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Post by mikestib1 on Mar 9, 2017 15:42:23 GMT -5
Just shelled out for a service manual to do my own valve adjustments. Anyhow it recommends you drain the coolant, remove the radiator and water pump as a start. Believe me I will remove the valve cover, get the engine on the compression stroke, watch the valve stems come up, check there's play in the rocker arms and valve stems, and if they are .005 intake and .010 inches, I won't check them again unless the bike gets hard to start. Will also use full syn Amsoil to minimize rocker arm wear and Chevron Techron fuel injection conditioner to keep the valve seats clean of carbon build up.
Any owners who have figured a way to do it, let me know.
iMO dealers are not doing a valve check at 600 mile service.
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Post by wheelbender6 on Mar 9, 2017 22:17:38 GMT -5
Sounds tougher that adjusting the desmodromic valves on a Ducati.
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Post by oldchopperguy on Mar 9, 2017 23:27:23 GMT -5
Sounds tougher than getting a straight answer from a politician... LOL!
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Post by spandi on Mar 10, 2017 14:49:37 GMT -5
This is why "old school" tech can work in your favor if you do your own wrenching. ( Like a '56 Buick, no computers and plenty of room for your feet in the engine bay.)
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Post by rockynv on Mar 10, 2017 19:05:37 GMT -5
It could be worse and they could have use shims instead of adjusters.
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Post by w650 on Mar 11, 2017 8:12:18 GMT -5
Ask Pete how much he loathed having to drop his Vespa's ET-4 engine out of the frame simply to change the spark plug. My Kymco Like and CF Moto are the best ever for maintenance. You just pull the seat and everything is right there.
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Post by rockynv on Mar 11, 2017 8:54:34 GMT -5
Ask Pete how much he loathed having to drop his Vespa's ET-4 engine out of the frame simply to change the spark plug. My Kymco Like and CF Moto are the best ever for maintenance. You just pull the seat and everything is right there. You put it on the center stand, pull out the seat bucket with no tools required and remove one bolt on the shock absorber and the engine pivots to service the plug. You might have to put a wooden block under the center stand if your hands are big to get a bit more clearance. That's only if you don't want to use the supplied tool that came with the bike and the spark plug hatch which makes it about a three minute job on the ET4. Some folks make it much harder than it really is. No need to remove the engine on an ET4 just to change a spark plug. |
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Post by w650 on Mar 11, 2017 10:03:24 GMT -5
I think if there was an easier way Pete would have found it. He isn't the only one I've seen complain about it. Modern Vespa is filled with gripes about service issues. As are most brand name scooter forums. It makes people take them to the dealer all the time.
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Post by wheelbender6 on Mar 11, 2017 10:11:38 GMT -5
The complicated valve adjustment on the SMAX would be acceptable if I am just a weekend rider. If You commute daily, I would get something with a simpler, air cooled engine for easier maintenance.
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Post by mikestib1 on Mar 11, 2017 16:07:25 GMT -5
Keeping the S max but getting a 2t Rough house Monday with my refund check. No valves, de restricted 45 mph, fast enough in the city. For $200 I'll get a stage one kit with expansion chamber, new rollers, main jets, and contra spring.
As for the S max I'll use full synthetic oil and forget valve adjustments.. Wish it had shims like my R3, no required adjustment for 16000 miles.
My point is Yamaha knows better.
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Post by rockynv on Mar 12, 2017 23:41:11 GMT -5
I think if there was an easier way Pete would have found it. He isn't the only one I've seen complain about it. Modern Vespa is filled with gripes about service issues. As are most brand name scooter forums. It makes people take them to the dealer all the time. People who don't know do it the hard way all the time and gripe about it. On the ET4 its a 3 to 10 minute job and the tools to do it the 3 minute way are included with the bike. To make it even easier the tool storage area is built into the underside of the seat itself so you do not have to go digging for them. You don't even need tools to remove the seat bucket since it simply pulls right out once you open the seat. Had one guy griping about having to drop the engine to get at the carb on his ET4 and you should have seen the look of shock on his face when I reached down and pulled the seat bucket right out without removing any of its contents first and exposed the entire top of the engine along with the plate you open to get at the spark plug. Got to be one of the easiest bikes out there to work on. |
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Post by w650 on Mar 13, 2017 16:44:31 GMT -5
As Will Rogers said. I only know what I read in the papers. I am probably wrong since I don't own one but it seems pretty shady. You would think on a forum with many dealers on board myths of maintenance difficulties would be dispelled. Especially the idea that after 30,000 miles you're living on borrowed time.
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Post by cyborg55 on Mar 13, 2017 21:49:44 GMT -5
My et4 was truly a hard time to work on,, for me anyways ,,I was not impressed and sold it as soon as I got it running decently , the Stella is a breeze comparatively speaking and will be in the stable for far longer than the vespa
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Post by rockynv on Mar 13, 2017 23:52:08 GMT -5
My et4 was truly a hard time to work on,, for me anyways ,,I was not impressed and sold it as soon as I got it running decently , the Stella is a breeze comparatively speaking and will be in the stable for far longer than the vespa The Stella is basically a Vespa PX that was made in India by LML. The ET4 once you understand how to access things is no big deal to maintain. Both bikes are vintage Vespa designs. |
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