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Post by gatekeeper on Sept 21, 2014 13:44:44 GMT -5
This is the idle set screw:  |
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Hello!
by: gatekeeper - Sept 21, 2014 1:48:34 GMT -5
Post by gatekeeper on Sept 21, 2014 1:48:34 GMT -5
Hi Holly and welcome to the forum. I like the color combination on your scooter.  Just take it slow and get used to your new ride. I don't know what your experience level is but you might want to consider taking a motorcycle safety course. I took one after I had been riding for years and learned a lot. |
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Post by gatekeeper on Sept 21, 2014 1:41:18 GMT -5
If that thing has a third hose coming out of it then it is the vacuum operated fuel petcock. It just needs to be attached to the frame somewhere so that the fuel lines follow a steady decline from the tank to the carb without any ups and downs. If it just has the two hoses that I can see it is probably a check valve for the tank vent. Regardless just attach it to the frame.
For the idle there is an adjustment screw located just forward of where the throttle cable attaches on the carb. Turning it counterclockwise will lower the idle. If you have a tachometer set the idle at 1800 to 2000 RPM. If no tach just set it so the rear wheel doesn't turn. While on the center stand at proper idle the rear wheel may "bump" a bit but that's OK if you can hold it in place without a drop in idle speed. Do the adjustment after the engine is warmed up. That way the auto enricher "choke" will have cut off the extra fuel flow needed for cold starting.
Congrats on getting it going!
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Post by gatekeeper on Sept 20, 2014 16:36:42 GMT -5
Ya that's how I get my best deals. "Gee it won't run!" Talk them down, clean the carb and it runs like new! With only 35 miles on it your wife is going to have a great scooter!  |
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Post by gatekeeper on Sept 20, 2014 15:08:00 GMT -5
Hmm, Kirkland is a ways from Shelton. Bummer.
The hose you're talking about is a drain hose for the carb bowl. There is a screw in the bottom of the metal fitting at the end of the hose you use to drain the carb. These screws often vibrate loose, letting your carb drain as you drive down the road. Secure it with a gob of silicon sealent so it doesn't vibrate loose. It takes the place of the drain screw that used to be on the bottom of the bowl. The metal fitting at the end of the hose is usually mounted with a bolt to the CVT cover. Just take that bolt out then leave the hose connected to the carb as you pull the carb out of the engine bay.
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Post by gatekeeper on Sept 20, 2014 13:56:38 GMT -5
Welcome to the forum. Where at in Washington are you? If you aren't too far from me I wouldn't mind giving you a hand. It sounds like the main jet in the carb is gunked up, not letting fuel pass. The carb needs to come off and be thoroughly cleaned. Or you can get a new one off Ebay for under $25.00 shipped. The advantage to that is that the air/fuel mixture screw won't have a brass plug covering it, making adjustments easy. New carb: www.ebay.com/itm/280875327579?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649How to clean carb: |
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Post by gatekeeper on Sept 15, 2014 20:02:38 GMT -5
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Post by gatekeeper on Sept 15, 2014 19:46:42 GMT -5
The Chinese use a different method to rate the octane levels in their fuel than we do in the U.S. Their 91 is about equal to our 87. I use 87 octane in all of my two wheeled vehicles with no ill effects.
For the difference in price that your picture shows I would not opt for the ethanol free.
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Post by gatekeeper on Sept 10, 2014 9:37:18 GMT -5
The valve adjustment will be on the right side the muffler side: Alleyoop No, the valve adjustment is on the left side of the engine. Same side as the air filter housing. |
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Post by gatekeeper on Sept 1, 2014 16:08:00 GMT -5
I've seen cinder blocks crumble with cars setting on them before.
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Post by gatekeeper on Sept 1, 2014 14:35:03 GMT -5
While both are very useful, duct tape has my vote.  |
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Post by gatekeeper on Sept 1, 2014 12:30:15 GMT -5
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Post by gatekeeper on Sept 1, 2014 12:20:51 GMT -5
Electrical is all good.  Do need to replace my high beam though, no light out of the big one, only the lower running light. The headlight won't come on until the engine is running. It is not fed from the battery. It gets it's power from the stator. |
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Post by gatekeeper on Aug 27, 2014 19:17:15 GMT -5
Both the large and small red wires go to the positive post. The green wire goes to the negative post. When hooking up a battery do the positive first and negative last. That way if you accidently ground your tool you will not get any sparks. Do the opposite when unhooking a battery.
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Post by gatekeeper on Aug 25, 2014 16:15:41 GMT -5
Wile E. Coyote. He always got up to do the next cartoon!
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