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Post by blazejin on Apr 18, 2020 9:46:50 GMT -5
I was wrong, I ran the vin# and it is a 2002 Geely jl50qt-16 and I cant find anything on that, I know the cvt is belt drive, and every time I search I cant find nothing but 2005 and up. Why?
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Post by blazejin on Apr 18, 2020 6:07:25 GMT -5
Ok I found a 2005 GEELY JL 50QT 16 2 stroke. it is in very nice shape, 3000 on the miles, and can not find anything about it but the spec. I was told all it needed was a starter, so I ordered that. In the specs it says top speed is 45mph. Can anyone get me up to speed on this scooter. Value wise?, and will it do better than 45mph? lol, The plastics on it are fiberglass and it is made lots better than the china 4t scooters. I think it was a great 60$ spent.
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Post by blazejin on Apr 4, 2020 11:39:48 GMT -5
Cross the poles on solenoid, to see if it turns over. if not can be the starter. Check grounds. Can be a bad kill switch, and yes unhook the kill on the cdi and check that. I have had an issue with the ignition key switch being bad and cause the same prob. Does it crank with the kick ? if not check the fuse at battery.
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Post by blazejin on Jan 18, 2020 8:15:42 GMT -5
Well , does anyone know if there is a bolt on bracket for a 50cc to the 150cc conversion kit to swap over the 150 to 50 frame ? Was just checking so I will not have to go through all the cutting and welding with the engine and shock mounts. Also someone also stated that the 150cc engine has to be at a 10 degree angle to allow an oil splash that goes on in the engine to keep from burning it up ? I cant find anything on the mounts or the 10 degree thingy. other than that is there anything else I may be over looking that's going to put a turd in my punch bowl when doing this ?
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Post by blazejin on Jan 18, 2020 8:04:50 GMT -5
Ie all comes down to you get what you pay for, had a run of just plain out cheep bad rings.
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Post by blazejin on Jan 10, 2020 13:45:29 GMT -5
From what I have seen there are 3 to 4 types of stators, with 4, 6, or 8 poles on them, the most common on 50cc scooter is the 4 pole that has 3 wires yellow , green, and white. and two other wires that go to the pick up that sets above the stator that are black and blue some have a stripe on the wire but from what I have seen they are all pretty much close to color coded. count the wires on your harness that goes to stator and pick up and get a stator that has that many wires. and the colors should match also check for loose wiring.
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Post by blazejin on Jan 10, 2020 13:33:25 GMT -5
Ok it was not the pick up. I did change out the cdi and the coil, as I was pulling out the drive way it would not go hardly at all. lol both my tires were flat. (slow leaks) soooo I pumped em up ran to the store and back all went well, the real test will be Saturday morn. when I take it on a much longer ride. I did notice from where I had the stub nose breather on it with the hose going to a catch bottle that it had about 2 bottle caps of gas in it that got past the head thru the valve cover. witch makes me think when I go for the long ride it is going to happen again. I am going to take a back up carb with me, maybe I am looking at a type of flooding issue. I will post results. seems like I am narrowing it down though.
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Post by blazejin on Jan 6, 2020 17:09:32 GMT -5
Thanks, I will check the pick up as well. there is no pressure building up like with the long case, its just like after it gets hot going up hills it flutters very bad like it chatters out and loses power. with WOT and keeps on till I let off back down to idle. then after a few sec. I am able to go for about 20 yrds before it starts again. I can have it on the center stand with WOT without a load and it is fine. getting hot up hill with a load is the persisting problem. Thanks for the info on the pick up.
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Post by blazejin on Jan 6, 2020 15:34:27 GMT -5
This thing is crazy, switched engines back to short case, I used the same head and piston, just put new rings and it is doing the same thing. when its cold it runs fine un till I get a mile or 2 down the road and only on up hill after its hot it starts chattering losing power, I pull over it idles fine then I can take off about 20 yards and it starts it again. I changed plug, and the bell clutch came off the long case. I am going to change the bell clutch next weekend and the cdi and coil wire, if anyone has any thoughts about the situation please feel free to give me some feedback. thanks
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Post by blazejin on Jan 5, 2020 9:41:44 GMT -5
Ok well it seems there is nothing wrong with the oil pump, all that's left is to split the case and check the crank and chain, and all the oil ports. I did tare down the top end in it again and this time the center black oil ring was fine, it was the top compression ring that was stuck halfway on one side of the piston. I have pulled the engine and going back to my short case. I am starting to think that its just bad rings and or piston all together . Unless its like the 150cc to 50cc swap to where you have tp have the engine at a 10 degree pitch for the oil splach thing so it don't burn up. I don't see where it would matter, I will update next weekend as it is back to the drawing board.
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Post by blazejin on Dec 31, 2019 17:21:21 GMT -5
Well the cam needed replaced, and I did and that was not the problem, it did good till it heated up on my store run and started like it did be for lose of power and under throttle it was like the hotter it got the less throttle I can give, mainly going up hill with load. I babied it home and I guess I am going to open up the stator side and see what is going on in the oil pump area. Be for I started it I left the valve cover off and the oil was pumping hard coming out the center of the rocker set. if anyone else knows anything please let me know. I will try the oil pump in the AM Thanks . Also both time I tore it down it was the Black center oil ring that was burnt flush with the piston, the rest seemed fine
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Post by blazejin on Dec 31, 2019 14:18:32 GMT -5
Ok, I think I may have found the problem. The A9 cam I had got off Amazon was shipped in a bubble packet, I did not look over the sprocket I just checked the barrens on the cam and they were good. so when I took it apart this time I noticed some scaring on one of the lobes then seen that the sprocket was warped and missing a tooth. It had to have been damaged in shipping. Cause on 1st start up there was no strange sounds so it had to have been like that. It was in time , I don't see how that would cause the pressure build up as it may have been warped but no ports were blocked. I have it all back together, just have to torque it down and put oil in it and I shall see. I will post the end results.
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Post by blazejin on Dec 31, 2019 12:08:38 GMT -5
I know for a fact the oil was not overfilled, there was white smoke coming out pretty good from the valve cover hose so I don't think its that and the cam chain chamber is a big open port where the chain rides from cam to crank , how can that be stopped up ?
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Post by blazejin on Dec 31, 2019 11:21:45 GMT -5
Well here is something new for me. I got this 50cc with a long case engine, thought the person just installed the rings wrong so I tore it down and reinstalled the rings drove it to the store, and on the way it started bogging and losing power. I limped it home and it started white smoking from the valve cover hose and I was like ok the rings have had it. so the next day while it was cool I went out turned it over a few times and with no luck. I went to start tearing it down and took the dip stick out and it blew out oil in my face , Ha Ha lots of pressure . I thought it was the oil pump on the first go around so I left the valve cover off and cranked it and oil seemed to flow like a river. Why all the crankcase pressure. Thanks
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Post by blazejin on Nov 10, 2019 17:18:20 GMT -5
Thanks all, this scooter does not have the remote feature thanks 4 the reply , I found the culprit it is a bad ignition switch . Changed and is working now.
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