|
|
Post by jeepsteve92xj on Jun 27, 2013 19:35:44 GMT -5
more than 20 seconds - heat the aluminum around the stud. I would heat it for a bit, then a shot of PB blaster or WD40 or whatever your handy penetration fluid is, just against the stud so it can get sucked into the threads - This also cools the stud a little. Heating and expanding the aluminum and cooling shrinking the stud is what I would aim for.
I would try and cut the groove a bit deeper - as deep as possible without wrecking the case.
|
|
|
|
Post by scootnwinn on Jun 27, 2013 22:08:32 GMT -5
Get a screw driver tipped hammer actuated impact driver it will take it out with one hard blow of a BFH
|
|
|
|
Post by scootnwinn on Jun 27, 2013 22:12:34 GMT -5
|
|
|
|
Post by onewheeldrive on Jun 27, 2013 23:15:58 GMT -5
I wound up getting my replacements (4 total), and I'm glad I still have 3 if needed someday. I really hope you get it out dude.  |
|
Sophomore Rider
Currently Offline
Posts: 166
Likes: 0
Joined: Jun 9, 2013 7:36:35 GMT -5
|
Post by freefour1968 on Jun 28, 2013 3:37:04 GMT -5
You have to heat the bolt almost to red hot ,15-20 won't cut it . And you need to heat the whole bolt not just one spot , well maybe not the whole entire bolt but in a general all around area not in one spot . The bolt will come out but has to be realy realy hot . 30 years as a auto/truck/motorcycle mechanic I've worked on everything from chain saw motors to tractor trailer rigs lol ....heat and lots of it will get the bolt out .
|
|
Sophomore Rider
Currently Offline
Rear wheel drive
Posts: 207
Likes: 0
Joined: Mar 9, 2013 0:05:20 GMT -5
|
Post by justin010304 on Jun 28, 2013 6:37:53 GMT -5
The issue of heating it that hot is risk of damaging crank seal and or chain guide depending what side it is on.
|
|
Sophomore Rider
Currently Offline
Posts: 166
Likes: 0
Joined: Jun 9, 2013 7:36:35 GMT -5
|
Post by freefour1968 on Jun 28, 2013 22:52:42 GMT -5
I don't think he would risk them just by heating the bolt. The cylinder itself will disparate the heat from the bolt realy well like its designed to do . The bolt is the target . Now I can see if he doesn't watch we're the heat from the torch is going he could hit the chain guid with some unwanted exposer and warp it or worst but crank seals and stuff should be fin . You not actually wanting the bolt glowing red hot but close to it . I once had this awesome pair of bolt extractors would take head bolts out of anything ....also pay out the for them too ...were like $170-190 for a set of 10. Had a Honda urban express 50 once that snapped the head bolt on just like that , used plenty of heat and came out no problem.
|
|
|
|
Post by onewheeldrive on Jun 29, 2013 0:21:29 GMT -5
The issue of heating it that hot is risk of damaging crank seal and or chain guide depending what side it is on. It's the upper left head bolt-- the crank seal(oil seal?) and chain guide/area isn't really an issue. I'm a little concerned about the base of the engine, although I'm not sure heating it to near or red hot, would be a problem. |
|
|
|
Post by rockynv on Jun 29, 2013 6:40:59 GMT -5
Aluminum is a tricky thing to safely heat with a welding torch. It does not turn red when it gets hot and melts suddenly with little warning to the untrained eye. If you do not have a good new set of real vice grips then you should invest in a new pair and try again. On a stud that small and apparently stuck that tight slotting it may not be a very good idea. After putting a very thin washer over what is left I would file 2 flat spots on the sides of what is left and use a new pair of ViceGrips to loosen it. Sometimes this model works better on some stubborn studs: www.irwin.com/tools/locking-tools/the-original-locking-wrenchesIf you heat the stud it will expand making it tighter and possibly embrittling it so it may fracture when you try to remove it. The trick would be to heat the casting around the stud so it will expand away from it to loosen it. Striking tools work well on solid castings however this is an aluminum flange which can be easily distorted or cracked with a striking tool so I would not reccomend heavey use of one. I was head of plant maintenance and had to deal with folks using the wrong method to loosen parts which cost me dearly especially when the equipment was high end and foreign made with no stock of repair parts in the US. The pre-civl war equipment was easier to deal with asside from removing bolts that had been set for 100+ years and not made to current SAE Standards. Remember that GY6 heads can be very fussy and crack very easily especially once the flange on the block becomes distorted. |
|
|
|
Post by sailracer on Jun 29, 2013 10:21:18 GMT -5
Me Too rocky, How about when the operators, or some mechanic takes a pipe wrench to a jammed up shaft, and you need to replace a sprocket, gear, or bearing? I expressly forbade anyone in my plant to go near a machine with a pipe wrench |
|
|
|
Post by shalomrider on Jun 29, 2013 20:47:23 GMT -5
howdy, this comment is un-necessary at this point, but for the future, i think there are anti seize or other lubes that need to go on the headbolt before trying to install it so that the torque you apply is actually tightening the bolt instead of just twisting it off. it appears you may have cross threaded? i guess that is highly unlikely but you should clean out the threads in the block before re installing that bolt should you be so blessed as to get it out.
lotsa miles and smiles to ya
ken
|
|
jet
