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Post by jeepsteve92xj on May 1, 2013 21:40:51 GMT -5
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Freshman Rider
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Post by chihuahuas on May 1, 2013 21:58:53 GMT -5
Audit the amp needs.
See what you need.
What about headlights. Scooter lights suck.
Figure you will be adding a HID headlamp =4 amps.
EFI fuel pump 24 watts/12=2 amps
That's 6 amps so far.
Run leds in the back.
6ampsx12=72 watts. add 2 amps to charge the battery.96 watts.
11 pole should give 140 watts (a guess)cold less hot.
That will cover it.
Going dc won't change much because you will still need power to run the ignition and that will come off the battery/ coil so I don't see an advantage in going 12 pole.
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Post by jeepsteve92xj on May 1, 2013 22:24:15 GMT -5
Except the instruments, I have LEDs.
And currently a 45W/45W H4, but today the HID DC kit arrived.
Charging the phone and GPS on occasion, and the addition of LED driving lights in the near future = nothing major to suck the juice.
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Post by cytoruck on May 1, 2013 23:25:19 GMT -5
For the ruckus crowd (myself) when we swap we have to use 11 poles in order for our batterys to remain at a full charge due to our headlights and such, my gy6 is wired with all my accessorys running dc and all lighting running dc the 11 pole stator's 3 yellow wires all charge the battery, thats what youd probably want to do
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Post by tvnacman on May 2, 2013 4:39:45 GMT -5
Jeepster call me today after 9 eastern time . I have done several 11pole conversions .
John
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Post by tvnacman on May 2, 2013 4:58:52 GMT -5
tvnacman<----- just thinking out loud , did the scooter come with a 35w headlight , if so put it back in for the mean time . It could get you on the positive side of charging .
John
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Post by jeepsteve92xj on May 2, 2013 5:51:27 GMT -5
It came with an BA20D 18/18.
But I am not riding while I finish the EFI. Didn't get any done last night because the Win 7 Virtual XP had crap-loads of updates.
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Post by jeepsteve92xj on May 2, 2013 11:24:10 GMT -5
Hmmmm - Tried to call, many rings later, the answering voice said the voice mailbox wasn't set up.
I will try again.
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Post by tvnacman on May 2, 2013 11:45:10 GMT -5
I had my hands full about 20min ago . I'm good now .
John
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Post by JR on May 2, 2013 11:50:42 GMT -5
You'll find in most cases the 12 pole stator is for the GY-6B engine and will not bolt up on the standard GY-6 engine, stay at 11 pole, not enough to worry about on the extra pole any way.
JR
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Post by jeepsteve92xj on May 2, 2013 11:55:04 GMT -5
Mine is the B motor, but the 11 is much cheaper, and more readily available.
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Post by JR on May 2, 2013 20:55:09 GMT -5
You better give Tv all the hole spacing and specs, don't think the 11 pole will fit?
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Post by jeepsteve92xj on Jun 28, 2013 7:58:12 GMT -5
on my Xingyue ITA 150 GY6B, tvnacman's 11-pole stator, 7-wire rectifier and magneto bolted right up, with a bit of rewire. Original rectifier was up front. I put the new rectifier right over the CVT case since I had added an aluminum plate for tire hugger support when I removed the airbox. I have to waterproof the harness connections. Still working with the EFI, so haven't checked the new charging. The V-meter on the dash -aftermarket - shows 13.2V. I happened to be reading over on the buggydepot site and found a 6 or 8-pole to 11-pole upgrade harness. While not cheap, it may have saved a ton of time and most of the stator upgrade harness hack. I did not use it (since I only today even saw it) but maybe someone else may wish to give it a try and write it up. www.buggydepot.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=600If I decide to upgrade the Znen, I will go for this. |
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Post by tvnacman on Jun 28, 2013 10:36:33 GMT -5
Hi Steve long time no see . I have seen that harness, I helped a guy who bought it and was having some trouble with it. We got it squared away. I would guess that 13.3 was at idle.
John
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Post by jeepsteve92xj on Jun 28, 2013 10:45:27 GMT -5
more like 2200. I had to collect 10+ minutes of data to send, and I held it at a bit over 2k for a while then up to 4k for a bit, stationary. I'll try to remember to put a digital meter across the battery when I run a new log tonight. It isnt idling on its own yet, so I am not getting a chance to check stuff while running.
I also realized last night that that changing form the AC CDI to the CD CDI included with the EFI kit, I need to rewire for the kill switch. The key switch works, and I have a manual petcock, and it stalls at idle right now. But the kill switch does nothing.
Also, the headlight is now HID, BUT when I ran the engine before putting all the plastics back on, with NO headlight, it was the same, just over 13V
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