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Post by bob123456789 on Dec 5, 2016 13:21:02 GMT -5
Crawford.
When I add oil to the cylinder and then do a compression test my compression is still only one hundred and thirty psi.
Doesn't that indicate that there is some kind of problem? Isn't normal compression for this engine two hundred psi?
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Post by bob123456789 on Dec 2, 2016 8:24:09 GMT -5
What next?
Drain the coolant, paint the cam chain and the sprocket to mark them correctly, wire the chain so it doesn't fall in the engine, pull the head off and look at the valves?
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Post by bob123456789 on Dec 1, 2016 20:48:56 GMT -5
What should my next step be?
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Post by bob123456789 on Nov 30, 2016 19:06:16 GMT -5
Thank you tortoise.
I wasn't holding the throttle wide open when I did it earlier. When I did hold my throttle wide open my compression was one hundred and ten psi. When I added oil to the cylinder and held the throttle wide open my compression was one hundred thirty psi.
Both of these are with a cold engine.
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Post by bob123456789 on Nov 30, 2016 16:00:42 GMT -5
Ninety psi
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Post by bob123456789 on Nov 30, 2016 15:59:50 GMT -5
My compression is  psi now. |
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Post by bob123456789 on Nov 30, 2016 13:56:51 GMT -5
I just turned it over. My compression is still psi, just like before the work. I didn't hear any unusual noises. What next? Drain the coolant, paint the cam chain and the sprocket to mark them correctly, wire the chain so it doesn't fall in the engine, pull the head off and look at the valves? |
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Post by bob123456789 on Nov 28, 2016 21:51:07 GMT -5
Linhai 257 cc.
I could use some help form the knowledgeable folks here.
My questions are:
1) Do you see anything in the pictures in the post above of the piston top and the spark plug of concern? After the work done in the previous posts?
2) Given the work I have done do you think I can turn it over to do a compression test and not damage anything? I have:
- Moved the timing chain one (or more) tooth on the sprocket so that the marks on the cam chain sprocket side line up with the housing at the same time as on the other side the marks in in the hole above the oil drain plug line up.
3) With the marks mentioned in #2 lined up checked that the exhaust valve was at 0.005 inches and that the intake valve was at 0.004 inches. These did not need to be adjusted.
Thanks for helping with this.
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Post by bob123456789 on Nov 26, 2016 19:42:17 GMT -5
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Post by bob123456789 on Nov 26, 2016 10:47:01 GMT -5
RockyNV's idea of looking inside the cylinder for damage with a camera is a great idea. This way you don't have to pull the head to see. Does anyone know where I can get a similar camera locally (fry's, microcenter,...)? RockyNV did your camera successfully work on an Android phone? I have not been able to get my camera working on my phone yet. I have posted on a couple of Android forums in case they may be able to help. My endoscope camera is not recognized on my Moto E phone. I bought an endoscope camera. Please see the link below. I have a Motorola Moto E the first model. I have downloaded the two apk files that come with it and was able to successfully install them. One is Endoscope2.apk and the other is USBWebcamera220.apk. I can open both apps but neither sees the camera which is attached via the USB C. The camera shows no lights. How do I get this working? It would be nice to get it going ASAP so I can complete the task I bought it for. Thanks for everyone's help! www.amazon.com/gp/product/98036My plan to day is to focus on getting the camera working so I see if there is any damage inside the cylinder or valves. After I moved the cam chain on the sprocket does anyone have any advice about how to ensure that I don't end up with spaghetti valves? I have not done a compression test yet. Before turning it over I am waiting on 1) Feedback from this forum on regarding is it safe to? 2) Visual inspection of the cylinder and valves. |
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Post by bob123456789 on Nov 25, 2016 14:59:06 GMT -5
Still haven't been able to get the camera up and working on my Android phone.
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Post by bob123456789 on Nov 24, 2016 19:18:58 GMT -5
Any words of advice before I turn it over to test the compression? Anything I can do to prevent spaghetti valves I want to.
I pulled the chain tensioner and it looked fine. With the tensioner loose I could move the chain around on the top sprocket. I slide it until marks on the sprocket lined up with the one on the housing at the same time as one in the hole above the oil fill plug were lined up. I rotated the variator nut clockwise to tighten the chain. I put the tensioner back on
I then made sure that the marks on the cam sprocket (top) matched up with the one on the housing at the same time the one on the other slide just above the oil plug was lined up with the one on its housing. I then checked both valves. Exhaust at 0.005 inches and intake at 0.004 inches. With the alignment marks in the correct position both valves were set correctly and did not need to be adjusted.
I then put all the covers back on the engine.
I did not have time to take pictures inside the cylinder. The camera arrived, but I wasn't able to get it working yet.
What should I double check before trying a compression test?
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Post by bob123456789 on Nov 23, 2016 21:16:39 GMT -5
Here is the latest. I'd appreciate feedback on if I am thinking about this correctly. I am planning to start this tomorrow morning.
If the chain skipped a tooth on the sprocket it is likely either a problem with the chain tensioner or the chain is stretched.
These are the steps I will follow:
1) Remove the cover over the rocker arm.
2) Feel the chain tension to see if it is loose.
3) Remove the chain tensioner to see if I can see any issues with it. If there are replace the tensioner. If not continue down this list.
4) Loosen the rocker arms so that I can loosen the chain enough to slip in one tooth.
(this video is close to the next few steps:
5) Slip the chain one tooth.
6) Tighten the rocker arms lightly.
7) Make sure that the timing marks on the cam sprocket is aligned with the mark on the housing. Check if in the hole above the oil fill plug the triangle mark on the flywheel is aligned with the mark on the housing. If not repeat steps 4 through 7 until both sets of marks are aligned.
8) Tighten the rocker arm bolts to the correct torque.
9) Check the intake valve clearance. If not correct adjust.
10) Check the exhaust valve clearance. If not correct adjust.
11) Put the chain tensioner back on.
12) Put the rocker arm cover back on.
13) Put the cam cover back on.
14) Put the cover on the hole just above the oil fill plug.
15) Use camera to inspect whether internal damage happened due the issue, cylinder, rings,....
16) Put the compression tester in the spark plug hole.
17) Put the battery back.
18) Test the compression.
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Post by bob123456789 on Nov 23, 2016 12:38:20 GMT -5
4950cycle. Seeing your post made me wonder the same thing. I just happened to have both valve covers off my Linhai 257 right now. Both the intake and the exhaust look like they have the ridge. The intake valve cover looks like it can be put on either way. I will be watching this very closely when I put it back together. I am guessing that having the ridge on the side away from the nut is correct. Am I right about that? Thanks very much for pointing this out.
RapidJim. Thanks for looking out for everyone else and putting this post up here a while ago!
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Post by bob123456789 on Nov 23, 2016 12:08:00 GMT -5
Rockynv.
Are these the correct steps?
I have the Cycle gear feeler gauge and the camera should get here tonight.
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psi now.
