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Post by glavey on Jul 12, 2018 16:18:16 GMT -5
Thanks for the reply.
After doing my best to eyeball the front and rear sprocket alignment today, I started up the engine and put it in gear. Aside from the carb needing adjustment (which of course has those break-off bolts holding on the float bowl), everything worked. In neutral, the bike didn't move, and in first, with the clutch held in the bike didn't move forward under it's own power and moved forward when the clutch lever was released.
I also re-routed the clutch cable; made a nice long sweeping curve instead of 3-4 sharp ones. Pull effort went down to two fingers. I think if I lube the cable it'll be even easier.
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Post by glavey on Jul 11, 2018 16:03:40 GMT -5
I have a brand-new VIP/Baodiao BD125-8 (essentially a clone of a Honda Grom). So far the PDI had been going good, except for two things so far, one of which is the clutch.
With the trans in neutral, the bike easily rolls forward and backward, with or without the clutch lever pulled in. However, when I put it in first, with the clutch fully pulled in, the bike is difficult to move forward and backward and sometimes locks the rear wheel (won't fully engage). With the clutch lever released, there is NO free play in the lever (clutch won't fully disengage), and the rear wheel always locks.
I have tried to adjust the clutch cable at the lever and down near the clutch arm coming out of the trans. case. If I tighten down all of the adjustments, making the sheathe as short as possible, there is no free play at the end of the clutch travel and the bike is difficult to push forward/backward; If I lengthen the adjusters to make the sheathe as long as possible, the is, again, no free play at the end of the clutch travel, and the bike is slightly easier to push forward/backward while in gear.
My thoughts are that either the sheathe on the clutch cable is too long, not allowing full disengagement, the clutch plates are a bit stuck together from being new/bathed in chinese oil, and/or somehow the clutch lever isn't pulling the cable enough.
If I shorten the cable's sheathe, I'm sure I could get some free play and the end of the clutch travel, but then the clutch would engage even less when I pull the lever.
FWIW, I haven't started this bike up yet to see if it will move forward by engine power with the trans in gear and the clutch pulled in.
Also, I don't know if this ties in to the above problem, but the clutch lever has a very heavy pull; I don't know if the assemblers didn't lube it or if it's kinked somewhere.
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Post by glavey on May 7, 2013 13:56:05 GMT -5
...put a leaf blower on as a turbo and hang on...... Oh man, if only I had the money and didn't have A.D.D.. Well, I went out and cleaned the carb as best I could, put it back on and went for a spin to get the engine up to operating temp. Came back and tried, in vain, to tune the carb with these instructions. The adjustment screw was at 3 1/2 turns out when I started, now it is at 3 turns out. I went back out for another ride to test what alleyoop said. At 15 mph, with the engine nearly cutting out, I was just barely giving it gas so I could only turn the throttle back to idle. The engine just slowed down and continued to almost cut out. At 25, right at the point where the engine is on the line between struggling and running well, when I cut back on the throttle, it slightly speeds up then goes back to struggling. At 35, with the engine running well, when I cut back on the throttle, the engine just slows down how, I think, it should. Although, to be fair, I really don't know what is normal for these engines; I had a factory 63cc before I put on the BBK and that was too lean all around so I don't know exactly to look/listen/feel for in a correctly tuned engine. I also have another couple of symptoms to add; 1. when attempting to tune the carb, no matter how many turns out the adj. screw was, a quick blip of the throttle always resulted in a vraVROOOM instead the usual VROOOM. And 2. No matter how many turns out the adj. screw is if I give the engine a quick and SMALL throttle blip, say 25% or less, the engine revs up with a vraVROOoM and then dies. If I give it a quick and LARGE blip, more than 33% or more, the engine revs up with a vraVROOOM and then settles back down to idle. I'm willing to give tuning another shot, but I don't want to back the adj. screw all the way out. What is a good stopping point for turning out the screw? |
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Post by glavey on May 7, 2013 10:25:51 GMT -5
I weigh ~195 lbs.
I have already raised the needle 1 notch... well, 1 small washers height; I still have the factory carb. I will try and raise it up another notch and check for improvement.
Thank you for understanding the not-an-argument point; I try to be careful when stating an opposing opinion through text, it is all too easy to misread something as a flame or attack when it is meant as nothing more than collaboration.
I will try what you have posted @ 15, 25, and 35 mph.
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Post by glavey on May 6, 2013 18:30:32 GMT -5
I'm not talking about the bog that happens when you first open up the throttle from a dead stop. I'm talking about cruising at 25mph with the engine near it's power band. At a certain throttle position the engine is very nearly cutting out from being too lean; give it just 1mm more twist of the throttle and the engine runs as it should.
I am not trying to argue and I know you are very knowledgeable with scooters, but I am certain this is a fuel issue, not a CVT issue.
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Post by glavey on May 6, 2013 17:00:25 GMT -5
I was under the impression you could only do that with main jets.
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Post by glavey on May 6, 2013 16:18:01 GMT -5
jetsrus.com - no luck, only had #35 and higher. www.power-barn.com/servlet/the-Intake-and-Fuel-cln-Jetting/Categories - same as above. My carb is one that had a cover over the adjustment screw and sealed bowl screws but I removed the plug and managed to drill out and remove the bowl screws with a bolt extractor. I believe the problem is with fuel, not with CVT tuning; I have replaced the roller weights with ones 1g and 2g lighter; same lack of power with reduced top end from the lighter weights. I have already moved the needle up, it helped with mid range power but not with low end where the sluggishness is. I will try readjusting the air/fuel mixture screw. Also, I'm not trying to say that you all aren't understanding me, but when I say low to mid throttle range, I'm not talking about RPMs, I'm talking about throttle position or how much you twist the throttle. The CVT has already "upshifted" when the engine is feeling sluggish. Sorry if that sounded condescending, I'm just trying to say exactly what I mean. |
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Post by glavey on May 6, 2013 13:55:06 GMT -5
I have a 2011 TaoTao ATM50-A1 with a 72cc BBK, "performance" CDI, and an  main jet and #30 idle jet. Air filter/intake is all stock except for removed P.A.I.R. system and exhaust is stock. The engine pulls very strong in the mid and upper throttle range, but in the low to mid range it is noticeably sluggish. I replaced the idle jet with a #35, but that COMPLETELY floods the engine. I remember seeing a few people/places selling #32 idle jets, but I cannot for the life of me find anyone or anyplace that has any jet between #30 and #35. Does anyone know where I can get one? On the (good) chance that I can't find one, I'm thinking I'll just have to replace the entire carb and hope that the #35 in that carb doesn't flood my engine. |
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main jet and #30 idle jet. Air filter/intake is all stock except for removed P.A.I.R. system and exhaust is stock.