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Post by bob123456789 on Feb 26, 2017 11:33:57 GMT -5
See , that is why I am here. You are both right dolartwentyfiv and rockynv that is not the head gasket but the base gasket that I had copper coated. It had come in the same supplier as the head. I do have another head gasket in the gasket kit I bought. It has not been copper coated yet Here are some pictures of the new head gasket that was in but leaking. This gasket came with the new head when I bought it. Something I thought of last night is I didn't clean or oil the stud threads before putting the nuts on again. While this have impacted my torques?    |
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Post by bob123456789 on Feb 25, 2017 16:40:09 GMT -5
Here are some of the things rockynv asked for: Old gasket thickness 1.4 mm Old dowel outside diameter 14.0 mm Old dowel pin length 15.9 mm New dowel outside diameter 13.94 mm New dowel length 15.9 mm New head: Dowel hole diameter 13.75 mm Dowel hole depth 9.0 mm (measured by putting the new dowel in the hole and measuring the amount remaining out then subtracting from the length of the dowel pin) Old head: Dowel hole diameter 13.  mm Dowel hole depth 9.0 mm (measured by putting the new dowel in the hole and measuring the amount remaining out then subtracting from the length of the dowel pin) Block Dowel depth 8.0 mm Dowel diameter not available since the stud is going thorough it My new gasket is too sticky with the Copper Coat to measure or try fitting to test the thickness. Should I use grease on the dowel pins when I reassemble it this time too help them seat deeply in the holes? Should I be replacing the head gasket that has the multiple layers with one that is just plastic? I am not seeing anything real obvious as to why it is leaking oil and antifreeze. Maybe a slight amount of rust in the dowel holes in the block? Any insight into how to solve this would be really appreciated. Next steps? |
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Post by bob123456789 on Feb 25, 2017 14:45:07 GMT -5
First pics are attached. These are: New Head New gasket with copper coat Gasket that was in while the leaks occurred Cylinder block top The gasket which was in there when it leaked was steel on the inside with a thin layer of plastic on either side. The gasket that came with the new head is one layer of plastic. I don't recall ever seeing seals on the dowel pins. Even though I let the copper coat 24 hours it is still sticky. I will start checking some of things rockynv steered me to. Next steps?         |
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Post by bob123456789 on Feb 23, 2017 9:00:57 GMT -5
rockynv. Do these seem like good next steps?
1. Pull the new head off the block apart using the shop manual steps.
2. Inspect the block, the head, the head gasket and the dowels for any damage. Check the dowel pin fit in the new head.
3. I have a new head gasket that came with the head. Use it.
4. Spray the new gasket with copper coat.
5. I have one new dowel. I will use it.
6. Put everything back together following the shop manual.
I only have one new dowel pin. Should I get another before trying the steps above?
Should I use anything other than copper coat on the gasket?
dollartwentyfi. Thanks that is a good idea. I will do that if I take it apart again.
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Post by bob123456789 on Feb 22, 2017 15:25:38 GMT -5
rockynv. I compared the head gasket that came with the new head and another gasket that came in the gasket kit I bought and they are very similar in thickness. The one that came with the new head may be just a bit thicker.
It is hard to say for sure since the one that came with the gasket kit is still on the engine.
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Post by bob123456789 on Feb 22, 2017 9:29:00 GMT -5
If I look at things objectively the odds are pretty high that it is something I did incorrectly. The head is new. It is my first time and I was working on it alone. I did follow a shop manual step by step. However I did not use the gasket that came with the head. I used one from a gasket kit I bought.
I will not over torque the nuts and bolts.
Do these seem like good next steps?
1. Pull the new head off the block apart using the shop manual steps.
2. Inspect the block, the head, the head gasket and the dowels for any damage. Check the dowel pin fit in the new head.
3. I have a new head gasket that came with the head. Use it.
4. Spray the new gasket with copper coat.
5. I have one new dowel. I will use it.
6. Put everything back together following the shop manual.
I only have one new dowel pin. Should I get another before trying the steps above?
Should I use anything other than copper coat on the gasket?
dollartwentyfi The head has four nuts and two bolts. I am pretty sure that I didn't put them in the same order they came off. The head is new so there shouldn't be an junk in the dowel pin holes. I don't recall seeing anything in the dowel holes in the block. Four of the six head attachments are nuts so nothing fell in them. I did carefully use a razor blade and gas to remove the old gasket from the block which is steel.
RockyNV I am not 100% sure what the gasket material is. I think some kind of plastic.
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Post by bob123456789 on Feb 21, 2017 15:31:13 GMT -5
Would torqueing the bolts more than the specs say to try to get the gaskets to seal be a good idea or a bad idea?
I'm just not sure what I've done wrong. I have definitely taken my time and tried to do it right.
I was pretty careful with the aluminum.
How do I tell if the dowel pins aren't too long? I used the old ones. I have two new ones. Should I have used them?
I have a new head gasket that came with the head. I had used head gasket that came in a gasket kit. Should I get some Copper Coat and try to replace the head gasket with the one that came with the head and use copper coat?
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Post by bob123456789 on Feb 21, 2017 10:23:49 GMT -5
Thanks Dollartwentyfive. I pulled the slow jet and soaked both it and the main carb cleaner. This made no difference when I tried to start it. Both jets looked relatively clean before I cleaned them. I posted a video in post 15 of this link showing the fuel provided by my fuel pump. Does it look adequate? itistheride.boards.net/thread/9999/linhai-help-removing-vacuum-head?page=2The big issue for me right now are the leaks from the head. I have confirmed it is both antifreeze and oil. When I put them together I torqued the nuts to 16 foot pounds and the bolts to 7 foot pounds. The main issue I am having right now is that I am getting slight liquid leakage from some of my gaskets. It looks like antifreeze. I think is mainly coming from the joint between the block and the head. When I put it together I used a torque wrench and torqued it to the specs in the manual. I used new gaskets with no RTV and cleaned the old gaskets off good. There are three things I can think of doing. The first is do torque it more than the specs indicated (I don't want to damage anything). The second is to wait and see if the gaskets might swell a bit on there own. The third is to pull it apart and use a new gasket and/or RTV. How do I stop the leaking from the head gasket? Any good ideas folks? |
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Post by bob123456789 on Feb 20, 2017 9:38:47 GMT -5
Just to be clear I did not use RTV on either of my head or base gaskets. I have a very small antifreeze leak that I need to solve. I used new gaskets.
The main issue I am having right now is that I am getting slight liquid leakage from some of my gaskets. It looks like antifreeze. I think is mainly coming from the joint between the block and the head. When I put it together I used a torque wrench and torqued it to the specs in the manual. I used new gaskets with no RTV and cleaned the old gaskets off good. There are three things I can think of doing. The first is do torque it more than the specs indicated (I don't want to damage anything). The second is to wait and see if the gaskets might swell a bit on there own. The third is to pull it apart and use a new gasket and/or RTV.
How do I solve the leaking?
The next issue is when I turn it over nothing happens with everything together. It doesn't ever fire. When I pulled the air box off it will fire and run briefly if I hold my hand over the air intake on the carb. This indicates to me that the air/fuel ratio isn't correct on the carb. Is my thinking right? When I then put the air box back on and moved the a/f screw to several positions I could never get it to fire.
How do I get it to fire with the air box on?
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Post by bob123456789 on Feb 19, 2017 17:09:24 GMT -5
I have a Linhai 257 cc to which I am changing the head and the piston and the rings. I am just putting things back together and am at a point where I could use the help of the good people on this board once again for two issues.
The main issue I am having right now is that I am getting slight liquid leakage from some of my gaskets. It looks like antifreeze. I think is mainly coming from the joint between the block and the head. When I put it together I used a torque wrench and torqued it to the specs in the manual. I used new gaskets with no RTV and cleaned the old gaskets off good. There are three things I can think of doing. The first is do torque it more than the specs indicated (I don't want to damage anything). The second is to wait and see if the gaskets might swell a bit on there own. The third is to pull it apart and use a new gasket and/or RTV.
How do I solve the leaking?
The next issue is when I turn it over nothing happens with everything together. It doesn't ever fire. When I pulled the air box off it will fire and run briefly if I hold my hand over the air intake on the carb. This indicates to me that the air/fuel ratio isn't correct on the carb. Is my thinking right? When I then put the air box back on and moved the a/f screw to several positions I could never get it to fire.
How do I get it to fire with the air box on? |
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Post by bob123456789 on Feb 19, 2017 15:22:43 GMT -5
Cyborb. If the existing pump is working I'd rather not change it.
Can you see from the video if it looks like it is working correctly?
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Post by bob123456789 on Feb 19, 2017 8:57:26 GMT -5
Regarding this "I decided to test the fuel pump and see how it is working. When I removed the fuel line between the fuel pump and the carb and turned it over the fuel is not very strong. I don't know if this is normal or if I have low vacuum or a bad pump.". Last night I decided a picture would be a lot more useful than my description. This morning I have taken a video of the fuel pumping. It is here: View My VideoDoes the fuel volume look adequate? dollartwentyfive. Mine has a vacuum fuel pump. How does low vacuum at high engine speed show up? Limited top speed, not responsive at top speeds?... Did you change yours to electric? |
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Post by bob123456789 on Feb 18, 2017 20:26:32 GMT -5
The nipple came from Parts for Scooters and I installed it. I am working on putting the rest of the engine back together.
I decided to test the fuel pump and see how it is working. When I removed the fuel line between the fuel pump and the carb and turned it over the fuel is not very strong. I don't know if this is normal or if I have low vacuum or a bad pump.
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Post by bob123456789 on Feb 7, 2017 10:11:34 GMT -5
Glad to hear you are now pointed in the right direction and feel comfortable with the issue.
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Post by bob123456789 on Feb 6, 2017 11:43:48 GMT -5
If you want to you can download the entire pdf file then just print out the pages you need 96-100.
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mm