over-torqued head bolt  By  dystopias (Read 1,834 times)

This

upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/en/4/40/ImpactDriverWithBits.png

You have to heat the bolt almost to red hot ,15-20 won't cut it . And you need to heat the whole bolt not just one spot , well maybe not the whole entire bolt but in a general all around area not in one spot . The bolt will come out but has to be realy realy hot . 30 years as a auto/truck/motorcycle mechanic I've worked on everything from chain saw motors to tractor trailer rigs lol ....heat and lots of it will get the bolt out .

I don't think he would risk them just by heating the bolt. The cylinder itself will disparate the heat from the bolt realy well like its designed to do . The bolt is the target . Now I can see if he doesn't watch we're the heat from the torch is going he could hit the chain guid with some unwanted exposer and warp it or worst but crank seals and stuff should be fin . You not actually wanting the bolt glowing red hot but close to it . I once had this awesome pair of bolt extractors would take head bolts out of anything ....also pay out the for them too ...were like $170-190 for a set of 10. Had a Honda urban express 50 once that snapped the head bolt on just like that , used plenty of heat and came out no problem.

Aluminum is a tricky thing to safely heat with a welding torch. It does not turn red when it gets hot and melts suddenly with little warning to the untrained eye.

If you do not have a good new set of real vice grips then you should invest in a new pair and try again. On a stud that small and apparently stuck that tight slotting it may not be a very good idea. After putting a very thin washer over what is left I would file 2 flat spots on the sides of what is left and use a new pair of ViceGrips to loosen it.

Sometimes this model works better on some stubborn studs:

www.irwin.com/tools/locking-tools/the-original-locking-wrenches

If you heat the stud it will expand making it tighter and possibly embrittling it so it may fracture when you try to remove it. The trick would be to heat the casting around the stud so it will expand away from it to loosen it.

Striking tools work well on solid castings however this is an aluminum flange which can be easily distorted or cracked with a striking tool so I would not reccomend heavey use of one.

I was head of plant maintenance and had to deal with folks using the wrong method to loosen parts which cost me dearly especially when the equipment was high end and foreign made with no stock of repair parts in the US. The pre-civl war equipment was easier to deal with asside from removing bolts that had been set for 100+ years and not made to current SAE Standards.

Remember that GY6 heads can be very fussy and crack very easily especially once the flange on the block becomes distorted.