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Post by gy6girl on Mar 31, 2013 20:55:07 GMT -5
Really? Usually I make foam props for magicians and entertainers.... www.raincloudmagic.com/products-page/foam-propsBut sure... I can make floats. Right now I am just using my hotdog mold and cutting it, but I can make an exact size mold and make better floats than what comes with it. |
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Post by gy6girl on Mar 31, 2013 20:41:31 GMT -5
And with the new clutch springs... The clutch exploded!!
Two of the pads broke all to pieces.
Not sure what the moral of the story is.
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Post by gy6girl on Mar 31, 2013 20:34:17 GMT -5
So.. Who all has played "fishing the rotten gas float out of the gas tank" game?
Not my favorite game to play.
This is the second time I had to do it on two different scooters.
You just have to destroy it and get it out in pieces, because it's expanded and won't fit through the hole.
I do mold making and cast foam rubber and foam plastic pieces, so I just make new floats.
The urethane plastic I use doesn't dissolve in gas.
This time, not only did the float rot and fall off, the potentiometer wasn't working either. Jumping the leads causes the needle to move so I knew that worked.
So I popped it apart, and with some fine grain sand paper I sanded down the contacts, and now it works great.
Anyone else had this problem?
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Post by gy6girl on Mar 30, 2013 14:36:20 GMT -5
When he jumped the SOLENOID IT SPUN his starter so it is not the battery. Alleyoop Yeah.. I didn't read all the posts. |
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Post by gy6girl on Mar 30, 2013 13:02:29 GMT -5
I own that same type of scooter.
I bought it used for $120 because it stopped starting and he couldn't fix it.
He replaced the coil and sparkplug cable, the sparkplug, the solenoid, and still couldn't get it to start.
Then I came along.
Well here is a scooter that doesn't run. So offered him $120 and he took it.
What was wrong with it?
Bad battery.
I don't know if it has something to do with the fact that these scooters are DC, but they have to have a good battery.
The guy told me he checked and charged the battery and it was fine. Wrong.
Yeah, if you put a multi-meter on it, it says it has the voltage.
But put a real battery tester and throw a load onto it, you can then see it doesn't have the amps to keep up.
Putting a charger on the battery on surface charges the battery and it still doesn't have enough power to work the scooter.
I pulled the battery off of my other other scooter and put it on there... vrrrooomm!!
Started right up.... $120!
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Post by gy6girl on Mar 30, 2013 12:49:26 GMT -5
It could possibly be the electronic flasher.
One time, with a new scooter, the blinkers wouldn't work.
I went over every wiring with a meter and tested everything trying to find out why.
Nothing was wrong with the wires. Everything was making connection.
I even bypassed the flasher circuit with power and the lamps would light up.
It had to be the flasher circuit.
I took the flasher off of it and broke into the housing.
It's a pretty basic transistor circuit.
I drew out the exact schematics of the circuit on paper.
It was quite obvious something was wrong.
None of the electronics were being taken back to ground, or negative.
Transistors don't work very good without it. So the blinkers never worked.
So I ordered another one. It showed up, I installed it, and TADA!! Blinkers.
Go figure?
You can't trust anything made in China.
I say order another one. They're cheap.
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Post by gy6girl on Mar 28, 2013 21:12:27 GMT -5
Make it.
Aluminum angle & flat bar, insulated foam board, and self tapping screws.
Wouldn't be that hard.
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Post by gy6girl on Mar 27, 2013 14:29:54 GMT -5
Aren't all CDI's technically both AC and DC?
I am pretty sure that they both convert one to another for one reason or another.
They call them DC or AC because of what electricity goes into them.
While looking for a DC CDI, I read that they convert to AC for the spark.
I am pretty sure that the AC CDI's convert to DC for some of the digital electronics. They have to.
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Post by gy6girl on Mar 26, 2013 17:08:37 GMT -5
Have you checked the fuel pump or valve and the fuel filter?
Or just checked to see if the fuel flow is fine?
I'm taking that you have.
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Post by gy6girl on Mar 26, 2013 15:28:41 GMT -5
i run the blue springs and the yellow torque spring the yellow clutch springs just weren't for me I think I'm with you. I live in North Texas, not a lot of hills, some but not a lot. Most hills are down south and to the west. I'm in prairie country. So I think the 1000rpm will be better. |
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Post by gy6girl on Mar 26, 2013 15:22:10 GMT -5
oops... I meant blue springs. The blue are the lowest, not red.
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Post by gy6girl on Mar 26, 2013 15:17:25 GMT -5
I bought a 1500 contra spring, a yellow one. I also bought 1500 clutch springs, yellow again.
I bought them because I like the idea of having better acceleration after slowing down.
When I finally got those damn nuts off of it and put them on... ehhhh...
It's okay, but only thing I really noticed was better mid-range.
Take off was a tad slower, top speed was about the same, but in between there, it seemed better.
I'm now thinking about keeping the contra spring and changing the clutch springs. Lowering them. Maybe try some of those red ones.
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Post by gy6girl on Mar 26, 2013 14:35:22 GMT -5
Some live in hilly areas and need the motors to always run at higher rpms to get up the hills at a descent speed otherwise they will be walking the scooter up the hill or crawling at 15mph up it. Not really understanding that. I guess one could say that a higher rpm will translate to higher torque... But for hilly areas, wouldn't you go with a stronger contra spring and lighter rollers? Wouldn't that make more of a difference than at what rpm your clutch engages? |
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Post by gy6girl on Mar 26, 2013 13:09:58 GMT -5
Thanks.. I think I can wrap my head around it now. I think I see where I was looking at it wrong. I thought the clutch springs had something to do with how the pulley opens up, which it doesn't. That's what was messing me up. I was wondering how in the world do you decide on the right springs when both sets of springs are doing the same thing? The answer.. they are not. So let me get this straight... The contra spring is what controls how much force it takes to open the clutch pulleys. The clutch springs control on how much force it takes to engage the pulley to the back wheel. See, I always thought the variator was what acted like a clutch, which it does, but it's not alone. The clutch pulley and springs do the same thing. Got it! Why would you not want the lowest clutch springs possible? What good would it do to have to have higher rpms just to engage the wheel? Especially when the variator works as a type of clutch itself. |
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Post by gy6girl on Mar 25, 2013 18:36:40 GMT -5
I read through the PDF's of the CVT.
Everything there, I get, and kind of already knew.
What it didn't say, and what I am trying to wrap my head around, is the clutch springs.
So stronger the springs, the more rpms it will take to open them up, thus allowing the clutch pulley to open up.
The weaker they are, the less rpms it has to have for the pulley to open up.
But, it's also pushing against the contra spring, so that will effect how the clutch pulley opens.
How is the best way to work this out?
The contra spring is all about pushing the pulleys back together.
So.. my guess.. and please correct me if I am wrong...
If I put a heavy contra spring on, but light clutch springs, that would mean the clutch springs would open at low rpms allowing it the pulleys to open as much as easily as it can with a heavy contra spring.
Now, wouldn't that just equal things out?
Would you ever want to go light clutch springs, heavy contra spring, or the other way around?
Wouldn't it be best to do the same sizes as clutch and contra springs?
Please discuss...
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