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Belt wear
by: geh3333 - Jun 7, 2015 22:21:08 GMT -5
via mobile
Post by geh3333 on Jun 7, 2015 22:21:08 GMT -5
This is probably why the 1000 main would not work right with even 17 gram weights !
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Belt wear
by: geh3333 - Jun 7, 2015 22:12:59 GMT -5
via mobile
Post by geh3333 on Jun 7, 2015 22:12:59 GMT -5
I took my belt off and scrubbed it with on of those cheap sponges with the green scrubbing side. I used the green side and I got the glaze off , so I imagine I should be able to go back to the lighter weights. Thanks lain !!
If this works , I'll have a bunch of good belts waiting to be reglazed !!
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buzzer
by: geh3333 - Jun 7, 2015 21:38:53 GMT -5
via mobile
Post by geh3333 on Jun 7, 2015 21:38:53 GMT -5
Found a buzzer in the harness of a decade old 2stroke. What could be it's purpose? At first I thought it might be a relay, for blinkers or something, but then I hooked it up to a 9v and it let out a loud high pitch buzz like in old cars when the engine has issues. At about 4000 rpms the buzzer will go off if you left the keys in the trunk. |
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Belt wear
by: geh3333 - Jun 7, 2015 21:33:22 GMT -5
via mobile
Post by geh3333 on Jun 7, 2015 21:33:22 GMT -5
Just wipe the sides with a rag and a little warm water fast to wear the glaze off. Just did it today myself. The friction rubs the glaze off easy with some force. It's safe enough to not damage the threading or sides. I did wash it off with dish soap , but I really didn't scrub it. I wonder if I would lightly sand the sides with a medium grit sand paper , if that would help ? |
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Post by geh3333 on Jun 7, 2015 21:30:06 GMT -5
Does it see to be running stronger with the bigger carb ? Acceleration is a lot better, and it doesn't struggle going up hills as much as it did with the stock carb, I really like how the performance improved now that it is behaving. Very nice ! I'm really glad that many are finally able to experience what a bigger carb can do for their scoots. About 4 years ago I did my mods and added the bigger carb . since then I've been trying to get other to give it a shot . many have and I'm really glad to see them have the same success. |
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Belt wear
by: geh3333 - Jun 7, 2015 21:14:43 GMT -5
via mobile
Post by geh3333 on Jun 7, 2015 21:14:43 GMT -5
How's it going? I was wondering if anyone else has belt wear issues like I do ? I always run a gates Kevlar 842 belt, and when it wears to a certain point my rpms begin to raise. I counter this by using heavier roller weights . Since I've been using the K&S variator I haven't noticed this issue , however the last couple times I tried a stronger main spring with heavier weights , then go back to the stock main spring with lighter weights , the belt seemed to wear considerably. I tried a 1000 main spring with 17 gram roller weights , and the rpms were just a tad too high, so I went back to 15.5 gram weights and the stock main spring , and the rpms were now also too high and I had to put the 17 gram weights in with the stock spring so the belt would climb fully on the variator. It seems as if the 1000 main and the 17gram weights wore the belt to a certain point. The problem isn't with the belt becoming thinner , it seems as if the sides of the belt are kind of glazed. Even with the koso I always had to fight this with upping the roller weight . would a belt dressing bring these belts back . its like the rubber has become hardened and the variators cannot grab them like they should. Any suggestions ? I have a ton of extra belts that I replace after about 2000 miles because of this . my recent belt has really close to 2k miles on it right now, but just like all of my other belts , its still over 18mm wide actually still pretty close to 19mm .
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Post by geh3333 on Jun 7, 2015 20:51:06 GMT -5
Does it see to be running stronger with the bigger carb ?
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Post by geh3333 on Jun 7, 2015 17:28:31 GMT -5
Today I hit 8k RPMs on the highway without too much effort, 120kmph Chinese speedo reading, I haven't done anything to the carb since I installed it and did the basic tuning, this thing gets better with time, I guess the needle was stuck for being stored on a shop shelf for who knows how long and now it got loose, the fuel consumption got better too. I can't way for the BBK and the head to arrive, I'm creating a monster!! buahahahaha...!!  Do you have the stock carb in ? |
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Post by geh3333 on Jun 7, 2015 17:26:38 GMT -5
Yes Jerry you are correct I have been seeing them on the valve cover more and more. My first two scooters were on the fan cover bolt at 12 o'clock. I like the starter hold down bolt. John Yep, John. Mine is on the starter hold down bolt - thought they ALL would be there, since that's the place of highest current. Odd a manufacturer would choose any other place (though a crankcase location, such as muffler mount (I have a secondary ground there) is probably just as good. The starter bolt would be the best place. The valve cover would be my second choice, then again all the bolts connect the entire case together through metal on metal contact , so I'm sure it doesn't make a difference. |
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Post by geh3333 on Jun 7, 2015 3:19:21 GMT -5
A buddy of mine just bought a 2005 80cc Honda elite at a yard sale for $200. It has 750 miles on it. It sat for about a year or so in a garage , so I had to clear the carb bowl and jets . they were completely clogged . I drained the fuel , filled the tank with new fuel with star tron . the battery was shot , so we jusmp it to see if it would start , and it fired right up, and sounds great. He paid 200 bucks for a scoot that worth close to $1500 .
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Post by geh3333 on Jun 7, 2015 3:08:59 GMT -5
Was that variator coated with the black Teflon ? If so , that is "somewhat" normal. The Teflon coating in many of the cheap performance variators dose not last what so ever. It is suppose to help the rollers and sliders move , but it just disintegrates within miles. If it didn't have the coating , I'm not sure where it came from .
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Post by geh3333 on Jun 6, 2015 5:45:26 GMT -5
My Dad lives in Belen. Would you mind sending some of your rain down to him please?  He says they're below where they should be.... I agree that if your scooter is your primary transportation, then you don't have a choice, and you have to do whatever you can to keep it drivable even in pouring rain (and I'm sorry for you then 'cause that must be miserable driving). But those of us with cars, there's no reason to take that risk of reduced visibility and reduced traction. >'Kat And don't forget, Kitten - reduced visibility applies to all, not just the scoot rider. Those in cars can't see you very well either. I think GEH even had a Bambi stroll out and attack his scoot one day, mistaking it for a sea lion. Maybe it was dark, not rain, that caused his reduced visibility problem ... Yeah , it was dark and having a tinted visor with the stock headlights was a recipe for disaster !! Lol |
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Post by geh3333 on Jun 6, 2015 5:42:22 GMT -5
I recently replaced my variator and clutch and after a single ride for a few hours, I noticed there is a ton of black-brownish dust under the variator plate and all over the weights. The belt is in good condition and the variator is fine as well. I don't really see any dust outside of the variator. The rest of the CVT area is clean. What is causing this massive build up of dust only within the variator? The weights are still in good condition as well. No plastic is worn off.  Wow , that was clean before the run ? That's a lot of dirt/dust. |
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Post by geh3333 on Jun 5, 2015 21:39:31 GMT -5
did you disassemble the clutch, remove the 4 springs repack the bearings? From what he said , I think he did ? He said the sliding sheeve was loose so I would imagine he at least removed the main spring. I don't think the three clutch springs would be an issue at idle. I'd like to see him jump the scoot from a car and see how it does . not sure if he repacked the bearings. I always do when I remove the clutch. I'd also like to see a video of the CVT when cranking, although it would be hard to see a problem , unless you could hear a strange noise. If the clutch was engaging , the Scot should be jerking. |
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Post by geh3333 on Jun 5, 2015 21:34:29 GMT -5
Belt snapping , can only be caused by too much tension or high heat. High heat is out of the question ,so it has to be belt tension. High compression cannot cause belt tension . bad crank bearings cannot cause belt tension , so it has to be in the clutch . Can you jump the scoot from a car and try to start it ? I'm saying it has to be in the clutch because the 2nd belt broke. But was the belt defective ? I don't know. Can't be tranny bearings , because they are not at play at idle. Variator ? I don't think so . Hmmm, its going to take some more time to find the exact issue.
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