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Post by natetheokay on Sept 5, 2013 16:27:13 GMT -5
My favorite website for navigability it partsforscooters. Very clean and lots of useful measurements and other helpful things like that.
Mainely Scooters has an overwhelmingly large variety of parts and i've had good experiences on their shipping speeds, prices, and returns. Downside is not everything has a good photo.
Enviromoto has a limited selection, but i've always been quite happy with the quality they offer, the ease of returns, and the responsiveness to questions I've submitted.
Spi-parts.com has a somewhat weird and limited selection of parts and shipping is killer, but some of the parts are so very cheap, especially if you watch for sales on their FB page. They will, however, often forget to ship your parts if you don't pester them.
If you're buying from scrappydog, make sure you check their eBay store, because things are often cheaper there than on their website.
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Post by natetheokay on Jul 12, 2013 11:36:56 GMT -5
cheaper to buy the springs clutch and variator separate, i got the springs torque and clutch from scrappys ebay store for under 20 bucks for both, a koso variator for 25 on ebay, a performance clutch from scrappys for 39, and dr pulley sliders for 20, so 110 bucks shipped  Seeing as how they're all from Taiwan anyway, I shouldn't be much concerned about the quality of a "Name Brand" like NCY vs something from Scrappy? Hard to argue with the savings... |
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Post by natetheokay on Jul 12, 2013 11:02:03 GMT -5
Question: is upgrading the clutch and torque spring along with the variator helpful, or just a big waste of money for my scooter? $160 is a lot, guess it depends what your hoping to get out of it. Ha, true about the money. I just look at it this way: we save so much on insurance and gas since we sold one of the cars, it can't hurt spend some of the savings on the scooter hobby, right? On the other hand, the casual observer might say i'm on a quest to break everything on my scooter, one part at a time. |
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Post by natetheokay on Jul 12, 2013 9:09:30 GMT -5
Setup: 50cc 4T (qmb139), stock everything (except for variator weights). I'm looking to change out my transmission in the near future and I was initially going to just replace the variator. However, I'm also considering a full blown transmission upgrade (something like this: enviromoto.ecrater.com/p/6055029/ncy-performance-transmission-kit-gy6-50). Question: is upgrading the clutch and torque spring along with the variator helpful, or just a big waste of money for my scooter? |
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Post by natetheokay on Jun 27, 2013 15:20:16 GMT -5
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Post by natetheokay on May 27, 2013 9:44:23 GMT -5
Checked the cable and it has a good bit of slack. I also looked at the throttle plate inside the carb to make sure it closes fully and it does.
I took out the A/F screw all the way and there's a small spring inside the opening. Is it possible that the spring prevents the A/F screw from closing all the way to prevent flow? Before installing the spring on the diaphragm, this never prevented me from killing the engine via the A/F screw, but i'm willing to consider anything.
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Post by natetheokay on May 26, 2013 17:00:38 GMT -5
Okay, got the spring in the mail yesterday and installed it today. Bogging issues seemed to have vanished. However, now even when I screw the A/F screw all the way in and the idle screw all the way out, I idle at about 3100. Prior to my spring install, 3100 was where I kept the RPMs, but I could lower it by adjusting AF and Idle screws.
Obviously, if it runs okay, i don't mind too much, but I still find it strange that I can't drop the RPMs any lower...
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Post by natetheokay on May 24, 2013 8:48:21 GMT -5
I had similar starting problems previously and I had to replace my battery. It still gave spark but wouldn't hold a good charge for more than a few days. You might want to try charging the battery or jumping it to see if starts right away. If so, could be time for a new battery.
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Post by natetheokay on May 24, 2013 8:44:20 GMT -5
I found this carburetor spring, does it look like it fits the bill? At $2.50, i'm hoping so! eshop.mainelyscooters.com/151-179Otherwise I'll jump in with an all new carburetor. If that works, i'll have to look for a new way to break the scooter, seeing as how i've managed to damage just about everything with my amateur wrenching. |
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Post by natetheokay on May 23, 2013 12:52:11 GMT -5
Okay, so I checked all my lines and made sure the air filter assembly was well sealed, no luck same symptoms. I took apart the carburetor and I noticed that there's no spring between the vacuum chamber cover and the diaphragm piston (there's one shown in the gy6 shop manual in the vacuum chamber breakdown section). Could this be the source of my problems (i.e. do all/most stock carbs have a spring between the cover and diaphragm)? Suggestions on where to get one, if needed?
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Post by natetheokay on May 22, 2013 10:10:54 GMT -5
Thanks Larry, i'll give the hoses a good look over and see what I find.
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Post by natetheokay on May 22, 2013 8:30:52 GMT -5
Okay, I followed the steps carefully and took my time, getting up to max RPMs and then adjusting the idle to just before the wheel spins (approx. 3000 rpms). That helped, but the engine still dies when opening up the throttle quickly. It also dies after idling a minute or two just after a cold start (i.e. after enricher closes), but will idle normally after giving a few minutes to warm further (accomplished by opening the throttle a little to give it more fuel).
Assuming the A/F mix screw on the carb itself is optimal, what do the above symptoms imply? Too much air, too little? Are the valves too tight (I adjusted them to the .06/.08 specs on VIN plate).
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Post by natetheokay on May 20, 2013 12:10:06 GMT -5
I've got a 50cc 4T (qmb139) that I recently replaced the air filter/box on (as well as the shock absorber, coil, valve adjustment, and more). It ran fine for the first 2 days, but then after I started the scoot, it died if I opened the throttle at all.
I took it apart and found that the vent spigot on the valve cover had popped off (there doesn't really seem to be anything holding the stupid thing in) so I reattached it.
Now, after warming up, the scooter will die if I open the throttle all the way (i.e. go from idle to WOT), but works fine if I open the throttle slowly from idle to WOT. Any idea how to get my poor little scoot back to top condition?
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Post by natetheokay on Apr 23, 2013 8:52:17 GMT -5
My qmb139 scooter keeps bottoming out, so I thought i'd upgrade the shocks for a smoother ride. Can anyone share their experience?
I removed the old rear mono-shock and it's 220mm eye-to-eye. I see plenty of 280mm, some 235mm rear shocks out there for sale, but almost no 220s. Will it hurt for me to bump to a longer shock? There looks to be plenty of clearance (after I removed the old shock, the rear jumped up several inches).
Also, any suggestions for a "better than stock but doesn't break the bank" purchase?
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Post by natetheokay on Apr 14, 2013 9:34:41 GMT -5
I've got a 7-month old Peace TPGS-27 (QMB139, 4T 50cc) with about 650 miles on it. I've had a host of minor problems with it (headlights didn't work, battery went bad, air filter box snapped off, valves too tight, etc) but i've hit my first big breakdown.
On the way to work, the engine just shut off (there may have been a noise when it happened, but not sure with all the traffic), while the throttle was wide open. I pulled off to the side and checked the kill switch and key position, everything looked ok. Using the electric starter, the engine turns over, but will no start. Here's what i've done so far:
Checked all lines for obstruction (none found)
Disassembled carburetor (it's clean and had gas in it)
Checked for spark (it has an NGK plug and it has spark)
Set valves to factory recommendations (.06/.08mm)
Charged battery and checked oil.
After all of the above, the engine still just turns over without starting. What's my next line of attack? A compression check? Thanks in advance!
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