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Post by jjgo1984 on Mar 1, 2013 20:24:47 GMT -5
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Post by teddy554 on Mar 1, 2013 20:28:37 GMT -5
It should have no issues with the stock carb starting it, was the piston top dead center when you lined up the timing marks on the fly wheel and cam, might want to take the head off and make sure there was no contact with piston and valves and make sure you have the valves adjusted right, just throwing you some ideas out there to check
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Post by CopperDeer on Mar 1, 2013 22:29:42 GMT -5
If you think there's a fuel delivery issue you can always try squirting a dab of gasoline or starter fluid straight into the carb intake and opening up the throttle a little bit. If that gives you some life, then you know your ignition and valve timing and what not are probably OK and focus on the carb adjustments.
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Post by jjgo1984 on Mar 2, 2013 0:02:11 GMT -5
teddy> hi yes I verified with a chop stick in the spark plug hole, the piston is at tdc with the fly and cam at the right marks, i adjusted my valves to 0.003" (intake) & 0.004" (exhaust), i'll have a look see if there's any contact between the piston and valves... thanks!
copper> i tried squirting some fuel in while attempting to start, but I'm not sure if I opened the throttle at the same time, as since installing BBK, opening the throttle while starting bogs it down, so I;ll try that too, thanks also!
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Post by JR on Mar 2, 2013 0:27:47 GMT -5
It needs three things to run. spark Compression Fuel
Then they all have to happen at the right time. You verified the timing is right. You probably have spark, have you checked it for spark? Last have you check it for compression?
If you have no compression I would guess either the valves need to be adjusted or the rings were not lined up correctly.
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Post by millsc on Mar 2, 2013 0:44:03 GMT -5
Am I the only one that looked at the carb link.it says 529 dollars its either a scam or a joke, the ebay seller not the poster
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Post by JR on Mar 2, 2013 1:01:43 GMT -5
I didn't look at the carb link, but certainly would not pay out the nose for a carb.
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Post by triker on Mar 2, 2013 2:41:28 GMT -5
Did you hold the spark plug on the engine or the frame to test for spark? Did you use a gauge or the finger over the plug hole method to test for compression?
A stock carb is big enough to at least get it running. If you are getting fuel to the carb but not into the cylinder a couple of things could be the problem.
1) The carb passages and/or jets are plugged.
2) The engine it is not creating enough vacuum to suck the fuel up from the bowl. In this case it could be:
A) timing.
B) valves not seating. (improper adjustment, bent stem, ect)
C) rings (if not installed properly)
If you squirt about a teaspoon or so of fuel into a vacuum nipple on the intake manifold it should start if you have spark, compression, and timing is right.
Roy
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Post by teddy554 on Mar 2, 2013 8:46:41 GMT -5
Yeah I also Second Triker to look for air leak around the carb and intake make sure that is all sealed up tight
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Post by CopperDeer on Mar 2, 2013 10:06:39 GMT -5
yyoooooooo I want that carb hahaha, it must make your scooter pull 50 hp for that kinda dough
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Post by teddy554 on Mar 2, 2013 10:20:16 GMT -5
a lot of times when a seller is out of stock the raise the price so high no one would buy it
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Post by CopperDeer on Mar 2, 2013 10:54:00 GMT -5
It's cheaper than closing a listing and starting a new one, eh?
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Post by teddy554 on Mar 2, 2013 12:03:30 GMT -5
not sure but that was the reason i got from some seller on other items with inflated price
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Post by super9 on Mar 4, 2013 7:14:45 GMT -5
what id do...strip the thing out give it a good clean then replace..same goes for the carb at the end of the day its worth ago
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Post by jjgo1984 on Mar 11, 2013 4:59:36 GMT -5
thanks guys, still working through steps, bike still a non runner.... I have spark, appear to have compression, and fuel is definitely in the carb. next to see if valves are interfering, if not then onto piston rings....
.... I have ordered a new head gasket just in case. Anyone know how the rings should be aligned? At the moment the silver comp ring is on top, black below (both with writing facing up) - the oil control rings, the outer (flat rings), I spaced the gaps 180 degrees apart, was told they should be alternated
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