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Post by justpassinthru on Jun 19, 2013 21:23:44 GMT -5
To make the simple complicated, and a short story long...I'll begin at the beginning.
Or where I left off...where Vog, doe and me had a close encounter of the worst kind.
Busted tupperware but rolling...so let's run the snot out of it. Back and forth to work - I work in a dusty enviro.
Okay...good so far. But I started getting a funny exhaust-sound change.
This afternoon, on a cold start...it came together. Loose freakin' spark plug!
Except...I haven't had the tupperware off. Brand new, this thing had a cam chain fail. Back to (former) dealer; repairs took ten months.
I've changed the oil and THAT IS IT.
So...with no manual, no warranty, no dealer...how, short of an axe, do I get the fantastic-plastic off and the engine naked?
When I find the loose plug I know I will...what is it to be torqued to, with its aluminum head?
And...FINALLY...I'll just bet (after finding other shop damage) they may have stripped out the plug socket; and then jury-rigged it to get it off their property. IF that's the case, is there a repair, like a Heli-Coil?
If not, where can I find a head for a Xingyue 300, designed from who-knows-what?
Thanks to one and all.
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Post by spandi on Jun 19, 2013 21:50:33 GMT -5
Geez! I have been following your story on this. (and the Burgy before it) your luck with scoots seems to be jinxed
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Post by sailracer on Jun 19, 2013 21:59:04 GMT -5
yeah a helicoil works, but you have to remove the head.
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Post by trailheadmike on Jun 19, 2013 22:01:35 GMT -5
justpassinthru - there was a perfect thread on the old scoot dawg site to do this but all the pictures have been deleted. As luck would have it I printed it out long ago. Send me a personal message with your email and I'll scan it and send you a pdf.
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Post by justpassinthru on Jun 19, 2013 22:14:11 GMT -5
justpassinthru - there was a perfect thread on the old scoot dawg site to do this but all the pictures have been deleted. As luck would have it I printed it out long ago. Send me a personal message with your email and I'll scan it and send you a pdf. Check your PMs. I've got exactly half the miles you have on yours...I wonder. Will I make 8000 on mine?
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Post by trailheadmike on Jun 19, 2013 22:16:38 GMT -5
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Post by richardthescooter1 on Jun 20, 2013 10:36:41 GMT -5
Justpassingthru, And when I thought I had the bad luck scooter My spark plug wrench it down tight, (but don'r over do it) Hope you get the scooter fix. Sending you some good luck ;D BTW my scoot is almost 16,000 miles and its Chinses
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Post by trailheadmike on Jun 20, 2013 10:53:38 GMT -5
I was taught to screw in the plug finger tight, then a 1/4 turn with the wrench.
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Post by richardthescooter1 on Jun 20, 2013 11:22:48 GMT -5
trailheadmike, thats about what I do DX
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Post by teskow on Jun 20, 2013 15:07:38 GMT -5
On my Linhai 300 I had to remove lots of plastic, battery etc, literally the whole rear section to remove the tub to get at the engine. The last time I had the tub out I split the front 1/2 from the rear 1/2 so I don't have to remove the whole tub (rear section) now to get at the engine. It was a bit of work but now I don't have to remove much to get the front portion of the tub out. I have no idea why the designers didn't do it that way as I see no structural loss by having it split.I can now get the front portion of the tub off, exposing the engine in 15 min. or so. I also eliminated the gas shock that was supposed to hold up the seat but was weak and twisted the seat anyway so I just eliminated it. I now hold the seat up with a stick. The same one I use to measure the fuel level. It is accurate and the fuel gage isn't Disconnecting the gas shock was a pain to deal with in getting the tub out, it isn't any more now. KISS engineering is good.
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Post by trailheadmike on Jun 20, 2013 15:18:46 GMT -5
teskow - glad to hear that I'm not crazy! I take out the cotter pin on the seat and prop it up with a stick too. When I had to change my brake lights I ended up taking my dremel tool and cutting access holes in the back of the tub rather than remove it. When its time to remove/clean the carb I plan on doing exactly what you did for access. Great minds must think alike.
-Mike
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Post by justpassinthru on Jun 20, 2013 22:32:51 GMT -5
The bad luck continues.
I started taking it apart...had some time today, not much. Near as I could tell, I couldn't peel down the sides and underskirt without first taking the nose apart...like dismantling a building. Start at the top, and all the way down and back.
Except it was up front that I had the collision damage. And, sure enough, the lower shell-frame broke in two...it was already heavily damaged, but it was in one piece. Until I started mucking with it.
Then...that wasn't enough. The top and bottom dash moldings, that meet where the top of the glove-box is...a big chunk of that was broken, also, wrapping to the edge of the glove-box door. The two seem GLUED together...I can see where they're molded separately, but the fasteners are plastic with no threads and are inside. I know they're two different molds as there was a lot of damage on the one side.
But I couldn't get the blingin' things over the handlebar! I was out of patience; and low on time...I took my Leatherman and cut two inches at the glued joint to separate upper from lower. Got them around the neck of the front fork that way.
Except of course, now I've completely farkled up the plastic. No going back; all the new tupperware will cost probably three hundred plus change. Three hundred...on a machine with no support; a machine with questionable mechanicals? My plan was to run it until the tires were bald and sell it for whatever I could get.
A local auction house already had it up there, in one piece...with a $750 reserve, it didn't sell. NOW...it's valueless.
But...I did get to where I could reach to the spark plug. I've more tupperware to break; but I was able to reach in. AND...find out, nope, the plug doesn't feel loose.
More removal before I can take it out and see what's what. Anyone ever try to rig up a VOG or Burgman, naked? What did you do for lights, especially headlights? How about foot pegs?
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Post by trailheadmike on Jun 21, 2013 5:50:18 GMT -5
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Post by justpassinthru on Jun 21, 2013 7:49:44 GMT -5
[replyingto=trailheadmike]trailheadmike[/replyingto]The PDI was. It'll be more useful when/if I put it together again. As will be the other thread...thanks for the link.
Searching VOG gets nothing on the board, as a search has to be four or more letters. So you found these; I don't know how, but thanks.
Looking at the second thread...the thing actually looks pretty nifty with the junk off. I may leave it that way; and then I'll be actually able to DO maintenance!
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Post by jerseyboy on Jun 21, 2013 8:15:34 GMT -5
[replyingto=trailheadmike]trailheadmike[/replyingto]All new plugs have a compression/crush washer,,so if installing a NEW plug dont be afraid to crank it down to crush the washer,,you will feel it bottom out,,then just give it a little snuggin.After the washer is used you wont feel the same resistance as the new one cause the washer will be crushed,,so just snug it up.Just dont be afraid to crush the washer on the new plug or it will leak.No more than 10-12 foot Lbs...or 80- inch lbs.Will do fine Tom
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