Sophomore Rider
Currently Offline
Posts: 168
Likes: 1
Joined: May 6, 2013 8:28:08 GMT -5
|
Post by keltex78 on Jan 24, 2014 16:06:13 GMT -5
Yesterday, I received a package containing the last of the LED bulbs I need to have my scooter completely converted over to LED (except for the headlights of course). My 244cc Jonway YY250T (Roketa MC 54 clone) scoot uses the following bulbs: - 5W T10 bulbs for the Front Running lights, Instrument Cluster, and License Plate
- 1156-base for both the Front and Rear Turn Signals
- 1157-base for the Brake/Tail Lights
You can't always trust the advertised specs on the LED bulbs so last night, I measured power draw on each style I ordered. Only counting the Always-On bulbs (Tail-Light/Instrument Cluster/License Plate), I will be reducing power draw by ~65W by replacing the factory bulbs with LED! That's 5A less load on the charging system.  Now, what should I do next? I can replace the factory 35W bulbs with a set of compatible automotive-style 50-55W bulbs if the plastic housing and reflector can handle the extra heat... And I would still have surplus power left over!  |
|
|
|
Post by spandi on Jan 24, 2014 19:00:59 GMT -5
I did. After swapping out everything for LEDs (plus an Oregon Motorcycle Parts R/R unit) I put in a set of 55W PIAA headlights (people tell me they can see me coming from half a mile away) As a test I removed my headlight housing, placed it on a table, and put in various bulbs to see if it could take the heat, both with a fan on (to simulate moving in traffic) and with no fan on. Without the fan (and with the super bright halogen bulbs) the plastics could get very hot but nothing melted or burned out. With the fan blowing (however slightly) they stayed relatively cool. But who sits still for any length of time with their lights on? BTW, the electrical base on mine is made for the H4 bulbs and are metal and not plastic.
|
|
Freshman Rider
Currently Offline
Posts: 62 
Likes: 2
Joined: Jan 4, 2014 16:32:44 GMT -5
|
Post by 2wheelfun on Jan 24, 2014 19:18:15 GMT -5
Spandi if those HID lights are those blue blinding low beams folks are using you should be shot then hung just to be sure. Those lights are annoying and dangerous.
|
|
|
|
Post by spandi on Jan 24, 2014 21:53:30 GMT -5
Nope. I avoided those on purpose and went with bright WHITE headlights that won't get you pulled over by the cops or annoy oncoming traffic. (but will get you noticed.)
|
|
Sophomore Rider
Currently Offline
Posts: 168
Likes: 1
Joined: May 6, 2013 8:28:08 GMT -5
|
Post by keltex78 on Jan 25, 2014 21:23:34 GMT -5
Well, as it turns out, I was slight over optimistic on my power savings; The instrument cluster lights on my scooter are 3-watt instead of the standard 5-watt. Also, there are only three instead of four. But still, I reduced power from 12W to ~1W buy installing the LED bulbs. The biggest dissappointment was the cluster signal and high beam indicator bulbs. I had purchased green and blue T10 emitter to replace those, but after tearing the entire cluster down, I found that it was a much smaller wedge-base bulb. I really want to bump up the brightness of the signal indicator lamps as I still forget to turn the signal off from time to time. Also not cool, I had purchased a replacement set of automotive style BA20D bulbs to install, but on doing so, I discovered that the replacement bulbs were rotated by  degrees so my low beams would have been narrow beams instead. One of my factory bulbs has failed on the low beam so I have to order another replacement set and hope I get the right orientation. And then, completely tear down the front end of the bike again to replace those. :-( |
|
|
|
Post by nulldevice on Jan 26, 2014 13:10:53 GMT -5
Yesterday, I received a package containing the last of the LED bulbs I need to have my scooter completely converted over to LED (except for the headlights of course). My 244cc Jonway YY250T (Roketa MC 54 clone) scoot uses the following bulbs: - 5W T10 bulbs for the Front Running lights, Instrument Cluster, and License Plate
- 1156-base for both the Front and Rear Turn Signals
- 1157-base for the Brake/Tail Lights
You can't always trust the advertised specs on the LED bulbs so last night, I measured power draw on each style I ordered. Only counting the Always-On bulbs (Tail-Light/Instrument Cluster/License Plate), I will be reducing power draw by ~65W by replacing the factory bulbs with LED! That's 5A less load on the charging system. Now, what should I do next? I can replace the factory 35W bulbs with a set of compatible automotive-style 50-55W bulbs if the plastic housing and reflector can handle the extra heat... And I would still have surplus power left over! Scooter alternators DO NOT work like car alternators. You have not saved any load on the alternator. You have put an extra 65 watts on the voltage regulator. Find something to use that 65 watts all the time or you will be frying regulators and causing all kinds of electrical havoc. |
|
Freshman Rider
Currently Offline
Break in done.
Posts: 84
Likes: 8
Joined: Jan 26, 2014 23:57:50 GMT -5
|
Post by retrobrian on Jan 27, 2014 0:29:46 GMT -5
All the lights on my 2013 Chelsea are L.E.D. except for the headlight. Do they even make them?
|
|
degrees so my low beams would have been narrow beams instead. One of my factory bulbs has failed on the low beam so I have to order another replacement set and hope I get the right orientation. And then, completely tear down the front end of the bike again to replace those. :-(
