New Rider
Currently Offline
Posts: 41
Likes: 1
Joined: Dec 16, 2013 19:00:05 GMT -5
|
Post by sk8almost44 on Jan 20, 2014 19:17:02 GMT -5
Hey everyone, another issue with my scooter. I recently adjusted my valves, and replaced the engine oil because I DOUBT the previous owner every touched the oil.. I seem to have a leak (I have not ran it before I replaced the oil so I'm not not sure if it was leaking before or after I adjusted valves/replaced oil). Any ideas where I should check/what I can do to fix it? I have attached some pictures and soon a good video that does better than pictures. There seems to be oil droppings coming from these bolts that hold the exhaust? Also there's a vent under the motor (that blows hot air) that seems to have oil dropping from. I'm not too sure.. Thank you! You guys have been great help!
|
|
|
Post by alleyoop on Jan 20, 2014 20:02:28 GMT -5
It looks like it is leaking by the right side of the VALVE COVER. So check by the valve cover on the right side the left side looks dry as your looking at the pictures. You may need a new gasket on the valve cover OR it is not in the groove the valve cover has a groove where the rubber gasket fits into it may be pinched. Alleyoop
|
|
New Rider
Currently Offline
Posts: 41
Likes: 1
Joined: Dec 16, 2013 19:00:05 GMT -5
|
Post by sk8almost44 on Jan 21, 2014 11:32:44 GMT -5
Will do! I was too afraid of tightening it too much because last time I broke the bolts. I will let you know later I will not have time today to check. Thank you
|
|
|
Post by alleyoop on Jan 21, 2014 13:38:31 GMT -5
Yes do not crank on the bolts just nice and snuge if the gasket is doing it's job and its still in good shape and not smashed they will not leak. Also try to do it when the motor is cold, as you know heat will make things expand and it will help seal. Alleyoop
|
|
|
Post by scootdoggydog on Jan 23, 2014 16:31:08 GMT -5
why is there a black tube or cable running under the exhaust pipe?
|
|
|
Post by alleyoop on Jan 23, 2014 16:39:08 GMT -5
GOOD CATCH Scootdog, it looks like his throttle cable and it should be going over the motor to his carb not under where it can get caught on something or burn through the protected sheave. Alleyoop
|
|
New Rider
Currently Offline
Posts: 41
Likes: 1
Joined: Dec 16, 2013 19:00:05 GMT -5
|
Post by sk8almost44 on Jan 26, 2014 17:05:25 GMT -5
thanks again guys! Moved that cable above and i'ma order another gasket because I'm afraid to tighten it anymore. The gasket does look a little damaged inside..
Also my horn doesn't work! What are some testing routes or things I can look for?? Fuse is good, and everything is connected. :/
Also it's a pain in the but to start! Takes over 50 kicks! If I electric start the battery just drains and dies. Do I need to gap a NGK sparkplug once I purchase it, or is it just plug in play? Also what are some other things I can check for hard starting?
Thank you!
|
|
|
Post by JerryScript on Jan 26, 2014 20:19:30 GMT -5
You said you set your valves, what did you set them too? Hard starting is very often the result of improper valve lash.
Have you tested your enricher? If you take it off and then turn your key on, the pin should expand out retract after 2-5 minutes (thanks for catching that alleyoop!).
Have you adjusted the air/fuel mixture so that you achieve the highest idle possible, then adjust the idle down till your wheel stops spinning during idle?
These are the main issues with hard starting other than electrical. Rule these issues out, then you can move on to the ignition system if you still have hard starting problems.
|
|
|
Post by alleyoop on Jan 27, 2014 20:59:34 GMT -5
The ENRICHER Cold (BY DEFAULT) should be RETRACTED and in this position it should feed extra fuel for cold starts. Then once the motor starts it feeds voltage to the ENRICHER to heat up the element and the Valve and needle start to EXTEND to shut off the extra fuel within usually 3-4 minutes or so. You can test if it is the problem, take the ENRICHER off and lay it on its side and then COVER the hole with your THUMB and hold it there and try starting the motor. If it's the problem lack of fuel it will start much better, leave your thumb on the hold(that makes suck fuel as the ENRICHER WOULD while retracted). Alleyoop
|
|
New Rider
Currently Offline
Posts: 41
Likes: 1
Joined: Dec 16, 2013 19:00:05 GMT -5
|
Post by sk8almost44 on Feb 9, 2014 16:54:17 GMT -5
I think it was because it was really cold.. it's working now at 33F degrees. I am having another leak in the back near the rear wheel..
|
|
New Rider
Currently Offline
Posts: 19
Likes: 0
Joined: Feb 9, 2014 20:36:04 GMT -5
|
Post by wideopen on Feb 9, 2014 21:00:47 GMT -5
looks like you have a bad crank seal you need to take the cvt cover off to get a better view.
|
|
|
Post by alleyoop on Feb 10, 2014 0:03:58 GMT -5
That oil is black so it probably is your Crank Oil Seal behind the Variator. The oil will usually flow along the bottom of the CVT cover and come out the back. If it was your tranny oil it would not be black. Alleyoop
|
|
|
Post by alleyoop on Feb 10, 2014 0:16:11 GMT -5
If it is leaking by the Crank Oil seal here is what it looks like behind the Variator: Alleyoop
|
|
New Rider
Currently Offline
Posts: 41
Likes: 1
Joined: Dec 16, 2013 19:00:05 GMT -5
|
Post by sk8almost44 on Mar 4, 2014 22:05:59 GMT -5
Hey guys sorry I kinda abandoned this thread, I had to move into a new house so i've been moving and the weather is so cold I can't even get a day to look at it! anyways, finally moved, had enough money to buy a 6 gal air compressor and a 1/2 inch socket drill and got the variator bolt off! Here's where I'm at: I can't get behind that gear to see the seal!
|
|
|
Post by alleyoop on Mar 4, 2014 22:17:02 GMT -5
Your going to need a gear puller to get at the seal. But the question is, Is that where it is leaking from? Alleyoop
|
|