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Post by glavey on May 6, 2013 13:55:06 GMT -5
I have a 2011 TaoTao ATM50-A1 with a 72cc BBK, "performance" CDI, and an main jet and #30 idle jet. Air filter/intake is all stock except for removed P.A.I.R. system and exhaust is stock. The engine pulls very strong in the mid and upper throttle range, but in the low to mid range it is noticeably sluggish. I replaced the idle jet with a #35, but that COMPLETELY floods the engine. I remember seeing a few people/places selling #32 idle jets, but I cannot for the life of me find anyone or anyplace that has any jet between #30 and #35. Does anyone know where I can get one? On the (good) chance that I can't find one, I'm thinking I'll just have to replace the entire carb and hope that the #35 in that carb doesn't flood my engine.
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Post by cytoruck on May 6, 2013 14:33:28 GMT -5
try jetsrus.com
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Post by carasdad on May 6, 2013 14:50:28 GMT -5
About 1/2 way down the page... www.power-barn.com/servlet/the-Intake-and-Fuel-cln-Jetting/CategoriesAlso you have an A/F screw...that is what it is for...slight changes in low end by regulating air or fuel to the engine. In our 2T carbs it regulates fuel...in the typical 4T carb it regulates air.(somebody PLEASE correct me if I got that backwards..as I do suffer memory issues.) Have you tried adjusting that? Or most likely you have one of the sealed Tao Tao carbs with a cap over the screw..or some with no screw at all...
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Post by alleyoop on May 6, 2013 15:11:28 GMT -5
It could be you need 1 or 1 1/2 lighter rollers to get your rpms up and keep the belt down on the lower ratio of the Variator. If you think it is fuel turn the fuel ratio screw to allow a little more fuel. If you have a CVK carb raise the needle one notch to allow more fuel in the mid-range. By moving the Needle up 1 notch that is approx 1 size Jet up. Alleyoop
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Post by carasdad on May 6, 2013 15:30:26 GMT -5
DX Both of those will cause a sluggish midrange. The rollers...because that is where you feel that 'shift' where your rpms drop..then slowly climb back up.
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Post by glavey on May 6, 2013 16:18:01 GMT -5
jetsrus.com - no luck, only had #35 and higher. www.power-barn.com/servlet/the-Intake-and-Fuel-cln-Jetting/Categories - same as above. My carb is one that had a cover over the adjustment screw and sealed bowl screws but I removed the plug and managed to drill out and remove the bowl screws with a bolt extractor. I believe the problem is with fuel, not with CVT tuning; I have replaced the roller weights with ones 1g and 2g lighter; same lack of power with reduced top end from the lighter weights. I have already moved the needle up, it helped with mid range power but not with low end where the sluggishness is. I will try readjusting the air/fuel mixture screw. Also, I'm not trying to say that you all aren't understanding me, but when I say low to mid throttle range, I'm not talking about RPMs, I'm talking about throttle position or how much you twist the throttle. The CVT has already "upshifted" when the engine is feeling sluggish. Sorry if that sounded condescending, I'm just trying to say exactly what I mean.
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Post by cytoruck on May 6, 2013 16:28:42 GMT -5
id say get some precision drill bits and drill your jet bigger
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Post by glavey on May 6, 2013 17:00:25 GMT -5
I was under the impression you could only do that with main jets.
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Post by alleyoop on May 6, 2013 17:05:51 GMT -5
You do not understand how things work, to shoot out like a rocket from a stand still You need the motor to have enough power to move the weight. For a little scooter motor to be able to do that the crank has to be turning quite fast(RPMS). So your rpms have to be up so it has enough power to get to speed quickly. Doesn't matter on the throttle position you can crank it wide open and it will be sluggish UNTIL the RPMS rise enough to overcome the load you just put on it.
If you do not want to change the weights to have rise your starting rpms then you have two options: 1. Put in stronger Clutch springs. That will require higher RPMS before it grabs the bell to move the weight. 2. Put in a stronger Contra Spring that will also require higher rpms to open the Clutch Pulley.
But I see your problem as shifting to quickly which is caused by the weights being to HEAVY. Alleyoop
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Post by glavey on May 6, 2013 18:30:32 GMT -5
I'm not talking about the bog that happens when you first open up the throttle from a dead stop. I'm talking about cruising at 25mph with the engine near it's power band. At a certain throttle position the engine is very nearly cutting out from being too lean; give it just 1mm more twist of the throttle and the engine runs as it should.
I am not trying to argue and I know you are very knowledgeable with scooters, but I am certain this is a fuel issue, not a CVT issue.
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Post by tvnacman on May 6, 2013 19:33:47 GMT -5
glavey your a man , so what do you weigh . Are you a big boy ? If you were I would never ask .
John
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Post by scootnwinn on May 6, 2013 19:42:43 GMT -5
Not sure the idle jet is metering much fuel unless you are just off of the idle position I think raising your needle might help more than chasing jets...
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Post by alleyoop on May 6, 2013 19:57:02 GMT -5
I'm not talking about the bog that happens when you first open up the throttle from a dead stop. I'm talking about cruising at 25mph with the engine near it's power band. At a certain throttle position the engine is very nearly cutting out from being too lean; give it just 1mm more twist of the throttle and the engine runs as it should. I am not trying to argue and I know you are very knowledgeable with scooters, but I am certain this is a fuel issue, not a CVT issue. This is not an arguement at all bud, just trying to help that is all. But your current post is telling us a different story than what you were trying to tell your problem is. Now your saying cruising around at around 25 and a certain throttle position is almost cuts out. Now it could be to RICH or to LEAN at that throttle position you do not know either does anyone else. But here is a TRICK OF THE TRADE that will tell you which it is LEAN OR RICH so you will know which way to go: Set it up so that whatever you do it acts up THEN BACK OFF THE THROTTLE JUST a little 1/8-14 OF AN INCH on the GRIP and HOLD IT THERE: A. If it speeds up it is LEAN at that throttle position. B. If it Stutters or Hesistates and or JUST SETTLES down it is RICH at that throttle position. Very Accurate Trick of the Trade works at any throttle position. But this will tell you what is needed at that throttle position. Now I have to tell you at 25mph on a 50cc scoot it is TRANSITIONING onto the MAIN JET. So it could be your MAIN jet that is causing the problem. But the trick will tell you to either try the next bigger Main Jet or go down 1 size on the Main Jet. On a 150 the transition is around 40mph. Alleyoop
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Post by glavey on May 7, 2013 10:25:51 GMT -5
I weigh ~195 lbs.
I have already raised the needle 1 notch... well, 1 small washers height; I still have the factory carb. I will try and raise it up another notch and check for improvement.
Thank you for understanding the not-an-argument point; I try to be careful when stating an opposing opinion through text, it is all too easy to misread something as a flame or attack when it is meant as nothing more than collaboration.
I will try what you have posted @ 15, 25, and 35 mph.
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Post by chihuahuas on May 7, 2013 12:55:17 GMT -5
Can you Say "Spare Carburator" if not put a leaf blower on as a turbo and hang on......
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