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Post by clyffcarlock on Mar 13, 2013 7:26:28 GMT -5
I have a 2008 roketa mc-08-50. Just adjusted the valves at .05mm both intake and exhaust.
Starts right up, but wants to die and not idle. I set the idle higher, but seems to idled itself down on its own if that is possible. When started, it idles high for a few seconds and gradually idles down until it wants to die.
Fuel seems to go fast... if my fuel gauge is right!?!?!?, or if there is a leak, but i have not found any parked... could be leaking if i was riding but have no way to check that.
To update: It is very hard to start when it is cold this time of the year, but when the scooter has warmed up, it starts easy, but idles high for a short time then idles low and then dies.
Really like the quick start up, but would really like to figure this out soon. I know someone has the answer or have came across the same problem and fixed it. L
Your help is very much appreciated.
Thank you.
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Wildfire WFH150-S 10,000+ Chinometer
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Post by ericrockstar on Mar 13, 2013 7:57:43 GMT -5
I would check the a/f screw. Make sure it contains all the parts. Take it all the way out. Should be a spring and washer pressing an o ring on the inside. Clean the carb while your at it.
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Post by terrilee on Mar 13, 2013 8:15:00 GMT -5
id pop the valve cover off, make sure both the timing mark and the 'holes' are lined up and your adjustment didnt slip.
1st 2-3 times mine slipped loose
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Post by skuttadawg on Mar 13, 2013 12:16:13 GMT -5
My Echarm did that just before coming to stop it would stall and often die but start right back up . The valves were loose and adjustment it was new again . Recheck the clearances when it cold
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Post by alleyoop on Mar 13, 2013 12:30:26 GMT -5
If it idles up and the idle starts to drop and drop and dies it is to RICH to much fuel. The FUEL RATIO screw is in front of the carb UNDERNEATH the throat where it attaches to the INTAKE MANIFOLD(PITA TO GET AT I MIGHT ADD). It may have a plastic cap over it so you have to take the cap off to get at the screw. To Lean it out turn the screw CLOCKWISE 1/4 turns at a time you want to get the highest IDLE out of the adjustment. After adjusting getting the highest idle if the rear wheel is spinning use the IDLE SPEED screw to lower your idle. Alleyoop  |
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2008 Roketa MC54B 257 (10,000 miles and climbing)
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Post by bhinch on Mar 13, 2013 14:10:56 GMT -5
The proper adjustment of the valves is .004 intake and .005 or .006 exhaust. This is not mm it is in inches. Use a flat feeler guage to set. I have 9100 miles on mine and I have adjusted the valves just one time. The adjustment of the valves is a big deal and it makes the engine run correctly. Enjoy....
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2008 Roketa MC54B 257 (10,000 miles and climbing)
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Post by bhinch on Mar 13, 2013 14:18:52 GMT -5
The engine is an air pump and it has to have a sealed cylinder to make compression, so the valves have to be properly adjusted. The fuel pump and carb require it.  |
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Post by skuttadawg on Mar 13, 2013 16:49:56 GMT -5
Do you have the gas tank in the floorboard or under the seat ? Those in the floor can be tweaked with a Mikuni fuel pump to replace the stock one
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Post by alleyoop on Mar 13, 2013 17:25:32 GMT -5
A different pump will do nothing for his problem of IDLING up and slowly dropping rpms and dying. It has nothing to do with the problem.
Alleyoop
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Post by earlwb on Mar 13, 2013 21:29:02 GMT -5
It is typically that the valves need adjusting. When the valve gaps close up to zero then the valves tend to stay open at low speed (idling) and the engine stalls out when you try to idle or stopping at stop signs or stoplights. The engine may run fine when cold but after it warms up good is when you see it happen.
I would suggest adjusting the valves.
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Post by clyffcarlock on Mar 13, 2013 23:10:34 GMT -5
To update: It is very hard to start when it is cold this time of the year, but when the scooter has warmed up, it starts easy, but idles high for a short time then idles low and then dies.
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Post by skuttadawg on Mar 13, 2013 23:50:31 GMT -5
The faster idle at startup is from the enricher or electric choke as my 2T does this too . A size up in idle jet may help . Many have a sealed carb and I would suggest getting one where you can remove the bowl , adjust the air/fuel screw and change the needle clip . They are as low as 30 and up for a carb . Cracked , pinched or collapsed vacuum lines can make it not run good . Most of the time if the valves are too tight it will not or is hard to startup and can die when warm as they do not open enough to allow the needed flow or air and gas .
How does it run when warm on take off and top end ?
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Post by gatekeeper on Mar 15, 2013 0:33:29 GMT -5
The proper adjustment of the valves is .004 intake and .005 or .006 exhaust. This is not mm it is in inches. Use a flat feeler guage to set. I have 9100 miles on mine and I have adjusted the valves just one time. The adjustment of the valves is a big deal and it makes the engine run correctly. Enjoy.... +1 Set your valve gaps to .004 INCHES on the intake and .005 INCHES on the exhaust. At .005 MM (equals about .0002 inches) yours are way too tight. |
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Post by clyffcarlock on Mar 15, 2013 9:03:29 GMT -5
UPDATE: I checked my feeler gauge and i was mistaken. I actually adjusted my valves to 0.05 mm. I have no 0.005mm gauge.  |
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Post by richardthescooter1 on Mar 15, 2013 12:44:53 GMT -5
If you have inch feeller gauge .004 intake .005 exaust |
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..BAD TO THE BONE..
