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Post by bille on Jun 9, 2014 13:45:00 GMT -5
I gave that a try, here are two videos of my attempts. At the end of the second video it stalled and wouldn't restart.
and
Again, it stalled at the end of vid2 and wouldn't restart (I'm assuming without more idle screw clockwise.)
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Post by alleyoop on Jun 9, 2014 14:16:44 GMT -5
On the first Video it was running much better and not bogging at around 1600 rpms and starts right up. But I still do not like the rear spinning so fast at those low rpms. One way would be to put in 1000 clutch pad springs which would require about 1000 more rpms to engage the bell to turn the rear wheel.
Did you order a new INTAKE MANIFOLD to replace the one with the leak?
Which belt do you have on the longer one or the Shorter one? The longer one will slow down the rear wheel some.
But I still think there is something wrong really. You may want to eliminate all of the emissions on that thing and just have ONE VACUUM line going to the PETCOCK and the ACV Valve on the CARB. I still think there is a vacuum problem someplace.
Alleyoop
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Post by bille on Jun 9, 2014 14:23:04 GMT -5
On the first Video it was running much better and not bogging at around 1600 rpms and starts right up. But I still do not like the rear spinning so fast at those low rpms. One way would be to put in 1000 clutch pad springs which would require about 1000 more rpms to engage the bell to turn the rear wheel. Did you order a new INTAKE MANIFOLD to replace the one with the leak? Which belt do you have on the longer one or the Shorter one? The longer one will slow down the rear wheel some. But I still think there is something wrong really. You may want to eliminate all of the emissions on that thing and just have ONE VACUUM line going to the PETCOCK and the ACV Valve on the CARB. I still think there is a vacuum problem someplace. Alleyoop I haven't ordered the new intake yet, but I will soon. Was hoping duct tape would be enough to at last keep working on it. I will take out the emissions next and see if it changes anything. |
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Post by alleyoop on Jun 9, 2014 14:30:11 GMT -5
Look around some more especially the emission crap that is on there and see if any hoses or connectors have any cracks.
Now in the VIDEO I did notice the carb where it connects to the INTAKE MANIFOLD sort of moving up and down is the clamp on tight holding it to the INTAKE MANIFOLD. Many times the clamp actually cuts the rubber around where it holds the carb.
Alleyoop
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Post by bille on Jun 9, 2014 14:52:06 GMT -5
I will check that clamp. As for removing the rest of the emissions, I made a vid showing my emission and what I think I need to remove, could you please verify? Also, I'm assuming I need to keep the host coming out of the top of the tank, currently I have it above the tank going to a fuel filter that goes nowhere and just vents.
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Post by bille on Jun 9, 2014 15:04:15 GMT -5
Also, I'm using the larger belt.
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Post by alleyoop on Jun 9, 2014 15:16:17 GMT -5
The tank that is fine you disconnected it from the canister and added a fuel filter to the vent hose coming from your tank. The Vac line going to the "T" that goes to your petcock and carb STAY AS IS that is all you should have after the other stuff is taken off. Now what you have is what they call a PAIR system and that is all that is left of the emissions on it and yes the other VACUUM line on the other side gets plugged. Now to take that off you have to UNSCREW the two bolts that connect the CURVED CHROME pipe to the SIDE OF THE VALVE COVER and put a plate over the hole and use the same bolts to hold the plate over the hole in the head like this:  BLOCK OFF PLATE YOU CAN BUY OR MAKE YOUR OWN:  Then you can take the chrome pipe and valve OFF the valve cover.  |
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Post by alleyoop on Jun 9, 2014 15:39:20 GMT -5
Just so you know I found this VIDEO to show you that at IDLE the REAR WHEEL should not be spinning. The video is really about it bogging at Wide Open Throttle that is just carb not adjusted right so forget about that.
Alleyoop
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Post by jerseyboy on Jun 9, 2014 15:55:29 GMT -5
My attempts at starting today: After running for about two minutes it stalled. Sounds like its still sucking air somewhere..you can use JB weld and fix that manifold up temporarily,,but I would have a new one on the way sure thing... |
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Post by bille on Jun 9, 2014 20:38:54 GMT -5
Do I need two block off plates? One for each side?
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Post by alleyoop on Jun 9, 2014 20:49:21 GMT -5
No just the one like in the picture I put up only where it connects to the head . The chrome pipe will come off taking the two screws holding it to the Valve cover. You will still have that piece left on the valve cover but not the valve and chrome pipe all that goes bye bye.
Plus taking the pair off now when adjusting your valves you have easy access to the valve cover just the 4 bolts and the valve cover is off nothing in the way.
Alleyoop
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Post by bille on Jun 9, 2014 21:11:35 GMT -5
No just the one like in the picture I put up only where it connects to the head . The chrome pipe will come off taking the two screws holding it to the Valve cover. You will still have that piece left on the valve cover but not the valve and chrome pipe all that goes bye bye. Plus taking the pair off now when adjusting your valves you have easy access to the valve cover just the 4 bolts and the valve cover is off nothing in the way. Alleyoop I'm glad you brought up that valve cover! I have some news to share in case you ever work on a 2014 bws. You'll remember I couldn't get that cover off, even after removing the pair, the cover still wouldn't slip past that welded bar. I figured it out by chance the other day. And, you don't even have to remove the pair to get the cover off. It's simple, remove all of the bolts, then take the scooter off of it's stand and the cover will hit the ground. Turns out the center stand moves the entire engine forward, not allowing for enough room to get the cover off. |
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Post by bille on Jun 12, 2014 19:55:41 GMT -5
I just ordered a new intake manifold with a single vac to replace the double I have that's cracked. I also order 1000lb springs and a block off plate...
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Post by alleyoop on Jun 12, 2014 20:07:02 GMT -5
Great Billie, I have my fingers crossed we have been through a lot with your scoot. But I see it as you have now learned a lot and know your scooter rather well and what makes things tick.
Alleyoop
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Post by bille on Jun 20, 2014 15:18:16 GMT -5
I got the parts in.
I replaced the intake with a new one, I removed the pair from the valve cover and blocked off the hole. I pulled the old springs off of the clutch and put new 1000lbs springs on it. I also pulled off the rest of the emissions that was coming from the pair system.
I started it up and attempted to adjust the fuel/air mixture. It would seem that 2.5 turns for that is correct. I then attempted to bring the idle down. I got it down to around 1500 but the back wheel was spinning too fast, compared to the stock springs. I then noticed that the back wheel starts spinning around 1000 rpm, with the stock springs it was around 1400. I took the variator off to check the weights but they were fine. Should I put the old springs back on?
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..BAD TO THE BONE..
