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Post by mattdel on Jun 23, 2013 18:40:07 GMT -5
Same as any other master cylinder you'd buy. The spot where you screw the line into has a plug in it.
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Post by mattdel on Jun 23, 2013 18:34:44 GMT -5
Then I'd say you either A.) Didnt remove a fluid plug on the new master, or B.) they're no good
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Post by mattdel on Jun 23, 2013 18:28:34 GMT -5
Doing some tweaking to my ride while I suffer out the time of keeping it 49cc.
Currently the valves are at .003 and I'm getting an exhaust backfire on deceleration + valve slap over 7k rpm. I'd like to open them up a bit but not sure on where to put them for best performance to meet my needs, which brings me around to the sliders.
My current variator weights(rollers) have a few flat spots on them, which makes for a rather wobbly ride when there's a bit of resistance (up hill). They are 7G weights. My "problem" right now is that my RPM's are at about 8k when I'm doing roughly 30mph(I'm about 210lbs), and I'd like to rectify that without losing (hopefully gaining) up hill power. The real powerband of this engine feels like it's right in the 6.5-7K RPM range.
Can I go with a stiffer clutch spring to "beef up" my low range power and go to a heavier weight slider to sustain lower RPMs at higher speeds? I'm really trying to nail a perfect medium here and I'm not sure which combo of things will give it to me. Any suggestions?
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Post by mattdel on May 22, 2013 10:36:32 GMT -5
I wouldn't worry too much about it. It was a legitimate diagnostic test that worked, using a compound created for just that sort of thing. I'm also an ASE master auto tech, been using this stuff for 15 years. Its non flammable and dried with the heat created from a prolonged test ride, hence why the vibration returned at the end.
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Post by mattdel on May 21, 2013 12:30:20 GMT -5
Belts in good shape all the way around, holding up well for the stock one. Barely any powder in the case after 1600 miles. I did find that 3 of my weights have some flat spots, I sprayed some silicone lubricant on them and the vibration went away, so looks like I'm going to need some new ones. I also found the source of the noise, loose exhaust bolts caused by the vibration I assume.
I'm left wondering what weight I should get. My stock rollers were 7g, and aside from lousy hill performance, it's right where I want it to be. I was planning on going with a BBK to help with hills and leaving everything else as is, as that would be just about perfect I feel for what I want from the scoot.
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Post by mattdel on May 20, 2013 19:51:00 GMT -5
I should add the sound is more like a baseball card in my spokes, obviously its not but its a thin, flapping sound.
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Post by mattdel on May 20, 2013 17:15:27 GMT -5
My 50 has been developing a nasty vibration at around 5k RPM, 25-28mph. Anywhere else, no vibration. In my year spent as a golf cart mechanic(CVT driven), this vibration was usually the result of a gouge in the variator pulley causing the belt to shake @ one particular spot on the pulley. I just checked, I don't have that problem. This also happens to be right in the spot that my bike slows to on the hills that I ride daily(backroad mountains), thus my thinking that bogging it down constantly in that 1 range was cutting a groove in the pulley. Nope.
Any ideas? It's getting worse, to the point of making some weird grinding/flapping noise.
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Post by mattdel on Mar 27, 2013 18:10:47 GMT -5
Update: works! The intake was at less than .001 and the exhaust was closed tight. Set them both to .004 and we're off to the races! Best it's ever ran! Thanks ;D
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Post by mattdel on Mar 26, 2013 19:30:21 GMT -5
let me know if you need any how to links If you happen to have any, that'd be sweet. I'll take care of it tomorrow, gonna be nice out. |
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Post by mattdel on Mar 26, 2013 17:59:50 GMT -5
No I haven't checked valves, although that maybe makes sense. I had a faint pop today that sounded like a valve problem.
The fuel system is working as it should. I checked it, then I bypassed it. Same results all around.
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Post by mattdel on Mar 26, 2013 15:13:29 GMT -5
So I've been having an issue with my Roketa that gradually grew from a sometimes hard to start and idle to now, it will start and run great at 3k for a few and then almost exactly 15 seconds later, it will die as if I drained the bowl. If you immediately start feathering and holding high revs after you start it, it will do the exact same thing. 15 or so seconds in, it starves of fuel and dies. Sometimes it's hard to start/restart, sometimes it's not. No matter what though, it will not stay running. Bear in mind, this carb is the new EPA model that has no adjustment screws. (Someone tell me I need a new carb and link me an adjustable version  I'm pretty sure it's gonna end up being related to the main diaphragm up top, leaky or something. I took it all apart, cleaned my jets etc.. Main diaphragm and accelerator pump looked fine, but I'm not all that experienced with these chinese carbs. Any thoughts? |
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