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Post by prodigit on May 16, 2013 16:47:41 GMT -5
Ok, it's going to arrive wednesday morning.
I already purchased oil,
any recommendations on PDI?
It's a different machine than a scoot, surely might get challenging.
Also the website did not PDI the bike, so I probably have to remove the fenders and Tupperware, and start locktiting all bolts (not looking forward to this)...
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Post by prodigit on May 18, 2013 2:52:40 GMT -5
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Post by prodigit on May 18, 2013 6:44:32 GMT -5
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Post by prodigit on May 18, 2013 6:46:28 GMT -5
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Post by CopperDeer on May 18, 2013 11:09:32 GMT -5
Wow, I'm kind of impressed you found such detailed info on it already. This is really interesting. I'll still be following your journey with this bike pretty closely, I actually have a friend who is looking to get his first bike or scooter soon. We've been looking in the 100-150cc class and this might just be perfect because I believe he eventually plans to get a larger motorcycle.
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Post by prodigit on May 18, 2013 14:12:38 GMT -5
They also mentioned this bike (unlike most chinese bikes) is made for regular people, not tiny toddler sized chinese people. The recommended size is between 5' and 6'. I'm 6'3" but keep you updated on how it fits me.
These bikes come from the warehouse without PDI, so I'll have to open every body panel, check every bolt and nut.
Going to be crazy!
I'll try to take many pictures as to where is what, and if I can, I'll also note what to do first (like usually one panel can only be opened after another, etc...).
I bought this bike for a new experience. I want to experience the gears, the 125cc engine which I have high hopes for, and seemingly it looks to be taller than I had imagined; like almost Ninja sized (still small for a tall person, but taller than the chinese choppers or bobbers).
The schematics don't display the right Teeth sprocket, but from the photo's I deducted that the rear sprocket is 41T 4 bolts. I presume the front sprocket is 15T, in which case I probably will want to reduce the rear sprocket to 35T, if that would fit, but I'll see all of that, when the bike gets here.
More than likely the gears are 'tuned' to shift:
1 - 2 gear : 10KPH (~6MPH)
2 - 3 gear : 20KPH (~12.5MPH)
3 - 4 gear : 30KPH (~20MPH)
Then from 20MPH in 4th gear, at ~2k rpm, it could accelerate to a good 60MPH at ~6k RPM.
It most likely has a 1 to 100 ratio on speed to RPM; sounds most logical, it is what most companies do.
But that would also mean that the bike is best 'tuned' to ride in the 30-35MPH zone (as I believe these 125cc engines run best ~3k RPM).
If it could get a front sprocket change to 16T and a rear sprocket change to 35T, it should have gained a respectable 7.5MPH top speed @ 3k RPM (in 4th gear); raising it's most optimized cruising speed from 35 to ~ 42MPH (which would be excellent to ride on those 40MPH roads, as most roads around here are 40MPH).
Also when the gearings would change to 1.25x larger, upshifting would happen around:
1 - 2 gear : 12,5kph (7.75 MPH)
2 - 3 gear : 25,0kph (15.5 MPH)
3 - 4 gear : 37,5kph (23.3 MPH)
It doesn't look that much difference, but the end result should be at least 10MPG extra, and a max of 15MPG extra with just these sprocket changes, so expect MPG's in the 80's.
Acceleration from a stand still is a bit slower, however it pretty much evens out once you're riding, as the larger gearing will allow you to stay longer in a lower gear (while on the stock gearing you'll need to upshift faster).
Top speed should still be about the same or a few MPH's faster, the good thing is that you might reach the same top speed in 4th as in 3rd gear; 3rd gear offering more torque to overtake on the highways, 4th gear offering better fuel mileage (as RPM's drop by about 25%).
This all is speculative, I still need to see if it's possible to do a front sprocket change or not; how small of a rear sprocket the frame can support, and what the engine is able to pull (too big changes may result in the engine not being able to optimally use the gears; like difficult starting from a stand still; and top speed in 4th gear to drop too low).
I know for one thing, the stock gearing will be too short, allowing fast acceleration, in which case most of the time, you'd leave most cars well behind yourself on a red light, even with a passenger.
So getting larger gearings allows you to trade some of that fast acceleration, for better MPG's, and funner riding (as I believe it's a lot more fun to ride a bike where you have to shift gears less in traffic, not shift every time you slow down 10MPH).
This gear change may not be for people who have to do a lot of hill climbing, are riding with more than 200-250 LBS (I'm only 165 with gear, 170 tops). I mainly ride level ground, no hills, not a lot of wind.
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Post by prodigit on May 23, 2013 1:33:54 GMT -5
Ok guys,
the bike arrived!
And it's not for the faint of heart!
A full review is on the way, with pics and everything, but if you cursed at your 50/150 or even 250cc scooter, you will not laugh at this one!
First of all, the reason the motorcycle is 799, is because nothing is done to it.
The motor, and frame, and a few side plating are done, but I had to connect fuel line, change hose clips, close carburetor (install the needle, which is piss difficult, if you don't want to remove the tupperware), blinkers, front headlight, both front and rear tire, gear pedal, brake pedal, center stand, side plastics, electrical connectors, handlebars, battery, etc...
On average, my TaoTao ATM50 took 2 hours to do.
The EVO150 took 3 hours to do.
And because of the lousy usermanual, and missing parts, this motorcycle took ~12 hours to do (that is with 2x small 30 minute brakes)
If anything, the crate is really fast to open. Nuts are welded on the frame, so just loosening the bolts with one device. Best crate opening experience ever! (done in 10 minutes)
A few things though:
- The suspension is absolutely subliminal, very soft, good for a 170LBS rider
- The materials used are of GOOD quality, comparable to Korean or Japanese bikes (save for the plastics)
- The mechanical parts are all very easy to do, take time, but work quite well.
- The usual plastic fenders and side plates do not fit the mounting holes. Always 1/4 to 1/2 in off.
- You can do it alone but it is curse work. At least the beginning, with the plastics. Once you do the mechanics, it's actually quite enjoyable
- The usermanual is very unclear and has errors, causing you to have to undo some work, and start over. Pictures are very unclear.
- A lot of things that need to be done, are not covered in the usermanual (like mounting the lollypop blinkers, and are very hard to do.
- You need to possess basic mechanic skills, know the difference between M5x12, M5x16, and M6x25; what bushings, bolts, nuts, and washers are, and how (hard) to tighten them; use Locktite on bolts (I use silicone glue) etc...
Impressions on the bike:
Well made, does not seem to need gear oil? (found only engine oil),
40T rear sprocket, minimum sprocket size would be just over 35T, so 36T30T would be the smallest possible sprocket you could install.
I could not yet find the airfilter
Does only come with a glove box which could host a few coke cans, GPS golves and wallet.
The dashboard actually could host a GPS easily! Love it!
The fuel gauge is digital (LEDs), beautiful!
LED's are hard to see in sunlight though; but well visible at night.
The exhaust gasket is a copper one. Exhaust bolts will fall off, so I had to go in my cave, to get some extra nuts to double nut them!
The valve adjustment will be a piece of cake! Very accessible!
Misses:
- Idle adjustment screw is not accessible, has to be done at the throttle, accessible via a hole in the side panel. The AF screw is hard to reach, plate needs to be drilled out, and screw adjusted with a sub- 4in in length flat screwdriver.
- Plastic plating require a lot of bolts to be removed, one plate is preventing another plate to be removed by itself; very annoying!
- Gas tank can't be removed, without removing the Battery rear storage compartment, which can't be removed without removing all rear tupperware, which can't be removed without removing ALL tupperware.
Sucks!
- The front grill is actually a plastic piece, making it look like the bike is watercooled (radiator), but it is not. It's just for show, as the bike is an air cooled, and the radiator is just a radiator shaped plastic.
- The bike missed a few bolts, washers, clips, and the battery (battery compartment is under front seat, under the gas tank).
Due to the battery missing, I could not test it other than plug a power adapter in, to see if it works, and it seems to. It just doesn't turn over.
Tried kick starting, but could not get it to work yet. (this due to a configured carb, set too lean).
- The usermanual points out on a hydraulic rear brake, however, the rear brake is actually a drum brake, mechanical, controlled by a metal bar connecting to the brake pedal, which is effective and better than a cable, and IMHO, better than hydraulics.
- The mirrors are threaded in the wrong way. Left threaded mirror supposed to be right, and right threaded mirror, left.
They did it reverse on this bike, causing if you're riding really fast, that your mirrors might come loose due to the wind. Also, they are virtually useless, as they offer a very small rear view window.
- Battery connectors where not long enough to reach battery compartment, yes they where, battery compartment is in center of bike, not rear.
- Idle adjustment screw hole is useless (no idle adjustment screw on this carburetor)
- Brake fluid looking glass is covered by plastics
- Gear pedal can gear up, but not gear down, or reverse. When gear pedal is set to work properly, the heel does not reach the gear down pedal. This due to the extreme motion (3 in either way) to shift gears.
- No under seat storage compartment (only battery, and fueltank) There's a tiny underseat compartment, like a glove box, or battery compartment, or airfilter sized box. Usermanual says under seat is helmet compartment, however there's just enough space to put your gloves, GPS and wallet in.
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Post by scootnwinn on May 27, 2013 20:35:10 GMT -5
Ok does any one know what happened to digit? Did he ever get this thing on the road?? It's been 4 days did he give up? Hmmm perhaps he went for a visit in his home country...
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Post by gitsum on May 27, 2013 22:31:21 GMT -5
For $799 it looks like you got exactly what you paid for.
If you get it running properly, I hope you take extra care in making sure a critical piece of hardware isn't about to fail...
Good luck and please ride safe!
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Post by prodigit on May 28, 2013 2:15:46 GMT -5
I finally got the engine running, had to idle adjust, and the side stand peg switch was not mounted. After changing the switch, I had spark.
I did one test ride today, however after 2 miles it bogged down and died.
I started it for several minutes without success.
At first I thought the gasoline was finished, but no.
Second was the sidestand switch, but no
third, the spark, but no (I had spark)
fourth, idle adjustment, and try different choke settings, but no.
The bike was bogging while riding.
The clutch works like crap. Shifting forward is possible, but not shift backwards; which causes the bike to stall in 4th gear when getting to a stop.
4th gear enters after 25MPH. Way too slow. Def. getting a sprocket change, that is, IF i can find the problem with the engine bogging down, and no longer starting. Maybe a wiring issue...
More problems than fun guys. But the shocks are amazing! Never felt such good suspension in my life, is like floating over the road.
Acceleration in 1st gear is good; loses torque after ~4-5k RPM, so you'll be early shifting.
Peppy bike! Quick accell, even in the breakin!
Now the damn thing stopped working and I'm still trying to fix it; don't even know where to begin!
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Post by tiopedro on May 28, 2013 4:16:09 GMT -5
That is how you start loving your bike, the more breaks the more you do the more you love it.. off course, once it is back in running condition..  EDIT: Lets see some pictures.. |
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Post by jwalz1 on May 29, 2013 14:53:09 GMT -5
I am really looking forward to an update. Prodigit, sorry to hear about the issues, hopefully you can get them sorted out. It certainly is a nice looking bike.
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Post by prodigit on May 29, 2013 20:23:20 GMT -5
Well, basically, until I figured out everything, I can't make a review. At this point in time the bike is about to return to the store. I got it running for about 0.5 mile, and it shut down on me in the middle of the road. I'd admit, if it would run, it would be an excellent bike. As for images, imageshack does not allow me to share the folder, and it has organized the bike pics not via file name or date. So it takes sorting out, however I can share all pics I've ever put on the web. Here's my imageshack account link: imageshack.us/user/prodigitUnder that link you'll see the Roketa pics first, and others after that too. The pics are usually of parts of a motorcycle I either want to address, or if there's a watch next to it, to indicate what I did around what time. |
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Post by averageguy on Jun 6, 2013 15:56:49 GMT -5
I sure wish I would have seen this before I bought one of there... I am in the early stages of setting one of these up and it is a nightmare. Bike looks decent though and hopefully I can get it running. I think I will learn a lot from this experience. Hopefully not that I should have bought a Honda...  ... so far it looks like that's the road I'm headed down.... If I only knew what I was getting into waaaaaaaaaahhhh. |
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Post by prodigit on Jun 6, 2013 16:12:29 GMT -5
Keep in touch!
One thing I can tell you: Don't mount the side plating until the bike is running smoothly!
I actually finished mine after nearly 3 weeks (can only work one day a week).
It's purrin like a kittin!
Here's my advise:
Before mounting the carburetor jet needle, demount it, and drill out the AF screw cap!
It was set way too lean.
Mount the jet needle before you install the carburetor. You can actually move the front grille (plastic looking like a radiator) a bit forward.
then continue like the manual said.
I was about to upload a whole review on how to correctly install it, as I've gone through all the phases, and would surely appreciate your help. Unfortunately I haven't been able to do so far yet.
It's hard indeed, but so far it's a subliminal bike!
Have you felt the suspension?
Best suspension ever!
Basically you need to follow the user manual, and do it slow. Think before you do something.
When the user manual says to connect the wiring for the headlight, connect ALL wiring, because later in the process you can't.
Mount the lollypop blinkers BEFORE you mount the headlight, or it'll be a nightmare!
Or don't mount them at all (the front ones, you still have blinkers, just no lollypop ones).
On the engine and transmission you don't need to do anything.
You probably will need to buy a file, and file off some plastic on the right body panel, because it's in the way for the oil fillup hole on the top.
So far I've only found the engine oil fillup. I think the gears use engine oil, instead of gear oil.
Keep me updated!
If you have any questions, I'm here to help out!
BTW, besides your stock tools, you will need a tiny 8mm wrench, a tiny flat screw driver (that can adjust the AF screw, and fits between carburetor, and body panel on the right), and a drill, to drill out that carb af screw plate, which is located on the left of the idle screw.
In my case I had to turn the screw 1 turn tight, for the bike not to have to run on choke all the time.
I'm still fine tuning it though.
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