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Post by jerseyboy on Jun 19, 2013 20:10:39 GMT -5
Hi guys,, When I changed the oil on my scoot today I only took out the filter drain cap,,when it stopped coming out I tilted the bike to the right then more cam out,,then I pulled the other drain plug and nothing came out,,so I say if you only want to remove one drain plug(filter)you will be fine as long as you tilt the bike over to the right side to slosh the rest from the other side out.
Also,,how long before we can switch to full synthetic 600 miles or so??
Thanks Tom
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Post by scootdoggydog on Jun 19, 2013 20:14:15 GMT -5
1000 and if i were only going to drain using 1 plug it would be the side i always get more out that way and then crank the engine over too
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Post by scootdoggydog on Jun 19, 2013 20:15:06 GMT -5
did you measure to see how much oil came out total?
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Post by jerseyboy on Jun 19, 2013 20:19:05 GMT -5
[replyingto=scootdoggydog]scootdoggydog[/replyingto]Yeah just shy of a quart that I put in last week...
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Post by larrball on Jun 19, 2013 21:05:03 GMT -5
1000 and if i were only going to drain using 1 plug it would be the side i always get more out that way and then crank the engine over too On a 139QMB I would drain it from the drain plug that has the screen filter in it (right side if you are faceing forward) if i only had to drain just one.
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Post by jerseyboy on Jun 19, 2013 21:50:05 GMT -5
[replyingto=larrball]larrball[/replyingto]Thats the one I used,,if you tilt the bike it will all come out..
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Post by rockynv on Jun 20, 2013 4:18:50 GMT -5
You should use the one with the oil screen but resist the urge to crank the engine dry bone dry as you can end up doing more harm than good. It is bad enough starting the engine after an oil change never mind one where you have completely evacuated the oil pump by cranking it dry.
On syntheic it is a total waste of money as over the life of a GY6 you will have spent over the cost of the bike on synthetic oil without seeing extended oil changes or other financial paybacks from using it. You will still have to change the oil every 500 miles usning synthetic on an unfiltered GY6.
On a bike with a filter rated for synthetic oil then it is different as you typically will be able to go 6,200 miles between oil changes so that one quart of synthetic replaces a number of quarts of regular oil and gives you savings on the associated oil filter replacment costs.
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Post by scootdoggydog on Jun 20, 2013 6:04:59 GMT -5
The technical advantages of synthetic motor oils include Measurably better low- and high-temperature viscosity performance at service temperature extremes Better chemical & shear stability Decreased evaporative loss Resistance to oxidation, thermal breakdown, and oil sludge problems Extended drain intervals with the environmental benefit of less oil waste. Improved fuel economy in certain engine configurations. Better lubrication during extreme cold weather starts Longer engine life Superior protection against "ash" and other deposit formation in engine hot spots (in particular in turbochargers and superchargers) for less oil burnoff and reduced chances of damaging oil passageway clogging. Increased horsepower and torque due to less initial drag on engine Does not contain detergents
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Post by jerseyboy on Jun 20, 2013 8:20:41 GMT -5
I know there will always be a debate on synthetics,,but I only pay $6 for my Rotella at walmart once a month maybe,,so its worth it to me,,I never believed in those so called motorcycle brand(snake oils)that cost $12-20 a quart,,totally if you ask me,,i have been into riding MC for over 35 years and used all that stuff in the past,,nothing can compare with Shell Rotella and its additive package,,have not seen a small motor fail since Ive been using it now for over 15 years,,the dino rotella is great stuff also@$4 a quart,,cant go wrong either way,,mobile one is good for cars but its to thin for these hot running,high revving GY6 motors,alot of guys like to use it,,but you NEED at-least 10-40 in the small motors from my experience,and with the extreme temps seen in the air cooled motors,,I would not risk the thermal breakdown,,Ive seen Chinese GY6 motors go over 30K miles using synthetic,,not saying it cant be done on dino but your chances are slimmer for sure.
Thanks for all the replies!
Tom
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Post by Deleted on Jun 20, 2013 11:19:20 GMT -5
Synthetic all the way for me.
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Post by pmatulew on Jun 20, 2013 12:24:33 GMT -5
Expensive motorcycle specific oils? Two reasons.
1. Most mtorcycle and ATV engines generally have the transmission gears swimming in with the engine oil so extra shearing-force additives are required to inhibit pre-mature breakdown of the oil.
2. Most motorcycle and ATV engines have wet clutches. The multi-plate clutch is swimming in the engine oil. So you need special additives to keep the clutch from slipping too much.
Neither of these factors apply to GY6 CVT motors. So no need to spend extra on the fancy $9/quart stuff. Regular motor oil should do just fine. Petro or synthetic is your call.
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Post by jerseyboy on Jun 20, 2013 18:36:05 GMT -5
Any small high revving engine will thrive on good oil,,the additive package in diesel oil is far Superior to that of any big brand name motorcycle oil,, that's a fact!
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Post by domindart on Jun 20, 2013 18:41:26 GMT -5
synth every 1000 miles...
1center stand
2drain using the filter nut
3inspect filter element and clean off
4tighten and put good oil in
done
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