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Post by doublert on Apr 17, 2014 10:39:14 GMT -5
Fixing to order some parts from SE. What is the best clutch? Anybody use a NCY secondary spring seat? Are clutches just the same with different springs in them? Or different fancy paint on them? The NCY 3rd has longer pads, just wondering. What do you use? Just want some input before I order.
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Post by alleyoop on Apr 17, 2014 12:43:05 GMT -5
I have the NCY clutch and BELL, bought it for the extra material on the pads, it grabs more of the bell less slippping. Alleyoop   |
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Post by doublert on Apr 17, 2014 13:07:17 GMT -5
I have the NCY clutch and BELL, bought it for the extra material on the pads, it grabs more of the bell less slippping. Alleyoop Ok, thats the one that I was going to order. what about secondary spring seat? Is it worth getting? |
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Post by alleyoop on Apr 17, 2014 13:19:20 GMT -5
It comes with a little stronger contra spring on it and the rpms needed to be around 3500 before they would be thrown out and grab the clutch bell. I did not like that so I put in the contra spring from the OEM clutch and now grabs the bell around 2300-2500 rpms which I like.
Let me add that if you want stronger clutch pad springs the ones that everyone sells are to long they will not fit the NCY clutch so do not bother getting the colored springs everyone sells. You have to get NCY springs and they are hard to come by.
Alleyoop
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Post by doublert on Apr 17, 2014 13:31:30 GMT -5
It comes with a little stronger contra spring on it and the rpms needed to be around 3500 before they would be thrown out and grab the clutch bell. I did not like that so I put in the contra spring from the OEM clutch and now grabs the bell around 2300-2500 rpms which I like. Let me add that if you want stronger clutch pad springs the ones that everyone sells are to long they will not fit the NCY clutch so do not bother getting the colored springs everyone sells. You have to get NCY springs and they are hard to come by. Alleyoop I already have NCY 2k contra spring, currently I'm running the 1500 contra spring in my clutch now, with NCY 2k clutch springs. |
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Post by alleyoop on Apr 17, 2014 15:03:32 GMT -5
Oh, ok just passing info inlong I ran into with the springs.
Alleyoop
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Post by ltdhpp on Apr 17, 2014 16:45:44 GMT -5
It comes with a little stronger contra spring on it and the rpms needed to be around 3500 before they would be thrown out and grab the clutch bell. I did not like that so I put in the contra spring from the OEM clutch and now grabs the bell around 2300-2500 rpms which I like. Alleyoop I am still perplexed by your apparent misunderstandings about clutch and contra springs. The contra/torque spring has absolutely nothing do do with when the CLUTCH engages. The CLUTCH springs do that. The TORQUE/contra spring is what applies resistant pressure against the TORQUE sheave, changing how easily the rear pulley opens and closes. I ran the NCY 'blue' clutch in my 150cc, after 5-6,000 miles, it is almost completely worn out. It came as part of a complete CVT kit, all the other parts show hardly any wear. |
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Post by alleyoop on Apr 17, 2014 17:02:04 GMT -5
It comes with a little stronger contra spring on it and the rpms needed to be around 3500 before they would be thrown out and grab the clutch bell. I did not like that so I put in the contra spring from the OEM clutch and now grabs the bell around 2300-2500 rpms which I like. Alleyoop I am still perplexed by your apparent misunderstandings about clutch and contra springs. The contra/torque spring has absolutely nothing do do with when the CLUTCH engages. The CLUTCH springs do that. The TORQUE/contra spring is what applies resistant pressure against the TORQUE sheave, changing how easily the rear pulley opens and closes. I ran the NCY 'blue' clutch in my 150cc, after 5-6,000 miles, it is almost completely worn out. It came as part of a complete CVT kit, all the other parts show hardly any wear. Don't be perplexed, your young and with more experience you will learn. Alleyoop |
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Post by geh3333 on Apr 17, 2014 21:39:18 GMT -5
Let's say u have a 2000 main spring and 1500 clutch springs . As your belt travels around the variator at 2000 rpms your clutch pulpy will be spinning slower due to the belt running high in the pulley " it's a ratio thing " . I run a 2000 main and clutch springs but my clutch desent engage until about 4000 rpms . Just because my variator is spinning at 2000 rpms my clutch pulley isn't . So your 2000 main will begin to open before you'd clutch engages , hope u understand . So ur main spring does have an effect on when the clutch springs engage . Alley is right , it is just physics
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Post by geh3333 on Apr 17, 2014 21:54:45 GMT -5
Another explination should be , pretend you variator is a sprocket and you have another sprocket instead of the clutch pulley , now u have chain running from sprocket to sprocket and the same size . In this case your variator " sprocket " will spin at the same rpm as the clutch pulley " spocket " due to them being the same ratio. But in reality the belt rides low in the variator on takeoff and high in the clutch pulley . Hense a lower rpm in the clutch . this means my 2000 rpm main spring will not open until my variator is spinning Near 3700 to 4000 rpms 2000 above idle . So of I had a stock main spring in my pulley it will open sooner which will alow my clutch to allow the clutch springs to engage sooner . So listen to alley .
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Post by alleyoop on Apr 17, 2014 22:01:22 GMT -5
Thank you geh3333 couldn't of explained it better myself. As soon as I took out the 1000 rated Contra spring the Rpms to engage the bell dropped little over 1000K because now the pulley opened and dropped the belt to turn the pulley faster.
Alleyoop
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Post by geh3333 on Apr 17, 2014 22:11:12 GMT -5
No problem , glad to help . I just have to go back and fix a few of my typing mistakes . Lol
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Post by ltdhpp on Apr 17, 2014 23:17:49 GMT -5
Yes, I know how gear ratios work.
That would all almost make sense if the rear pulley opened before the clutch engages, and it does not (if it is set up right).
The belt has to and should stay at the absolute top of the rear pulley before the clutch engages to get the best ratio low gear.
So, if everything is set up correctly, the rear pulley does not even open until after the clutch engages, making the strength of the torque spring 100% insignificant to when the clutch engages, like I said!
I hope you understand.
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Post by ltdhpp on Apr 17, 2014 23:20:46 GMT -5
Thank you geh3333 couldn't of explained it better myself. As soon as I took out the 1000 rated Contra spring the Rpms to engage the bell dropped little over 1000K because now the pulley opened and dropped the belt to turn the pulley faster. Alleyoop LOL... couldn't have said it better? I think you are right. Thank you for just proving my point even more. If your belt is dropping before the clutch engages, you've got it set up wrong, and you are loosing take-off power. |
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Post by alleyoop on Apr 17, 2014 23:52:13 GMT -5
Oh so let me get this right, the belt is sitting at the EDGE of the Clutch PULLEY the Belt is DOWN on the Variator and you start the motor and by your thinking the clutch should engage and be turning your wheel..LOL
So here I IS idling at 1600 rpms the belt is on the edge of the clutch pulley and belt is down in the variator. I start to give it rpms to tell it to Getty-up
horsey, the rpms start to climb the Variator is turning faster the belt starts to move up the variator and OH MY GOD it starts to force the Clutch pulley apart the belt drops down some in the Clutch Pulley and makes it turn faster and wham now there is enough centrifugal force to throw out the Clutch pads and grab the bell and I am off to the races.
That my friend is your lesson for today, oh by the way no charge ..LOL.
Alleyoop
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..BAD TO THE BONE..
