rpms then the BELL spins and turns the rear wheel. So it looks like your clutch pads are always grabbing the bell.
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Post by bille on Jun 20, 2014 19:25:24 GMT -5
I made a short video of the bell and clutch. To me, it does not appear that the clutch is engaged but see for yourself:
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Post by alleyoop on Jun 20, 2014 19:28:24 GMT -5
It sure does not look like it was engaged, now when you did that WAS THE REAR WHEEL TURNNG?
Alleyoop
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Post by bille on Jun 20, 2014 19:31:26 GMT -5
yes, when I turned the bell the rear wheel was spinning with the bell
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Post by alleyoop on Jun 20, 2014 19:50:56 GMT -5
I am truthly stumped my friend, Take that clutch off again and try pushing out a pad with a screwdriver it should be pretty damn hard and not easy as pie. Also notice there should be a pin with a rubber bushing that the pads when retracted snap back on to hold them in. Maybe they are not fully seating back retracted and left to close to the bell actually out some from the retracted position. Alleyoop Here is a pic of the rubber bushing on the pin that the pads retract on.  Here is how to move the Pads out with a screwdriver:  |
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Post by bille on Jun 20, 2014 20:06:16 GMT -5
It's not overly hard to open them, but not easy either. I could't move them with just my fingers, but with the screw driver is wasn't hard. I noticed the little black rubber things and they appear to be seated on them properly when I'm not opening it.
I wonder if the springs are defective? Should I try my old springs?
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Post by alleyoop on Jun 20, 2014 20:44:18 GMT -5
Billie at this point by all means try the old springs That damn clutch should not be throwing out the pads at such low rpms that is the whole problem as you saw when you put on the brakes to stop the wheel from spinning. Also let me ask is that the ORGINAL clutch and bell or did you buy a new clutch or bell.
Alleyoop
P.S where the springs easy to put on or do you have to stretch them to get them on? They may be to long of springs.
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Post by alleyoop on Jun 20, 2014 20:57:54 GMT -5
Here is a good Video by Brent Owner of 49ccscoot.com forum on how to change the springs and which side of the springs go in which hole.
Alleyoop
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Post by bille on Jun 20, 2014 21:18:59 GMT -5
The springs were not easy to put on at all. I put the old ones back on, the wheel starts to spin at around 1400 rpm, but the idle is horrible at anything under 1500-1600 and at that point the wheel seems to be spinning too fast and rpms drop when I hit the brake.
On the bright side, the new intake manifold seems to have fixed the bogging down on throttle.
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Post by alleyoop on Jun 20, 2014 21:31:13 GMT -5
What color are the old springs? In reality the stronger the springs the higher the rpms are needed to produce enough centrifugal force to throw out the Clutch pads to grab the bell and turn the wheel. So maybe you should get even stronger springs.
They have them rated 1000, 1500 and 2000 now those rates are HIGHER RPMS required over the stock springs to throw out the clutch pads. So in your current example the wheel starts to turn say 1300 rpms, so if changing the springs to the 1000 rated springs then it would take around 2300 rpms before the pads got thrown out and grabbed the bell to turn the wheel.
Alleyoop
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Post by bille on Jun 20, 2014 21:34:41 GMT -5
I don't know if this makes a difference or not but I just noticed I might have put it back together incorrectly with the new springs. The plate that is held on by the retention clips *might* had been upside down.
Retrying the new springs to see if there is a difference.
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Post by alleyoop on Jun 20, 2014 21:34:44 GMT -5
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Post by bille on Jun 20, 2014 21:37:04 GMT -5
The old springs are not colored, the new ones are blue. Also, I *think* the new springs are easier to get in, which they shouldn't be. Putting it back together with new springs to see what happens
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..BAD TO THE BONE..