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Post by korn858 on Nov 21, 2013 14:48:25 GMT -5
So, I got done doing my 500 mile tune up. Adjust valves. fixed a small oil leak in the cooler line. Snorkel for uni was cracked so, I halved it, now ~5 inches. Plug chop showed running a little lean, so put in 120 main jet, from 115. After some driving the engine wasn't as strong in the mid range, and hesitated. Went back to the 115, which is where it was before tune up, and now I get some popping noise as I hit the mid range 15+mph and continues. I also, get a little bit of hesitation at acceleration that wasn't there before. I checked for air leak/vacuum leaks, none found. I checked the plug, and it looks coffee colored on one side, and black on the other. Any ideas are welcomed at this point.
Thank you
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Post by korn858 on Nov 21, 2013 15:53:43 GMT -5
Ok, so I raised the needle up two notches, and it's back to about % of where it was before. Still not sure what would of caused the change, but it is what it is. Now I get an occasional popping when I get up to about 45-50.
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Post by alleyoop on Nov 21, 2013 16:07:25 GMT -5
What you did was change the air flow when you shorten the Air Tube. Alleyoop
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Post by korn858 on Nov 21, 2013 16:27:38 GMT -5
I had a feeling, but wasn't sure, thank you for clarifying that. So, now I'm one notch from the top of the needle, and as I said before I'm % back to normal. Would putting in a 120, and drop the needle one notch be a good idea, or should I just max out the adjustment and keep the 115. Won't be able to work on it again till tomorrow.
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Post by alleyoop on Nov 21, 2013 17:02:37 GMT -5
I had a feeling, but wasn't sure, thank you for clarifying that. So, now I'm one notch from the top of the needle, and as I said before I'm % back to normal. Would putting in a 120, and drop the needle one notch be a good idea, or should I just max out the adjustment and keep the 115. Won't be able to work on it again till tomorrow. Well it is popping accelerating which means it is to RICH, so putting in the 120 will be worse, keep the 115 and move the clip all the way to the top and see if that is enough fuel taken away. You can also lean out the mixture with the Fuel Ratio Mixture screw turning that CLOCKWISE. Alleyoop
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Post by korn858 on Nov 21, 2013 19:26:52 GMT -5
Ok, I will try the A/F method first... Warm bike up real good, and no more than a quarter turn at a time; if I remember right. Thank you for your help... you have no idea.
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Post by alleyoop on Nov 21, 2013 20:36:02 GMT -5
Good luck Hope it fixs the problem. Alleyoopeix
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Post by korn858 on Nov 24, 2013 20:09:45 GMT -5
Ok, it's back running better than ever. I ended up dropping the needle one notch, now third down from the top, and up jetting to a 120. Smooth power throughout. Thank you very much Alleyoop for all your help.
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Post by alleyoop on Nov 24, 2013 21:08:23 GMT -5
Ok, it's back running better than ever. I ended up dropping the needle one notch, now third down from the top, and up jetting to a 120. Smooth power throughout. Thank you very much Alleyoop for all your help. Well I am confused, you did everything the OPPOSITE of what I said?? Now when a motor makes popping sounds accelerating the motor is getting to much fuel that is a fact. So maybe your describing the sound wrong not POP POP sound, because what you just did is FED it even more fuel?? Alleyoop
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Post by millsc on Nov 24, 2013 21:25:12 GMT -5
The 150s are picky I can run a 125 jet with clip at the bottom notch or a 115 with clip one from the top runs good either way so I choose the smaller jet for better gas mileage
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Post by doublert on Nov 24, 2013 23:32:23 GMT -5
Well I hope my 112.5 jet works out for my Bbk, big valve head, and A10 cam.....
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Post by alleyoop on Nov 25, 2013 1:40:06 GMT -5
The 150s are picky I can run a 125 jet with clip at the bottom notch or a 115 with clip one from the top runs good either way so I choose the smaller jet for better gas mileage If your saying you found your 150 picky with the A13 cam then yea I would agree. Your 150 is setup for lots of low end power nothing on top also lower rpms. The A13 cam has a longer duration keeping the valves open longer to suck in more fuel and air. That makes then harder to adjust to run good at low rpms and mid-range balancing the fuel and air for those throttle positions. The top end is a wash with a longer duration cam they usually just waste a log of gas on you. Alleyoop
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Post by alleyoop on Nov 25, 2013 1:42:55 GMT -5
The 150s are picky I can run a 125 jet with clip at the bottom notch or a 115 with clip one from the top runs good either way so I choose the smaller jet for better gas mileage That is a huge difference in fuel flow with a 125 with the needle all the way up to a 115 with the needle almost all the way down. If your saying you found your 150 picky with the A13 cam then yea I would agree. Your 150 is setup for lots of low end power nothing on top also lower rpms. The A13 cam has a longer duration keeping the valves open longer to suck in more fuel and air. That makes then harder to adjust to run good at low rpms and mid-range balancing the fuel and air for those throttle positions. The top end is a wash with a longer duration cam they usually just waste a log of gas on you. Alleyoop
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Post by millsc on Nov 25, 2013 9:39:07 GMT -5
I like my low end torque since I ride in town my top speed isn't miraculous around 60 GPS I may switch cams in the spring
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Post by korn858 on Nov 25, 2013 12:05:04 GMT -5
The reason I tried it that way is because, when I was done with the tune up, and upjetted to the 120 it ran rough slight popping in the mid-range, but better than when I tried the 115. When I put the 115 in and went up two notches it was a little better than the original 120, but still not there. So, I figured maybe the 120 just needed a little needle adjustment to get me in the sweet spot. I'm glad it worked out. As for the cam and what not. I have no idea what's inside this engine, although I know it must be different. I can't get this one to go over 6200 rpm, and that's with the speedo buried at 80 (70+) gps. So, maybe the internals have something to do with it.
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